MrBiscuit Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 Just got cruise control working on my Arosa. (Is this the first?)Had been looking around for nearly a year to see if it could be done (since I got the car), saw that it had been done on an Audi A2 1.4 TDI, which gave me hope, then found this Link to a german forum, where someone had fitted it to a Polo 6N2 1.4TDI, he gave pin connections for running wires to the ECU.Connected the wires to the ECU (not for the faint hearted), enabled cruise using vag-com, firstly just ran the wires out the bonnet in the drivers door connected to some switches, tested on a quick drive, and it worked.Now have cables run through the bulkhead, and decided not to fit the proper stalk, as I didn't want to mess with the airbag, so I fitted two push switches into one of the blank switch plates, one for set, and one for resume, cruise I leave permanently switched on, which is what I think all cruise users do anyway.For info my Arosa is a 2003 1.4TDI and the ECU type is 045 906 019 T this can be read from VAG-COM or it is stamped on the label on the top of the ECU which is in the Plenum chamber (think its called that) the space between engine compartment & windscreen, next to the pollen filter, there's a panel that can be removed with three screws.The hardest part was connecting wires to the ECU, as access is restricted, and its a complicated socket to undo and take apart (the larger of the two on the LHS).I disconnected the battery -Ve at all times whilst soldering and making connections.Whilst I won't say this will work for all rosas, it does for the TDI with the above ECU and build date around 2003.Love the Arosa, great car, specialy that engine. (want it re-mapped though, looking for DIY solution) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 (edited) Well done mate sounds good! Oh, welcome to the forum too, nice to see another TDI! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Edited June 27, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaPD Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 Well done mate sounds good! Oh, welcome to the forum too, nice to see another TDI! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />Ditto, nice job well done and welcome to the party bud. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeky tdi Posted June 27, 2006 Report Share Posted June 27, 2006 Yeah us Arosa tdi's are getting common now, hehe!Top job though getting it working style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />Lee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Thanks Peeps.Great forum btw, some very knowledgeable people here, with some nice looking motors.To further clarify the connections, as the german instructions weren't that clear even if you spreken ze deutch, which I don't, they are as follows.1. (white) ECU 46 cruise on/off2. (Blue) ECU 45 Resume3. (red) ECU 44 Set4. (Black) ECU 14 Enable cruise (& connect to ignition 12V for stalk)The colours of course are arbitrary, 1 to 4 is the connection to the proper stalk control if required.Enable & on/off I connected to 12V permanently (ignition switched), set & resume push switches are momentary connections to 12V.All the connections can be tested in VAG COM by reading measuring block 022 in the enging controller (ECU)00000X Enable cruise 0000X0 Cruise on/off000X00 Set00X000 ResumeOnce enable & on/off are connected to 12V, a read of block 006 RHS box value shows a 1.0 indicating cruise is active.However I must say there is no guarantee this will work for all Aosas, & if you aren't confident taking apart fiddly connectors to the ECU & soldering wires then I'd give it a miss. I was only 50% that it might work on mine, in fact I took the connectors apart twice, cos I forgot pin 14, broke one of the clips to the ECU, (now replaced both). Its a lot of effort if it doesn't work, but I was chuffed to get it working, as I do some long journeys.Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 This is something ive always wanted on mine and was tempted when my uncle fitted it to his octavia vrs and loved it Is it fully working cruise control?How accurate is it at keeping you at speed? like 25-30 through cameras?what do you reckon for a 1.4 53 reg arosa? never seen one or a polo fitted but would be nicethanks in advancewayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 This is something ive always wanted on mine and was tempted when my uncle fitted it to his octavia vrs and loved it Is it fully working cruise control?How accurate is it at keeping you at speed? like 25-30 through cameras?what do you reckon for a 1.4 53 reg arosa? never seen one or a polo fitted but would be nicethanks in advancewayneYep its fully working cruise control, set & resume, buttons, then hold set to decelerate hold resume to accelerate, exactly as normal functions on golf, fabia, octavia etc.It is very accurate, to within 1-2 mph normally less than 1, as long as you are on level or uphill, on a downhill slope, speed can increase. I have a digital speedo in my car as it was an ex driving instructor car, and this shows the speed very accurately to a tenth of an mph.I reckon the 1.4 16v Arosa's ECU may support cruise, as the Polo with that engine fitted does have cruise as an option. (now anyway).I have seen a post on a forum questioning cruise compatibility, and a poster says he has fitted cruise to a Polo 1.4 sport (VW Polo 9N (2003) model) so if the engines are similar, then it may be possible. I wouldn't like to say the pin connections are the same though.Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 thanks very much for the reply style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> mines the 1.4 8v engine non sport but its something im definately going to look intothankyouwayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDog Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 Well done, I was half way through doing same mod on mine when I found your post (was wondering if I was the first - clearly not!). You've inspired me to finish it - I know now its possible style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> . I do 72miles a day in my TDI on fast roads. Tried cruise in a hire car and hankered after it ever since. What finally made me decide to do it was 3 miles of those bleedin' "average speed check" cameras just got fitted, and cruise control will keep me under the speed limit worry-free.So far I used VAG-COM and enabled cruise with 11463 but wasn't convinced the ECU had the right code as VAG-COM 006 readout didn't mention cruise under the RHS box (like when I enabled cruise in my missus' Audi 80 TDI), but I guess that's just VAG-COM not the ECU. VAG-COM clutch and brake switch signalling is OK. Also I made up a little switch box and fitted it under the dash by my knee (maybe too close....)Wondering how you soldered to the ECU? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> Did you poke wires through the plug holes and solder direct to the ECU pins? I pulled the plugs out but can't see the terminals so I thought I'd need to get some of the right crimp terminals which I guess click into the purple housing. Helpful parts geezer at Coupers in St Albans says they have a repair kit of yellow wires ready-crimped onto terminals and I'll pursue that before getting my soldering iron out.You mentioned the right stalk - I didn't know anything compatible existed, hence my DIY switch box. Do you have a part number or model its off, 'cos I thought the Polo was different? I looked at a VW Caravelle cruise stalk, seems similar without removing the cowling, these come up on Ebay but the seller said it wouldn't fit.Matt, St Albans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardaft Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 Well done, I was half way through doing same mod on mine when I found your post (was wondering if I was the first - clearly not!). You've inspired me to finish it - I know now its possible style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> . I do 72miles a day in my TDI on fast roads. Tried cruise in a hire car and hankered after it ever since. What finally made me decide to do it was 3 miles of those bleedin' "average speed check" cameras just got fitted, and cruise control will keep me under the speed limit worry-free.So far I used VAG-COM and enabled cruise with 11463 but wasn't convinced the ECU had the right code as VAG-COM 006 readout didn't mention cruise under the RHS box (like when I enabled cruise in my missus' Audi 80 TDI), but I guess that's just VAG-COM not the ECU. VAG-COM clutch and brake switch signalling is OK. Also I made up a little switch box and fitted it under the dash by my knee (maybe too close....)Wondering how you soldered to the ECU? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> Did you poke wires through the plug holes and solder direct to the ECU pins? I pulled the plugs out but can't see the terminals so I thought I'd need to get some of the right crimp terminals which I guess click into the purple housing. Helpful parts geezer at Coupers in St Albans says they have a repair kit of yellow wires ready-crimped onto terminals and I'll pursue that before getting my soldering iron out.You mentioned the right stalk - I didn't know anything compatible existed, hence my DIY switch box. Do you have a part number or model its off, 'cos I thought the Polo was different? I looked at a VW Caravelle cruise stalk, seems similar without removing the cowling, these come up on Ebay but the seller said it wouldn't fit.Matt, St AlbansId like cruise on mine also, i do about 60-70 miles a day and the cruise would be a big bonus.Sounds too complicated to me, im not very technical minded and i wouldnt even know where to start.Our vw caravelle didnt have cruise when we bought it, all we did was buy the left indcator stalk with the cruise button on, plugged the wires into a already existing socet and had it programmed at vw and job done. If it was that easy i would defo have a go, but it isnt style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> .Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 (edited) Wondering how you soldered to the ECU? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> Did you poke wires through the plug holes and solder direct to the ECU pins? I pulled the plugs out but can't see the terminals so I thought I'd need to get some of the right crimp terminals which I guess click into the purple housing. Helpful parts geezer at Coupers in St Albans says they have a repair kit of yellow wires ready-crimped onto terminals and I'll pursue that before getting my soldering iron out.You mentioned the right stalk - I didn't know anything compatible existed, hence my DIY switch box. Do you have a part number or model its off, 'cos I thought the Polo was different? I looked at a VW Caravelle cruise stalk, seems similar without removing the cowling, these come up on Ebay but the seller said it wouldn't fit.Matt, St AlbansYou have to take the plug apart, there is some pictures of similar looking connector here on a fabia cruise fitting guide. (not that useful for seeing the connectors, as this guy didn't go that far)I think you have to remove the pink separator between the banks of connectors (seen in photo), as well as the two long locking pins (pink? plastic one for each connector bank) from one end of the plug, they are T shaped I think. Then pull gently on the wires and a whole bank of connectors comes up & out.There are two 32pins each? they have a rubber seal around the top of them, through which each wire comes through its own hole.Then use a sharp instrument (i used a scalpel) to poke against a small retaining clip that holds each spade terminal in. ( from the front from memory there is a hole for each terminal) then the terminal can be slid out upwards using the sharp instrument.Solder on correct length of wire that will reach into interior, feed all the wire back thru rubber seal on plug, pull out the retaining clip on spade terminal that may have been pushed too far back in during removal, then push terminal back in place, it should lock back in. There are plenty of spare spade terminals to practice on as they are all fitted, but 25% or more are not used. I destroyed one learning how to get them out.Its very fiddly and took me a while.For bulkhead cable entry, there is a large rubber blanking grommet near the clutch master cylinder.Perhaps there is a stalk that would fit, maybe an early golf model. I could be wrong though, the loop Arosa stalks have big bend in them at the column.I just fitted a couple of push switches into a spare switch blank.The cruise enabled bit 1 didn't show up in vag-com until pin 14 is connected to +12v ( & maybe 46 as well)Sorry if its a bit vague, but it was a few months back, & I've drunk lots of beer since then. