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Hi,

I was thinking about buying some Pioneer TS-G1731I 17 cm door speakers. I pulled my old speakers out and it looks like the standard size is 5.5". I was just wondering if it's possible to fit these with adaptors?

Cheers,

Chris

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The OEM speakers are secured using rivets and are a pain to remove, but they are 6.5 inches.

Once you've knocked out the rivets the 6.5 inch speaker will fit but you'll have to find a new way of securing the new speakers.

You can use an MDF ring and bolts to secure to the old rivet holes and screw your new speakers into.

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Don't forget to make sure they're mounted properly. I think there's an issue (been identified a few months back) regarding water getting in past the speaker mounts. Make sure it's probably done and you'll be laughing.

Does a £25 set of speakers actually make a difference though. OEM's in Loops are pretty good. I always think if you're going to install ICE, you might as well go component and spend £100 (minimum).

Still, if your OEM speakers are blown or something, go right ahead.

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...and you can get plastic mounts for replacement speaker. If you don't fir them they will foul the window when wound down.

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Thanks for the replies, it's been helpful. I ended up using nuts in place of spacers and its worked a treat. But the Pioneer speakers were a replacement as both OEM speakers tore. I must say it was worth it.

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Thanks for the replies, it's been helpful. I ended up using nuts in place of spacers and its worked a treat. But the Pioneer speakers were a replacement as both OEM speakers tore. I must say it was worth it.

ahh. Fair enough. I don't think I'd replace OEM with OEM, primarily because they're surprisingly hard to get hold of. I don't know how much they are new mind.

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If I remember correctly the VW OE speakers are quite expensive. However take into the account the requirement for adapters...

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If I remember correctly the VW OE speakers are quite expensive. However take into the account the requirement for adapters...

You wonder though if compared to a set of equivalent priced speakers how they'd stand up. I will stand by the fact that OEM speakers are far better than your typical £15 shitters from Halfords.

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You wonder though if compared to a set of equivalent priced speakers how they'd stand up. I will stand by the fact that OEM speakers are far better than your typical £15 shitters from Halfords.

Agree. My mate was breaking his MK4 Golf and he had a set of Pioneers he bought for 90 quid. So i thought why not fit them, they must be better than standard. Nope they are not even as good!

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I don't think the OEM tweeters are very good, my replacements are marginally better. Anyone else experience the annoying distortion of high pitched consonents?

clipping?

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clipping?

Sounds like it.

....and no. Speakers don't usually cause clipping unless they're blown. Speakers reproduce a clean sound if a clean sound is input, and the OEM tweeters are damned good at it. The only time a speaker clips is if it's overdriven, and from a car head unit alone, this will never happen.

Clipping is caused by (in simple terms) too much input voltage and not enough output voltage.... so to speak. That's quite basic explanation though and I'm sure there's a 100 better ones but in our case, your amplifier can handle a certain input voltage, and a certain output voltage. If you drive the amplifier hard with a high input voltage, then your amplifier will not be able to produce the output voltage required to meet the high input voltage. In the context of your car stereo, CD's, MP3's and the like, should really not be causing clipping whatsoever, even up to 100%, because the software on the head unit should regulate the voltage being delivered by the output amplifier. The only time you should suffer clipping is if you push your head unit with a line-in cable and an iPod or something similar. You have an unregulated analogue input entering through a port that is effectively a free license to push the pre-amp.

However, most head units are small but deliver a higher output than their tiny little amplifier can really handle. So they cram in a small amplifier and push it to produce higher volumes than it's really rated for. That's why most 50w head units, don't produce anywhere near that. It's 50w peak, not 50w RMS. They're more likely pushing 15w RMS, but even that is too much for most head units.

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That's a small 15w amplifier that can run off DC 12 volts. Not too big right? Surely they can fit that in your head unit case. Well yes, they can, but throw on top a motherboard for the head unit software, a power supply, various input/output channels and you soon run out of space. Most bog standard head units are multi layered to fit all the circuitry and most complex head units (like mine) look like a ****ing multi story car park inside. Trust me, I've taken it apart and it's not a pretty sight.

