LexG Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hi all ive read so many threads on this but now I'm at a loss. drivers window is dead. I've taken the reg out, greased it plugged it back in.. Nothing .. Only a clicking noise. tried a new switch.. Nothing. bought a brand new regulator .. Plugged it in to check before fitting it properly .. Nothing . Again only a clicking noise.. Which leads to think maybe there's nothing wrong with the original and there's another problem. The passenger one is fine.. Any ideas .. My patience has run out ..!! Ha ha Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Got a spare regulator (passenger side) which you could use for another test if that's any help? I'm in Chertsey - and my GTI is on the road now! Guess you've tried checking for voltage at the plug? Copied out page from ELSAWIN. There appears to be a regulator control unit..............if there is one it could be faulty. Central locking and anti-theft alarm system control unit, front left window regulator control unit,front right window regulator control unit, right window regulator motor J295 - Front left window regulator control unit, in driver door J296 - Front right window regulator control unit, in front passenger door J379 - Central locking and anti-theft alarm system control unit, above relay plate T10q - 10-pin connector, blue, left A-pillar coupling station T10v - 10-pin connector, blue, right A-pillar coupling station T23 - 23-pin connector, green, on central locking control unit V15 - Right window regulator motor Q9 - Connection in window regulator wiring harness Q48 - Connection (open), in interior wiring harness Q49 - Connection (closed), in interior wiring harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 The diagram didn't come out on previous post - try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Nope. Don't know how to make that work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Try yet again....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Thanks buddy .. No I haven't tried checking the voltage as i don't have the tools. Glad to hear your Gti is back on the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 When you say new regulator do you mean it came fully with a new motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Where is the window glass when it clicks on the switch? I'd manually drop it down if it's at the top and see if it can move with the motor then. Your motor may be weak or the mech needs a bit of aligning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Yep new motor on the regulator ... ive tried it with just the motor on its own, no regulator attached as well and that just makes a click noise.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Does it make the click noise (like a window fully up does) going up and down? or just one way and nothing the other? And the old motor and regulator does exactly the same even with no glass in it? You really need a multimeter for this sort of thing btw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Yes the motor/switch just makes a quiet click sound.... Up or down. the new motor/ did the same just a slightly different click sound ( because it was a different motor . maybe it could be a wire? im tempted to just cut my losses and give the thing to my local garage. Gotta say every aftermarket part I've seen looks so inferior to the original part, the oem part has the winder and cable all enclosed whereas the aftermarket part just has the winder exposed (like a fishing reel) but vw want £237 for a new regulator and I'm not even sure that's the problem..... yes I think your right I need a multimeter ...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourist Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 What part have VW quoted you £237 for? The reason I ask, I had a new driver's side regulator last July (genuine VW), part number 6E0 837 462B and it was £94-29 excluding VAT part only? I would hazard a guess that you have got a broken wire in the driver's door loom, based on what was wrong with mine- mine would operate the passenger window down from the driver's side but not back up again, and also the window would close halfway and then suddenly shoot back down- turns out the anti trap in the motor was knackered and it eventually seized, no pattern motors available so had to buy new/genuine. The driver's side window motor is part number 6X0 959 801B, and was £189-49 excluding VAT part only last July- OUCH.... Have you tried your local VW TPS for parts? Hope you get it sorted :O) Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Cheers, you were right , broken wire in loom, all fixed now.. But the window has some play in it when it's fully up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 On 10 February 2016 at 8:24 AM, LexG said: Cheers, you were right , broken wire in loom, all fixed now.. But the window has some play in it when it's fully up.... Where was the break in the wiring? Inside the door, at the hinge point or under the dash? I have the exact same problem with my passenger window... Just not enough time to explore it properly right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I think the wiring break was in the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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