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> I do love my cruise though.Phil Edited October 9, 2006 by MrBiscuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDog Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 You have to take the plug apart, there is some pictures of similar looking connector here on a fabia cruise fitting guide. (not that useful for seeing the connectors, as this guy didn't go that far)I think you have to remove the pink separator between the banks of connectors (seen in photo), as well as the two long locking pins (pink? plastic one for each connector bank) from one end of the plug, they are T shaped I think. Then pull gently on the wires and a whole bank of connectors comes up & out.There are two 32pins each? they have a rubber seal around the top of them, through which each wire comes through its own hole.Then use a sharp instrument (i used a scalpel) to poke against a small retaining clip that holds each spade terminal in. ( from the front from memory there is a hole for each terminal) then the terminal can be slid out upwards using the sharp instrument.Solder on correct length of wire that will reach into interior, feed all the wire back thru rubber seal on plug, pull out the retaining clip on spade terminal that may have been pushed too far back in during removal, then push terminal back in place, it should lock back in. There are plenty of spare spade terminals to practice on as they are all fitted, but 25% or more are not used. I destroyed one learning how to get them out.Its very fiddly and took me a while.For bulkhead cable entry, there is a large rubber blanking grommet near the clutch master cylinder.Perhaps there is a stalk that would fit, maybe an early golf model. I could be wrong though, the loop Arosa stalks have big bend in them at the column.I just fitted a couple of push switches into a spare switch blank.The cruise enabled bit 1 didn't show up in vag-com until pin 14 is connected to +12v ( & maybe 46 as well)Sorry if its a bit vague, but it was a few months back, & I've drunk lots of beer since then. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> I do love my cruise though.PhilMany thanks for the clarifications. I'll report back when its working style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Many thanks for the clarifications. I'll report back when its working style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> MattGood luck.My wife paid £163 to have this as an option on her polo.It felt good to get it going on my Arosa for 2hrs tinkering (maybe more) and £3 materials.1st time I didnt connect pin 14 (for some reason I didnt think it necessary style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" /> ) and when I pushed the switches hanging thru the window on the first test drive nothing happened, next time round when all was connected, and it worked, there was some punching air moments.I think both banks need to be taken out to complete the mod, as 14 is in one bank, and the others 46 etc are in the other.It was sphincter clenching at times, especially when my electric windows one touch didnt work after the mods, I thought I'd shagged the ECU, then I read the manual, and they need "re-training" after a battery disconnect.As for cruise, on a long journey, I find sub 70mph is best, as you do little overtaking, and its very stress free, you could read the paper while driving style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> , and the MPG returns are impressive my best is 76. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":o" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" /> With the connector, take your time & try not to lose it like I did with the first terminal, I ripped it out with pliers just to see what it liiked like.The major probelm I found was the restricted access, as the cable length to that connector does not allow you to pull it out into the engine bay and work in any comfort.Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigzâ„¢ Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Fantastic work mate.Going to have to remember this thread style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />Fancy crusie control on the Polo style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 Still meaning to do this on my arosa or at least look at it, but was talking to my uncle with the oictavia the other day and he still thinks that its unlikely seat/vw would have put the option into the ecu and not had the wires conneected to it and behind the dash already even if already used for something else?assuming the terminals you soldered onto already had wires connected? just seems odd as it would mean more work for them as a manufacturer if they wanted to fit it to the lupo gti/polo gtireally got to get off my ass and get this one done style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />thanks in advance again youve already helped majorly alreadywayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattEB Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 Anyone done this on a 02 Loop