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Broken/dodgey MAF on TDI


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Need to get it on the diagnostic matey, try and find someone local to you with vagcom, theres a list of users on seatenthusiasts. There is a test on tdiclub.com which uses vagcom to test the maf so id give that a go aswell as scanning for any faults.

As Al said it could be anything, i had to have both the above mentioned valves replace to cure my issues.

Lee.

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I had the MAF go on the Passat, but you really need to plug VAGCOM in to confirm it. Strangely, mine was so FUBAR'd that it actually ran better with the MAF disconnected! Lol.

Don't know if the Lupo's the same, but I actually went for a MAF from a C-class Merc which was a better make and much much cheaper than VW's one. It's a straight swap. Just not sure that there'll be an alternative for the Lupo though.

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Definately check it on VAGCOM, I made the same mistake with my TDI & bought a new MAF only to find out it was actaully the N75 valve that ws faulty! (Got a working MAF here if it is faulty though).

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Not neccessarily, I disconnected mine & it didn't really make any difference + it was tested as being 100% ok. I dont think the MAF has as much of an effect on diesel engines as it would on a petrol engine. The only way to be sure is to get it on VAGCOM.

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Well when disconnected nothing happens really.

But what about Pierburg units that from Mercedes that i keep hearing are more reliable? Is this true, if so can i have some part numbers and more details incase my MAF needs replacing.

Cheers!

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usually when the MAF goes, there is a lack of power and the engine doesn't rev much over 3000 rpm.

in the last year or so, the cost of MAF's have come right down! they retail around ÂŁ88ish from vw

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usually when the MAF goes, there is a lack of power and the engine doesn't rev much over 3000 rpm.

in the last year or so, the cost of MAF's have come right down! they retail around ÂŁ88ish from vw

ÂŁ88 for a new one?? As its around ÂŁ80 for an exchanged item ohmy.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":o" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" />

The engine still revs to 4800 rpm (diesel) but its slow........... mad.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":angry:" border="0" alt="mad.gif" />

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ÂŁ88 for a new one?? As its around ÂŁ80 for an exchanged item ohmy.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":o" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" />

The engine still revs to 4800 rpm (diesel) but its slow........... mad.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":angry:" border="0" alt="mad.gif" />

most are new units now rather than exchange ones! if the part number has an 'X' on the end of it, its an exchange unit. and yes, somewhere between ÂŁ80-ÂŁ90 for those!

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Well when disconnected nothing happens really.

But what about Pierburg units that from Mercedes that i keep hearing are more reliable? Is this true, if so can i have some part numbers and more details incase my MAF needs replacing.

Cheers!

It is true. VW used to use Pierburg but then went to Bosch (am I right there?) cos they were cheaper. And guess what - suddenly they start getting problems, which they won't admit to. Surprisingly enough, I believe they've now gone back to the Pierburg ones.

However, I think you may struggle to get a Merc version of the Lupo one. Which is a shame, cos they're masses cheaper!!

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GermanFrenchSweedish have part number:

18785B: AIR MASS METER-EXCHANGE @ ÂŁ58 but for a 1.2 TDI-is this the same for a 1.4 TDI?

but they also list

18789C: AIR MASS SENSOR PROBE-PIERBURG REPLACEMENT FOR MOST BOSCH AIR MASS METERS @ ÂŁ39

So if my MAF is faulty, is it only the probe that is wrong, therefore could I simply just use the new Pierburg probe replacement in the Bosch housing, which will give me a cheaper and more reliable repair? sad.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

I thought the MAF was just a sensor probe in a plastic housing, or is there more??? confused.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" />

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It's often sold as the whole assembly (ie tube with the sensor mounted in it). On the Passat, the Pierburg is a slight interference fit (just the clip) but will basically go straight in. I changeed mine in the MB car park!

And for those who think it makes little difference - before I changed Hannah's Lupo would pull away from me, even uphill, so I must have been down a good 20-30 hp I reckon. You can imagine the smile on my face when I changed it and was back to full power!!

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Well suprise suprise! My MAF is dodgey blush.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" />

So looks like a new one is on the way. Still not sure about the pierburg jobbies though, as the mechanic said they may not be set up for VW and may fluctuate to the Bosch ones

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Have you removed the maf just to check that it doesnt need cleaning? As that could save you some money smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?C=SEO&...&ModuleNo=28994

This is meant to be ideal for cleaning them smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Lee.

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Have you removed the maf just to check that it doesnt need cleaning? As that could save you some money smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?C=SEO&...&ModuleNo=28994

This is meant to be ideal for cleaning them smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Lee.

My MAF does look dirty. But how can you distinguish between a broken one and a dirty one?

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Got the spray from a mate, but not sure how to get the mesh grills off from the MAF. Anyway gave it a couple of sprays and left it to dry. Will give it a test later. But still in two minds if to replace the MAF as it seems to be running better than people say it should if it had a faulty MAF.

Is there anything else people can think that might not appear on VAG COM that can affect turbo performance? I'm getting the turbo hoses checked, and don't suspect the EGR to be clogged much at 30K and seemed ok when i looked at it.

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On top of the maf their are two security star bit screws, get the right peice for them and the actualy maf wire itself will come out, dont touch it though, then spray it with that stuff and let it dry and pop it back on smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Lee.

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The best solution is to remove the element & soak it in K&N filter cleaner overnight, if that doesn't work I've got a spare working one you can have for ÂŁ25 wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

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The best solution is to remove the element & soak it in K&N filter cleaner overnight, if that doesn't work I've got a spare working one you can have for ÂŁ25 wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

When you say 'working' is it 100% functional? As mine works (kinda) but not 100% confused.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" />

Well i'm going to get the mechanic to run VAG COM on the MAF to check the readings as the car seems a tiny bit better after a clean (hard to tell really!)

I'll contact you on Tuesday if i need the part! biggrin.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

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Yep its fully functional I put a new one on before testing it was ok with VAGCOM, I wont be making that mistake again blush.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" />

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