Derv

I don't think I've ever seen an A2 TDI with an automatic 'box either.

All are originally automated manual, but the conversion to fully manual are relatively straightforward mechanically, as the 3L uses a manual clutch and gearbox. I'm going to guess that a automatic conversion could be tricky. Finding a torque converter and automatic gearbox bell housing to bolt up to the 3 cylinder TDI engine block are the key. The rest should be relatively easy. The 1.2 and 1.4 TDI in many ways is a chopped down 1.9TDI. I would start looking there for possible donors for automatic parts.

Has anyone got an AMF Flywheel to hand? I'd like to know the dimensions, especially the overall ring gear diameter. TIA

Check the hydraulic fluid level first. Top up with G004000 if required, even half a teaspoon can make a difference. This should fix it.

VAG shells are generally made obsolete from when the last car rolls of the production line. The VIN doesn't designate the registration year, there are a few cars that get registered late, so end up with a plate newer than the actual age. If you build a new car you can get it registered after an IVA test, which used to be the SVA.

Yes. I know that. But the original figures are still of interest. Around 20,000Nm/deg is a fairly good figure to start with, but stiffer is better.

Elsewhere I entered a discussion about chassis torsional rigity and the importance and difference it makes to a car. I have figures of 19,800Nm/deg for the Up! which is well touted by VW. I read that the Fox measured 17,941Nm/deg, which sounds pretty good for a car thrown together by VW moonlighters in Brasil. I wonder if anyone has figures for the Lupo? The 6E is supposed to have uncompromised rigity against the 6X, but I can't find actual numbers for either.

Absolutely. I'm all about the manual.

Yeah. Bigger door mirrors are exactly what I want - not. ? I can't work out the complex algorithm used between the interior adjustment stick and the mirror itself. I just resort to poking the actual mirror, like the old days.

Hybrid, yes. Golf4? I haven't looked into that option.

I'm looking for a pair of Lupo door mirrors. Condition is not important, as long as the black base part that fixes to the door is in okay condition. The rest can smashed, cracked or broken, it doesn't matter. Hopefully someone has something that would normally be chucked away. Thanks.

The speedo drive is definitely nylon. Check the easier/cheaper stuff first. You can spin the sensor and check for a signal. I've had trouble with a broken connector before, which turned out to be a very cheap fix.

I've not seen any guides, but I normally just screw a couple of woodscrews into the seal, then pull on the screws, and wiggle the seal out.

I'm also thinking if they're 250€, then maybe I should have picked a pair up from Germany, as I was quoted 350€ over here in the UK.

There must be something different about the fitment, because I think the 3L front struts are still available from VW, otherwise they would be obsolete like the rears. I've never had them side by side, so I can't think what's different. But the top mounts are the same as an A3.

I'm currently running just a cat, and it sounds like a tractor. But I'm okay with that.

I'm with you. 1000bhp+ has been done on the small port heads anyway. The AGU/AEB isn't all that. Plus DBW has its tuning benefits. I've got a spare AJQ(180/240) dyno'd at 231PS/332Nm and minimal lag on a K03 and ME7. I'm tempted to put it in a Lupo and be done.

The AEB is the longitudinal equivalent to the AGU that some like for the big ports, so it the engine mount makes sense in this case.

I ended up getting an old pair of really scabby Caddy seats, which are the same as the Golf mk3. They fit straight in.

The AGU isn't the best choice IMHO. Sure, it's got the big port head, but it's also got a throttle cable. ME7 is much better for tuning. There's a good reason for using something like a BAM, as even the APY doesn't have WBO2 or EGT monitoring, so the later engines are much less likely to make holes in pistons. A GTI is a good shell to base it on, depending on how much modification you intend do to the body, otherwise it is a bit of a waste. With all the rear end modification, I would be very tempted to go space frame or semi-space frame, with some double wishbone suspension. You can pick up a standard Lupo on the cheap, and chop away without worry. I keep looking at 1.8T conversions, but part of the of the Lupo's appeal is the low weight and nibbleness. Twin engines would be out for me. I'd rather have one 800PS motor than 2x 400.

Once you get a multimeter, just undo a battery clamp, lock the car and disconnect the battery. Set your multimeter up to measure amps (A), then clamp one side to the battery post post, the other to the disconnected battery clamp. This will show your resting current draw in Amps. I'm not sure of the sort of current that's normal on a Lupo, but if it's in the region of 0.0x Amps, then it's fine. If it's nearer 0.1A or more, then you need to start pulling fuses out, one by one, until the current draw drops. Then you've found a circuit that is drawing power. It can be quite fine consuming, which is why you are better off DIY than paying someone by the hour to pull each fuse out. I'm sure there are some better guides out there. Just search for current draw test.

Yep. Exactly. There's no point in stabbing in the dark, and throwing parts at it. Anyone with a multimeter can do a current draw test. A multimeter is much cheaper than a battery or an alternator, and is very useful if you don't have one already.

Thanks. I think I've narrowed it down to to Golf mk3, 6N2 Polo. The seat backs are the same as a Golf mk2, but the runners are wider, as rich says. It's interesting that the bases are steel, and the backs are alloy, weighing about 12.5kg each. I'm on the hunt for a mk3, so I can butcher its seat bases.

I am looking at fitting some different seats in my Lupo 3L, but I need help in confirming which seat runners will fit. I think they are the same as mk3 Golf runners, and I am sure I have read that somewhere, but before I go off and find some mk3 seats as donors, I thought I would ask here first. Take a look and see what you think. TIA.

Thanks for the concern though. I've had my fair share of gearbox problems. My 1.4 still needs fixing, which will be my 4th Lupo gearbox rebuild. My last 3L rebuild was because of a stripped 5th gear. I think the two gears alone were over £300 each. I think the main bearings should be listed as a service item, 75k miles can be too long. I'm trying some different oil this time, and I will change it more frequently.