GTi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDog Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 Hey, Phil (Mr Biscuit) I too got cruise control working today style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> ta for all the hints on that connector! So far only been for a 40mph pootle round the block but will take it up the A1 tomorrow for a shake-down. It was a GREAT feeling pushing SET for the first time, taking my foot off the accelerator and realising after a couple of seconds that I wasn't slowing down. I put my switch box just under the "AROSA" lettering below the cup holders. Doesn't look too much of an abortion IMHO, but a pukka stalk would be much better.Only thing I butchered was: snapped a large chunk off the plastic moulding that tops off the plenum style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":doh:" border="0" alt="doh.gif" /> I was pulling the thing up hoping to wedge a bit of wood under it to give room to work and suddenly snap - end of problem! Luckily doesn't show from outside with the bonnet shut. I expect I'll get my glue gun out tomorrow. Anyhow, having snapped the thing off, that made it easy to take clear photos, so I'll put together a series with some suitable words. Is there a way to post a pdf here, or what's the best way? (I've not looked yet)I used the small grommet above the clutch pedal assembly to feed the 4 wires (in a sleeve) through the bulkhead. Cutting a cross in the grommet with a Stanley knife worked a treat. I used the same technique to feed the wires through the large rectangular loom grommet near the brake fluid reservoir, which gets you into the plenum. After making the connections, I was careful to tie the wires with cable ties to the loom and avoid anything getting entangled with the wiper mechanism. I took the switched live feed from the white and yellow wire on the upper brake switch (the one for the cruise) as that seemed to match the way the Audi A2 TDI does it on ELSAWIN.I was quite surprised at the contact design at the ecu - they are not even crimped! The contacts are "IDC" or insulation displacement connectors, the insulated wires are just pushed into some tight fitting sharp jaws in the contacts, these cut the insulation and bite into the conductors. I've always thought of IDC as sh*te, bearly deserving of the name "connector". Naturally I followed the plan and soldered the wires in good n proper.Cost has been £10.98 for a cable off Ebay to connect the diagnostic port to USB on my wife's laptop and about another £5 on bits. For anyone contemplating going the same route: The demo (free) version of VAG-COM lets you enable cruise in the ECU no probs.Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Hey, Phil (Mr Biscuit) I too got cruise control working today style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> ta for all the hints on that connector! So far only been for a 40mph pootle round the block but will take it up the A1 tomorrow for a shake-down. It was a GREAT feeling pushing SET for the first time, taking my foot off the accelerator and realising after a couple of seconds that I wasn't slowing down. I put my switch box just under the "AROSA" lettering below the cup holders. Doesn't look too much of an abortion IMHO, but a pukka stalk would be much better.Only thing I butchered was: snapped a large chunk off the plastic moulding that tops off the plenum style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":doh:" border="0" alt="doh.gif" /> I was pulling the thing up hoping to wedge a bit of wood under it to give room to work and suddenly snap - end of problem! Luckily doesn't show from outside with the bonnet shut. I expect I'll get my glue gun out tomorrow. Anyhow, having snapped the thing off, that made it easy to take clear photos, so I'll put together a series with some suitable words. Is there a way to post a pdf here, or what's the best way? (I've not looked yet)I used the small grommet above the clutch pedal assembly to feed the 4 wires (in a sleeve) through the bulkhead. Cutting a cross in the grommet with a Stanley knife worked a treat. I used the same technique to feed the wires through the large rectangular loom grommet near the brake fluid reservoir, which gets you into the plenum. After making the connections, I was careful to tie the wires with cable ties to the loom and avoid anything getting entangled with the wiper mechanism. I took the switched live feed from the white and yellow wire on the upper brake switch (the one for the cruise) as that seemed to match the way the Audi A2 TDI does it on ELSAWIN.I was quite surprised at the contact design at the ecu - they are not even crimped! The contacts are "IDC" or insulation displacement connectors, the insulated wires are just pushed into some tight fitting sharp jaws in the contacts, these cut the insulation and bite into the conductors. I've always thought of IDC as sh*te, bearly deserving of the name "connector". Naturally I followed the plan and soldered the wires in good n proper.Cost has been £10.98 for a cable off Ebay to connect the diagnostic port to USB on my wife's laptop and about another £5 on bits. For anyone contemplating going the same route: The demo (free) version of VAG-COM lets you enable cruise in the ECU no probs.Mattso them cheap usb cables actually work style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":o" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" /> and where can i get a free Vag com program from then?idealy i want to get the usb cable and vag com program and check i can get it to switch the cruise on as im using a totally different ecu and engine to all the other examples i have seen here style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" /> so wary and then idealy i want a stalk for it so im thinking of getting an octavia stalk which are apparently the same as ford galaxy stalks as may know of someone with one and then wire that inso to clarify the following is needed-either a control stalk (still to be checked) or control box of some kind with SET and RESUME marked-a wire for each?