Thus, the small amplifier is all they can just about fit in, but people/customers like volume, so many head units will actually suffer clipping when turned up full, simply because manufacturers allow you to push the internal amplifier hard and it simply cannot handle the volume. I reckon most head units will start to clip after about 70% maximum volume. If you bypassed the head unit amplifier, which is possible I believe (although I've never done it myself), then you would get a totally clean signal and driven from a proper amplifier, you wouldn't experience clipping whatsoever.

Fit in a cheap, full-size amplifier, match the signals of it's maximum capacity, and you literally will NEVER experience clipping.

Simple eh? Not really, pain in the arse fitting amps are. Just live with the noise when you crank up your head unit :P

Edited by Skezza
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https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZaTH7o6zsX4lMg7il1INgUnftUmFJVSe

A YouTube video series that determines when head units start to clip. Different for each one.

Edited by Skezza
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  • 2 weeks later...

I replaced my head unit and kept the OE speakers and they sound great!

Think the reason the OE speakers are decent than some £50 speakers is because they handle the mids so much better, aftermarket speaker manufacturers seem to assume you have a sub already and the bass response isn't as much.

Although the odd thing is, in the sport the speakers have lasted ages and sound great, but in the 1L with the same HU, they blew pretty quick. Whether it's an age thing or the sport has uprated speakers, I don't know.

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I replaced my head unit and kept the OE speakers and they sound great!

Think the reason the OE speakers are decent than some £50 speakers is because they handle the mids so much better, aftermarket speaker manufacturers seem to assume you have a sub already and the bass response isn't as much.

Although the odd thing is, in the sport the speakers have lasted ages and sound great, but in the 1L with the same HU, they blew pretty quick. Whether it's an age thing or the sport has uprated speakers, I don't know.

It's almost certainly an age thing. Speakers do wear out and if you drive them hard, they'll wear out quicker.

There are OEM uprated speakers, but they're rare and I've not seen many of them.

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OEM Speakers are pretty decent IMO!

They're very decent and not worth, I reiterate, not even remotely worth upgrading unless you're willing to invest in good quality component stuff. We're talking in excess of £100.

If you want to simply get a good sound in your Lupo, get rid of the OEM head unit, and grab yourself a decent aftermarket. Even a cheap aftermarket will do better than the OEM one and most are MP3 which can deliver a rich, clear sound (assuming your MP3's are ripped at a high enough bitrate). The OEM stereo is critically underpowered at about 7w (which is weird considering what I said earlier) which can itself, be even worse for speakers than a head unit that can deliver more power, but that's for another discussion.

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If you think it's a poor quality amp in a single DIN stereo, do you think a double DIN stereo might have a decent amp? Assuming it's not a fancy mini computer ICE type unit which is probably equally squished in

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If you think it's a poor quality amp in a single DIN stereo, do you think a double DIN stereo might have a decent amp? Assuming it's not a fancy mini computer ICE type unit which is probably equally squished in

Haha, interesting question. I actually have no idea. I imagine if it's anything complex like mine (screen, GPS, bluetooth, all that) then probably not because having taken it apart, there's various additional boards which connect into the mainboard and obviously give it the functionality it provides. That said, I know those Double Din Kenwood's are supposed to have a seriously good reputation for sound quality. That said, the sound quality could be some sort of post-processing as opposed to having an excellent amp.

That said, I really wouldn't worry. Even a cheap aftermarket head unit going through your OEM speakers will sound far better than the OEM head unit. Throw in the fact that unless you're desperate for decibels, you'll be unlikely cranking up, and you'll be fine. Some people prefer OEM, some people prefer sound quality. To be honest, I just wanted functionality, sat nav etc.

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If you think it's a poor quality amp in a single DIN stereo, do you think a double DIN stereo might have a decent amp? Assuming it's not a fancy mini computer ICE type unit which is probably equally squished in

No, headunit's only have so much power to draw from that's why they top out at what they do.

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