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imaparana

Lupo GTI Rally car project

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I believe there is only one post on here with someone who got the correct sized aftermarket ball joint, the brand they got was not mainstream, unfortunately the PN they shared didn't work.

Lots of comparison pictures in posts, Gti ones have a longer tab that fits into the control arm. When you search online they just lump the Gti in with standard Lupo ball joints. some people have had the short ones fitted by garages who didn't check size and had problems with drive train.

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yeah  I found that post the other day, was the RTS Spanish Ball joint. 93-90973-156 for right and last 3 digit 256 for left.
Looked them up  but it says  for  - 6X1 AND  6E1,  but skajme seemed to get the right ones

http://www.rts-sa.cn/fr/actualidad/nouvelles-sur-les-produits/93-90973-156256-available-vws-ball-joint-right-left-sides
 




 

Edited by axe
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1 hour ago, axe said:

yeah  I found that post the other day, was the RTS Spanish Ball joint. 93-90973-156 for right and last 3 digit 256 for left.
Looked them up  but it says  for  - 6X1 AND  6E1,  but skajme seemed to get the right ones

http://www.rts-sa.cn/fr/actualidad/nouvelles-sur-les-produits/93-90973-156256-available-vws-ball-joint-right-left-sides
 




 

Their the puppies i got to, hopefully they work!

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2 minutes ago, imaparana said:

Their the puppies i got to, hopefully they work!

Let us know :D , I got a set of new ball joints in boxes with my car, but the also seem to be the non GTI ones. 
I looked into it and I Can get genuine here in Japan but they're well over 100 GBP a side! 

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Hope they work

On 11/19/2019 at 9:49 AM, axe said:

I Can get genuine here in Japan but they're well over 100 GBP a side! 

I will never moan about UK prices... until the next time!

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Not much up an update as i keep forgetting to take photos, but.

The car is back from the body shop and all back together

On 11/19/2019 at 9:49 AM, axe said:

Let us know :D , I got a set of new ball joints in boxes with my car, but the also seem to be the non GTI ones. 
I looked into it and I Can get genuine here in Japan but they're well over 100 GBP a side! 

Got the aftermarket ball joists all fitted and seem like the right fit! :)

ive made up a fibreglass bootlid with integrated boot hinge mounts which needs a lick of paint and will be able to be thrown on the car.

I managed to get a Dbilas Dynamic intake manifold, which ive gold tape wrapped and fitted with a thermo spacer intake gasket to try and keep the intake temperatures down (the exhaust up to the 2nd cat has also had exhaust wrap on it). Ive had to re-route my induction kit also.

The project silver top mounts id fitted developed a knock after the crash so i have reverted to standard for now. 

Polycarb windows are in also to replace the smashed ones. The tailgate window and right rear quarter window will need to be done after the next rally.

Both seat mounts have had to be replaced as these got pretty bent up in the crash also.

Next event is the Bovington stages at the end of the month so will update again after that. 

 

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These are the ball joints: 93-90973-156 & 93-90973-256, I ordered through autodoc.

Edited by imaparana
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Top mount bearings should be replaceable -I looked at mine, seems to be a top hat insert needs pushing out to reveal a cir-clip.

usually they use standard sized bearings -try Merlin Motorsport for NMB or Aurora ones.

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Sorry about the lack of update, so heres a brief one!

Back before corona times we took the trip to the UK and did the bovington stages, car ran fine (apart from boiling brake fluid) and ended up 18th out of 47 entries. Was a cracking fast event.

I have done a few updates during the covid-19 lockdown, including stiffening up the engine mounts with polyuerethene rubber, and triangulation and polybushes to the rear beam.

Today we did the first (and maybe only) rally of the year over here, was a small entry of only 8 due to local restrictions, me and the mrs did a joint entry (2 navigators required) down at the local quarry, was up to 3rd out of 8 beating some fast cars and doing well, until on a change over there was an increase of vibrations, due to the fast change over times there was no time to investigate,  launched it off the start line and broke a shaft (stage max for us :(  1:30 off our times), upon replacing the shaft we realise there was a broken top engine mount :( spares all fitted in time so the misses didnt incur a penalty! got her all up and running for the rest of the event, ended up with a 4th and 5th overall. The lupo was a proper force to be reckoned with on this type of event and cant wait for the next one.

watch this space for more juicy updates soon :)

Edited by imaparana
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Pics please?

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Great results!

Boiling brake fluid... what fluid were you running?