-a positive connection for it-and then it needs the cruise enabling in the ecu?and the more pictures the better, i would normally be the first person to do stuff on cars but with this one im quite wary as there way too much electrics like the thought of having an electric thottle cable can be quite unnerving to me sometimes like if it shorts its self out or something daft when coming into a roundabout style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":surprise:" border="0" alt="surprise.gif" /> wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDog Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 (edited) To Subtle Modder:Wayne, your list is correct for a TDI, but so far as I know, for an easy swap to cruise on VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Group petrol cars, you defo need a "drive-by-wire-throttle", meaning there's no conventional mechanical throttle cable and its all done with electronics. Since all Group TDI (not TD) cars have all had drive-by-wire throttles then they they are relatively straight forward. Not sure if ur Rosa has it, but I reckon you can tell if you have a drive-by-wire throttle by pressing the accelarator with the ignition off and see if the throttle in the throttle body moves. If it doesn't, you've got drive-by-wire.What's your engine code and ECU part number?The cable I got off Ebay worked a treat eventually, one like it is listed on Ebay, auction 180037758934I downloaded VAG-COM release 409.1 from http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/ The demo version can do basic stuff with the engine ECU but you need to upgrade ($99) to get the full functionality. The cable seemed not to work at first - the installation programme sets up a virtual COM port (whatever that is) but when I re-installed it and followed all the instructions from the Ebay guy AND Ross-Tech it was faultless. Quite a lot of perseverence was necessary. Matt Edited October 15, 2006 by BigDog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 yes my car defo has drive by wire many on here such as tigz are convinced it isnt but after constant looking there isnt a cable in sight and just a black box with a plug on where the throttle cable rotation piece should be and last month i learnt the ignition trickk of press the throttle and nothing happens but switch the ignitioon on and you can hear the butterfly flicking open style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />my engine code is AUD but not sure on the see you code will check that this week if i remember style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":doh:" border="0" alt="doh.gif" />thanks again wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted October 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 (edited) Woo I've been away on hols and missed the excitement.Well done Matt for getting it working.Its not that difficult when you get into it.I too pulled out the plenum cover (left of ECU) to give more access but luckilly for me it didn't break.Now I remember, they were IDC connectors, but like you I dont trust em, so I got the soldering iron out.There are no wires fitted to these connections. (VW group saving money).Wayne, to test for drive by wire, throttle up to 2k revs, in neutral, hold there and press the brake with the other foot, the revs should drop to idle.Looking forward to seeing those pics.Phil Edited October 18, 2006 by MrBiscuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 yep defo drive bi wire got sick of the not being able to left foot brake after two weeks style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />ecu code does this sound right 030 906 032 Dk ? Bosch Motronic? got all the details of the Bosch sticker but not sure which bit you need to know if its compatible?wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBiscuit Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 yep defo drive bi wire got sick of the not being able to left foot brake after two weeks style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />ecu code does this sound right 030 906 032 Dk ? Bosch Motronic? got all the details of the Bosch sticker but not sure which bit you need to know if its compatible?wayneYep that is an ECU code, I did a quick google, and found some references, (not the with the Dk suffix tho)030 906 032 E is the 1.0 link030 906 032 EB link click thru to seat, I guess it's the 16v030 906 032 BD linkAs to cruise compatible, my gut instinct would be probably no, simply because I know of no VAG group cars fitted with the 1.4 8v that ever had cruise as an option. The 1.4 16v I would say is a possible yes, as the Polo 6N2 has cruise as an option with this engine.If it was me I'd probably have a crack at it anyway, but with the knowledge that ;A. I might waste a few frustrating hours with no results.B. I might destroy the ECU, and have to fork out £150 plus.Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The subtle modder Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 yeah think im gonna leave this for the moment till other things are done that i have planned style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> and no i dont know of any vags fitted with cruise on an 8v lump but dont know if this matters but my engine is almost identical to a 1.0 and id imagine similar to the 1.6 8v maybe if that makes any differencewayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g-man85 Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 Right there are sellers on ebay which advertise they sell kits for the Audi A2 1.4 TDI.Has anyone spoken or know anyone who has paid £150 for a retro fitted cruise control?Here's the link to the seller (ps I have asked him various questions for anyone else interested)http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-CRUISE-CONTROL-...1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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