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My new daily project with a 1.4 TDI


FraH2o
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I continue with the restoration and cleaning, cleaned all the upholstery of the trunk and reassembled the luggage compartment.

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I then worked on cleaning the rear panels

 

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Finally, here too the difference between cleaned up and before is still to be treated

 

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Finally I started cleaning the seats which I imagined would be tricky…the gray can also be cleaned quite easily…the yellow is another story and I'm afraid it will require another step…I wait for it to dry well and then I'll come back to it for another ride

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While cleaning the upholstery, I wanted to test the car stero with built-in phone holder.

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I wanted to test it as functions (basically it can only be controlled from the phone) and I wanted to test 2 survivors to whom I am linked for many reasons ... but who gave me no hope.
2 impact of 16,5 cm woofer mounted   on my ex burned  golfMk3 gti...really no hope to listen sound from them

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… but... I tried with the multimeter and following info taken from the tutorial I tested that the coils were miraculously safe. The only problem is the detachment of the cone suspension membrane.

Again with the tutorial, I lifted the cone with a sponge, cleaned the contact area of both the basket and the intact but detached membrane and re-glued it with polyurethane glue.

Tested using his boxes as a sort of speaker and to my delight they sound nice and crisp.
And on a sentimental level I am very happy to use on my Lupo another legacy of my beloved GTI

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29 minutes ago, mk2 said:

I use the Philips CE153DR hifi. Similar controls and awesome sound, plus DAB.

What happened to your beautiful mk3? It burned?!

From this

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To this....😔 RIP 27/03/2021

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A big fire in my house....

 

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I reassembled a large part of the dashboard after cleaning again with a brush mounted on a drill, degreaser and  final step of the internal plastic cleaner.

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I deliberately left the central knob of the heating controls waiting to replace the T5 W2W bulb

Also arrived the steering wheel hub and tested that the ribbed steering column was ok..... and it's ok

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Gauges and holder has arrived.

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After studying the various connections with the multimeter, I connected everything to the bench to check if everything was ok and working….and it seems to good.
Before being able to assemble everything I had to modify the gauge holder and then lined the wiring with the original fleece tape taken from the severed electrical system of the other dashboard and positioned the turbo pressure sensor internally and not in the engine compartment.
For simplicity for future (hopefully few) maintenance I prefer everything nicely grouped.

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I used stereo wiring so I didn't have to "rape" the lupo system. Fortunately, all cable needed are present in the radio din adapter cable.

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20 hours ago, mk2 said:

I love those three gauges! And the volts and boost go low, which is useful. What brand are they? Where did you get them? Expensive?

Nice!

I take them on amazon after reading variuous feedback. They're quite reliable and accurate, I compared the reading with my VDO gauge on golf and same reading. I spent 75 euros for all. 

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i continue my slighty TT projects: pedals and knee supports ok ... but not putting the gear lever group is like leaving the work half done.
Make this is really complicated amd certainly not as easy as with golf which has its own dedicated support produced by JOM/MHW

I start my project from a relic of my RIP Gti

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I decanted them in solution of degreaser and water for one night, suddendly toothbrush and recovery of everything back to its original state

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Once everything was cleaned up, I began to think about how to marry the Lupo tunnel and the TT bezel + boot

First situation to verify if the hole in the Lupo tunnel was covered by any element of the TT….not form the TT bezel, but from the turret yes….on the fur but yes

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I take  some measure between the turret and the height of the gear rod, then I start to work….

 

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The group  between heights and dimensions seems good

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The black TT turret resting on the gray wolf tunnel I like as a combo. Resume the general duotone of the interior.

Now I will disassemble everything to fix the turret and couple everything correctly.

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I connect all gauges and radio.

In terms of assembly, mechanics and operation everything is ok.

I quickly assembled the steering wheel taken some time ago ... I'm looking for my favourite classic Raid Hp 320mm  but it's quite hard to find: few, used and raid farm has closed (which they told me was also near me where it produced)

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The gauge lighting is connected to the Lupo lighting dimmer via DIN radio.
The illumination of the gauges is much brighter. With the rheostat they are lowered (slightly) but the problem that the lupo lighting disappears completely.

I will try with the help of my electronic  friend to try to put a resistor to dampen the intensity of the lighting and make it more homogeneous to the rest of the Lupo instrumentation.

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Slowly I come to the last part of the interior work but with two chronic flaws as i read on thr forum

Window lifter and door stop are in very faulty

After years of unuse  both glasses are stuck in the closed position: not a convenient position for removing the window regulators, but after a bit of trouble they came off.

With precious guide of @mk2 i start to check my window system and electric motors

Athore job to do: The door arrester  are loud and bumbling and is clearly visible the bad work of bolt that secures them to the frame.

Moral:I'll replace the window mechanism (rope and guide are very bad on mines) and new door arrester

With all doors without cards  I will do a minimum of soundproofing work before putting everything back together and putting my old Impact back into operation

 

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1 hour ago, The Penguin said:

Un lavoro d'amore, se mi perdonerai posso chiederti di rimappare il motore e le conseguenze di questo. . . freni molto marginali, la mia Arosa TDI è rimappata spaventosamente veloce ma i freni mi spaventano a morte non sono all'altezza del compito

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Once I completed i would remap also my engine....I'll think in a front  golf mk2 G60 brake upgrade.

How much total Hp with remap your Arosa?

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1 hour ago, FraH2o said:

Once I completed i would remap also my engine....I'll think in a front  golf mk2 G60 brake upgrade.

How much total Hp with remap your Arosa?

Between 100 and 110bhp but it hasn't been on a rolling road yet, you will need 15" wheels for that 280mm conversion

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I started the job for a slight soundproofing of the doors. I cleaaned the inner surface with degreaser and I'm going to place the panels

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And now another nice job awaits me: soft touch removal from plastics (fortunately not much)

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I left the handles to soak with the degreaser for 24 hours ….ruined soft touch washed away.

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I sanded with 400, plastic primer, 3 coats of matt black wet on wet and one  coat of glossy.
Left to rest for a day, sanded at 800 with water to opacify and 2 crossing coats of clear matt .... and between one coat and the other a pass of the heat gun
Fairly discreet final yield, now we'll see the duration

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For the door handle frame (which I discovered to be black and painted in gray) given a rather complicated shape I preferred to get a couple of them on autodoc with a chrome handle ... I'll see if I can satin finish to take up the back of the TT aluminum scattered around

Then I started restoring the unglued clips from the front panels. Epoxy and I hope to have them fixed for another 20 years

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A slight soundproofing on the panel between with neoprene tape and the aluminum just to dampen the "tambourine" effect

Then fabric cleaner and brush on a drill at reduced speed, and this panel also looks like the color it had 21 years ago and there is a big difference compared to the other one still to be worked on.

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I go ahead with job for the upholstery cleaning 

The same procedure as previous parts also for the two C pillars

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I disassembled everything  (sun visors, handles and interior light) and  I cleaned the headlining

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It's much easier to clean the headliner when it is out of the car...

Take it down from the front, then work along one side, then the other side. The edge sits in a slot, so the headliner is slightly (about 5mm) bigger than the roof. I put it on a big table and use clothes washing detergent (cleans upholstery the best), then rinse with a hose outside. Be gentle, because it is easy to break it. There are two plastic tabs at the back that slot into the metal section that holds the tailgate hinges. You have to move it forward when you finally remove it 👍🏻 :)

 

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