Triangulation of beam - is that from middle of beam out to bottom shock mounts?

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On 8/9/2020 at 9:30 AM, mk2 said:

Pics please?

not sure if you mean of the mods or from the event, so heres both.

I also made some kevlar sill guards, and a riser for the shifter lever

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117024107_681405322457460_5966220575774401757_n.jpg

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On 8/9/2020 at 12:22 PM, LR5V said:

Great results!

Boiling brake fluid... what fluid were you running?

Triangulation of beam - is that from middle of beam out to bottom shock mounts?

Thanks, it was ATE typ200, ive splashed out on some castrol react so fingers crossed that solves it. if not i need to man up and use less brakes

Yes thats what ive done, it was done in the lupo cup and aslong on mk1 golfs

 

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I dunno if i like the idea of putting rose joints on the rear beam like that. Bigger anti roll bar, yes, but you want the ends to move a bit? 

lamborghini (and maserati) had loads of trouble using rose joints on the front of their countach. They're great in aircraft and boats, but i was always taught that you need the flexing, or you get cracks.

Namrick dot 5 fluid used to be good. Not used it for a while. But i found that the piston seals give up sooner when you run hot. Rubber doesn't like being cooked. I wonder if you can get EDPM that works at high temps? Not my area of knowledge. @Skezza is our forum's chemist....

Those are some great pics! That quarry shot?! Cool. I love the custom brake system that I guess runs the rears?

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9 hours ago, LR5V said:

Wow! Looked into cooling vents?

seem to recall Mk3 Golf OEM ears that mount on the inside of the caliper:

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5734441-Late-239mm-brake-cooling-air-scoops-onto-Mk1-GTI

Where did you find out about the cup car triangulation?

I’ve also fitted some rs3 ducts that fit on the lower arm to help duct the air (forgotten how much I’ve done over lockdown)

there is a lupo cup car brochure floating around, if you want it pop me a pm

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1 hour ago, mk2 said:

I dunno if i like the idea of putting rose joints on the rear beam like that. Bigger anti roll bar, yes, but you want the ends to move a bit? 

lamborghini (and maserati) had loads of trouble using rose joints on the front of their countach. They're great in aircraft and boats, but i was always taught that you need the flexing, or you get cracks.

Namrick dot 5 fluid used to be good. Not used it for a while. But i found that the piston seals give up sooner when you run hot. Rubber doesn't like being cooked. I wonder if you can get EDPM that works at high temps? Not my area of knowledge. @Skezza is our forum's chemist....

Those are some great pics! That quarry shot?! Cool. I love the custom brake system that I guess runs the rears?

The bars aren’t to stiffen the roll of the rear beam, but more to stop it bending inwards or outwards during cornering, was more of a while I had the beam out mod, not really sure it’s made much difference tbh but more of a belt and braces approach.

ill see how the Castrol stuff holds out on the next tarmac event long enough to give me problems.

yes it’s a hydraulic handbrake plumbed into the rear system

 

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Curious about this boiling brake fluid. 

How do you know it was boiling fluid?

When was the last time you changed it? How often do you do it? What method do you use? 

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20 minutes ago, Skezza said:

Curious about this boiling brake fluid. 

How do you know it was boiling fluid?

When was the last time you changed it? How often do you do it? What method do you use? 

The reason for the thought of fluid boiling is the pads I’ve got are very high temp pads, the fluid wasn’t the highest temp stuff available, it’s been bled very regularly 

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35 minutes ago, imaparana said:

The reason for the thought of fluid boiling is the pads I’ve got are very high temp pads, the fluid wasn’t the highest temp stuff available, it’s been bled very regularly 

So you don't think it's brake fade?

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10 hours ago, Skezza said:

So you don't think it's brake fade?

i dont think its reaching the limits of the working range of the pad, plus at the event at bovington, bleeding the brakes at lunch time expelled a load of bubbles and increased the brake pedal feel for a good few stages

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Bubbles? Master cylinder?

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On 8/15/2020 at 12:26 PM, mk2 said:

Bubbles? Master cylinder?

Out of the calipers after they are bled

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I was thinking that somewhere air is getting sucked in. You know, that seal on the shaft or plunger that pushes the piston on the master cylinder. Even if it boils, then cools down, you shouldn't get any air (or gases) produced. 

How have you plumbed in the rear circuit? You still running diagonal split or just fronts?

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Have you seen bubbles since? Could it be moisture?

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