Removing engine

[Trout13]

Removing engine to do clutch and timing belt. Is it correct that the engine mounting bolts are one use? If so is there as set you can buy? Or how many do I need? Anything else I should consider when removing engine?

[georgen]

Removing engine to do clutch and timing belt. Is it correct that the engine mounting bolts are one use? If so is there as set you can buy? Or how many do I need? Anything else I should consider when removing engine?

I have had quite a few engines out over the years and never replaced engine mounting bolts with new ones. make sure you know what you are doing too.

[FatelError89]

Removed my engine for clutch and timing belt there is a thread on here I did I try and find it but i never used new engine mount bolts don`t see why you would need to

[RS6plusMTM]

From my bit of research i did before engine swap...

If they are sheer bolts then its recommend, but not a mandatory item to be replaced once removed. (I didn't replace them when I swapped my engine)

BUT they should be tightened with a torque wrench to the correct setting. If the tourque settings specify the new bolts (first use) to be torque setting + 90 degrees, then when reused they must only be set to the torque amount and NOT the extra 90 degree turn. (As the can cause them to snap)

It's recommend to replace them anyway for the 3rd reuse/tightening even if they visually look fine.

The bolts are designed to shear the heads off in the event of a front end accident to allow the engine and gearbox to fold underneath the car to prevent them from entering the passenger compartment.

A common mistake made with these mounts is to tighten them to torque with an air gun - this eventually pops the head off because they have been overtightened and the end result is they break.

On high hp/torque cars is recommended to replace them each time as torque twist of the engine can snap the sheer bolts if they have been over or under torqued. However as a Lupo doesn't have the power to pull the skin of a rice pudding I would think this would not be a issue unless it's running a 1.9tdi conversion

[grazo22]

From my bit of research i did before engine swap...

If they are sheer bolts then its recommend, but not a mandatory item to be replaced once removed. (I didn't replace them when I swapped my engine)

BUT they should be tightened with a torque wrench to the correct setting. If the tourque settings specify the new bolts (first use) to be torque setting + 90 degrees, then when reused they must only be set to the torque amount and NOT the extra 90 degree turn. (As the can cause them to snap)

It's recommend to replace them anyway for the 3rd reuse/tightening even if they visually look fine.

The bolts are designed to shear the heads off in the event of a front end accident to allow the engine and gearbox to fold underneath the car to prevent them from entering the passenger compartment.

A common mistake made with these mounts is to tighten them to torque with an air gun - this eventually pops the head off because they have been overtightened and the end result is they break.

On high hp/torque cars is recommended to replace them each time as torque twist of the engine can snap the sheer bolts if they have been over or under torqued. However as a Lupo doesn't have the power to pull the skin of a rice pudding I would think this would not be a issue unless it's running a 1.9tdi conversion

Hey you know what you're on about. I'm fairly certain they aren't stretch bolts however I believe they are suppose to be done to a correct torque then turn through 90 or 180deg, I can check if you want but I'm having computer melt down at the moment!!

I've taken my engine out 3 times now (not for fun), Here's a list of things I did to do it.

Remove the following in this order which is probably right but working from memory

• inner arch liners
  
• top grill surround with grill
  
• lighting and radiator electrical plugs
  
• drain coolant from bottom hose (trying to save it)
  
• remove lower half of bumper
  
• take out headlight (don't break any lugs because that's just bad)
  
• front cross member
  
• unbolt front panel
  
• rip it off.
  

Now on to engine

• fuel lines
  
• exhaust downpipe and cat
  
• dog bone mount
  
• battery
  
• battery tray
  
• disconnect all wiring on engine
  
• take airbox off for easier access to everything and extra light
  
• gear linkage on the back noting where it is on the selector with the slot, don't loose the small clip
  
• drive shafts, m8 12 spline needed
  
• air lines, heater matrix pipes
  
• powersteering pipe
  
• any thing which holds the engine to the car
  
• They last but not least, gearbox and engine mount (do the 1 bolt which will let it free, no need to do the others)
  

Then you should be able to lift her out have one of these first

Then because you hate doing this on Christmas Eve do this

They get on with it

Edited August 4, 2012 by grazo22

[Rich]

I took an engine out tonight and I don't plan to replace anything.

[georgen]

I took an engine out tonight and I don't plan to replace anything.

Not even the engine ????????????????????

[Trout13]

Did the timing belt/clutch at weekend, didnt take the front of the car off, lifted engine out, left gearbox in place. Took 2 of us ~ 5 hours for total job. My mate is a mechanic and had all the right equipment which makes all the difference. Clutch so much better, but still got stiff gears, think ill have to replace linkage.