Trout13

Im not sure its definitively meant to be in the middle thats why it has the scope to be moved depending on the exact position of the gearbox. Ill try putting gearbox into neutral, undoing A + B get somone to hold the gear lever in neutral and retighten. Let you know if it improves.

Just had my gearbox replaced but the changing gears is not smooth. The guy that changed the gearbox just reconnected the the two (a+ linkage points as he found them so I think it is a gear linkage adjustment problem. I do not have the locking jig but wondered if anyone knows what postion the gearlever needs to be locked in before tightening the linkage? My plan is to loosen off A and B and get somone to hold the lever in roughly the right place before retightening. Anyone had any experience carrying out this adjustment? More info via link below http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085/gearbox_mechanicsoperation_constructiondiff./servicing_selector_mechanism_%28cable_selector_mechanism%29/adjusting_gear_selector_mechanism_%28cable_control_gear_selection%29/

While reversing my son clipped a wheelie bin and damaged the drivers mirror, the glass and the outer casing are fine it is just sitting loosely on a spindle and slides up and down freely. Does anyone know what I need to buy to repair it. Regards Trout13

I bought a vag com cable and downloaded the free lite version wil I able to do it with this?

Defcon, could you give me a bit more detail of whats involved, Im not sure my mates machine has the functionality required. Cheers

I know this has been done to death but I still cannot get to the bottom of the cause. I have fitted a new throttle body which kept it off for a few days. My pals generic vagcom still says bank 1 running lean and the Longft sits at -65% when idling, Im not sure if this is correct or not but doesnt seem right to me. I have sprayed for around the manifold etc looking for leaks but nothing. Anyone any ideas?

This is not the gear linkage on the lupo 1.4, I think its the arosa. Definetly no spring loaded tensioners on mine. Thanks anyway Cheers Trout13

My gear change is very stiff (clutch and pedal box done). I found a method on ELSA for adjusting the linkage mechanism but you need a 3192 gear stick jig. Is there any way of making the adjustment without the jig. Is the jig just holding the gearstick in neutral or what?? Anyone manged to adjust successfully without the jig? Cheers Trout13

Lupo 2001 1.4 16V I need to replace the sealing plug that the vacumn hose goes into but the problem is you can only get a new sealing plug by buying a new servo (I checked with lupoboy). Does anyone know what size of grommet/seal is required. It is important to get it exactly right as any leaks affect the brakes. When sourcing a replacement throttle body what numbers must match, there are 3 lines of numbers on it (see below)? 408.238/321/003 036 133 062B 01.02.2 III Any help appreciated

Did the timing belt/clutch at weekend, didnt take the front of the car off, lifted engine out, left gearbox in place. Took 2 of us ~ 5 hours for total job. My mate is a mechanic and had all the right equipment which makes all the difference. Clutch so much better, but still got stiff gears, think ill have to replace linkage.

Removing engine to do clutch and timing belt. Is it correct that the engine mounting bolts are one use? If so is there as set you can buy? Or how many do I need? Anything else I should consider when removing engine?

Found out.what the problem was , both drain holes on either side of the scuttle panel were block so all the water coming down the windscreen was collecting in the space and the volume was so much that it got high enough to get in the the intake grill for the fan heater and flooded into the passenger side. Took off the grill 3 screws then the air intake grill Cleared the drain holes with an outer bike cable. Some water was still collected at the bottom of the air intake so I used a screwdriver to puncture a hole in the plastic to let the water drain away . Just have to dry the car out now!!!!

After reviewing previous posts about the same problem I am convinced it is a blocked scuttle panel and also there is a drain form the heater which can be accessed via a rubber grommet in footwell. How do you go about cleaning the drain holes in the scuttle panel?

My daughter has managed to drive through some flooded roads and the results is 6 inches of water in the passenger side of the car. I have bailed as much as I can and I am soaking up remainder with some towels. The heater is now sounding a bit dodgy, is there any way the water could have got into the system. Any ideas where the water would have got in? Where is the scuttle panel and could that be the cause of the problem, if so what do ineed to do to sort it?

Thanks for all the advice, just orderd the parts, pick them up today. sdi the link never worked?