Trout13

Im not sure its definitively meant to be in the middle thats why it has the scope to be moved depending on the exact position of the gearbox. Ill try putting gearbox into neutral, undoing A + B get somone to hold the gear lever in neutral and retighten. Let you know if it improves.

Just had my gearbox replaced but the changing gears is not smooth. The guy that changed the gearbox just reconnected the the two (a+ linkage points as he found them so I think it is a gear linkage adjustment problem. I do not have the locking jig but wondered if anyone knows what postion the gearlever needs to be locked in before tightening the linkage? My plan is to loosen off A and B and get somone to hold the lever in roughly the right place before retightening. Anyone had any experience carrying out this adjustment? More info via link below http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085/gearbox_mechanicsoperation_constructiondiff./servicing_selector_mechanism_%28cable_selector_mechanism%29/adjusting_gear_selector_mechanism_%28cable_control_gear_selection%29/

While reversing my son clipped a wheelie bin and damaged the drivers mirror, the glass and the outer casing are fine it is just sitting loosely on a spindle and slides up and down freely. Does anyone know what I need to buy to repair it. Regards Trout13

I bought a vag com cable and downloaded the free lite version wil I able to do it with this?

Defcon, could you give me a bit more detail of whats involved, Im not sure my mates machine has the functionality required. Cheers

I know this has been done to death but I still cannot get to the bottom of the cause. I have fitted a new throttle body which kept it off for a few days. My pals generic vagcom still says bank 1 running lean and the Longft sits at -65% when idling, Im not sure if this is correct or not but doesnt seem right to me. I have sprayed for around the manifold etc looking for leaks but nothing. Anyone any ideas?

This is not the gear linkage on the lupo 1.4, I think its the arosa. Definetly no spring loaded tensioners on mine. Thanks anyway Cheers Trout13

My gear change is very stiff (clutch and pedal box done). I found a method on ELSA for adjusting the linkage mechanism but you need a 3192 gear stick jig. Is there any way of making the adjustment without the jig. Is the jig just holding the gearstick in neutral or what?? Anyone manged to adjust successfully without the jig? Cheers Trout13

Lupo 2001 1.4 16V I need to replace the sealing plug that the vacumn hose goes into but the problem is you can only get a new sealing plug by buying a new servo (I checked with lupoboy). Does anyone know what size of grommet/seal is required. It is important to get it exactly right as any leaks affect the brakes. When sourcing a replacement throttle body what numbers must match, there are 3 lines of numbers on it (see below)? 408.238/321/003 036 133 062B 01.02.2 III Any help appreciated

Did the timing belt/clutch at weekend, didnt take the front of the car off, lifted engine out, left gearbox in place. Took 2 of us ~ 5 hours for total job. My mate is a mechanic and had all the right equipment which makes all the difference. Clutch so much better, but still got stiff gears, think ill have to replace linkage.

Removing engine to do clutch and timing belt. Is it correct that the engine mounting bolts are one use? If so is there as set you can buy? Or how many do I need? Anything else I should consider when removing engine?

Found out.what the problem was , both drain holes on either side of the scuttle panel were block so all the water coming down the windscreen was collecting in the space and the volume was so much that it got high enough to get in the the intake grill for the fan heater and flooded into the passenger side. Took off the grill 3 screws then the air intake grill Cleared the drain holes with an outer bike cable. Some water was still collected at the bottom of the air intake so I used a screwdriver to puncture a hole in the plastic to let the water drain away . Just have to dry the car out now!!!!

After reviewing previous posts about the same problem I am convinced it is a blocked scuttle panel and also there is a drain form the heater which can be accessed via a rubber grommet in footwell. How do you go about cleaning the drain holes in the scuttle panel?

My daughter has managed to drive through some flooded roads and the results is 6 inches of water in the passenger side of the car. I have bailed as much as I can and I am soaking up remainder with some towels. The heater is now sounding a bit dodgy, is there any way the water could have got into the system. Any ideas where the water would have got in? Where is the scuttle panel and could that be the cause of the problem, if so what do ineed to do to sort it?

Thanks for all the advice, just orderd the parts, pick them up today. sdi the link never worked?

I am planning on changing the discs/pads on my 1.4 Lupo(Y). A couple of questions What size are the bolts that hold the caliper on and are they normal nuts or hex nuts. I heared they were 10mm? Would you normally loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before resetting pistons? Where is the copper grease meant to be applied? Anything else I should know before starting?

My pal has cleared the fault a few times but im not sure he reset adaptations. It is not a VAG computer he uses but a generic/andriod one that does various makes. Will he be able to reset adaptations using this do you think? So when you clear the fault code it does not reset to a default setting? I have the car for about 1 1/2 years, fault started about 9 months ago.

Replaced the lamda sensor before the cat, didnt make any difference. The computer suggest they are both working fine.

I read on the web it may be the MAP sensor causing my problem, but it is not producing a fault code. Could it still be malfunctioning and not produce a fault code?

Cheers for that Ill give it a go at the weekend. Dont think it will be as easy trying to do that under the car.

Got a 2001 1.4L lupo but it has a very heavy gearbox. Had the pedal box done recently and they said the clutch would need done at some point as it is quite heavy. Would this cause the stiff/heavy gear box. It is stiff in all gears and they do not seem very positive when you select them. Is the problem more likely to be the two gear linkage cables? How easy is it to replace the gear linkage cables and how much do they cost. If it is not too much I would replace them first to see if that solved the problem before going to the expense of doing the clutch. Any help appreciated Trout13

The epc light is on all the time. Pal who is a mechanic checked the codes P0171/P1151 which bascially say running far too lean. He checked for any leaks and cleaned the throttle body and valve. He couldnt find any leaks and the problem is still there. I have searched previous threads on here but nobody seems to have got an answer. Has anybody ever got to the bottom of this problem? Getting desperate Trout13

New pedal box made a huge difference, bite point is where it should be, no grinding into gears etc. Clutch still heavy but It feels like a clutch again.

Got the box changed today, daughter away to collect the car, let you know how the clutch feels later.

it was indeed the pedal box but also a heavy clutch. My mate who would normally fix it is on holiday so £150.05 + vat to supply and fit pedal box from a small garage. £320 for clutch so told them that I will put up with a heavy clutch for the time being. Reasonable prices???