decvalts

Promise I've no skin in the game for this but just been following the auction out of pure curiosity, not seen a SDI reach this much on eBay for a while, although it is a nice looking one that looks well looked after: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335185343121

Well, the driver's side wishbone bush just failed on the MOT. 2 years old and 20k miles. Looking at the past history, the last pair lasted about 20k miles too. So it seems like the going rate for them. (at least on the roads round here). Not sure I'll bother with better quality aftermarket ones in future if I'm going through a pair every 2 years.

I had a 1.0 MPI Up for about 6 months and have to admit even as a firm Lupo fan, the Up drove better in nearly every way. Handled much better, better use of space in the body made it feel like a bigger car. Also fairly easy to work on for a car of its era. I'd happily take an Up as my next car if the Lupo is forced into early retirement.

I do love a subframe thread. Hours (days) of potential "fun". My alignment was way out after the swap although not by that much it sounds! Didn't know some places would do subframe alignments I just went off the dirt marks as near as I could. Might have to investigate one of these places...

It would be the niche-est of niche business ventures but I would fully support your Lupo Subframe and Rear Axle Import Company. 😁 . My rear axle came from a breakers in Portugal on eBay, shipped it over on a pallet surprisingly cheaply and like you say there was barely any corrosion on it at all. Looked like a 2-3 year old part.

There's an ID.1 in development I think with a target release around 2025. Totally different platform to the Up but similar segment of small(ish..) city car. Unfortunately we've kind of reached the end of the emissions/economy trade-off in combustion engines (I think in practical terms anyway) and economy has to suffer slightly for most tweaks made to reduce NOx and particulates etc. It's not good stuff to breathe in, especially in cities where it doesn't disperse as well as CO2 does, tends to linger around urban areas.

Had a brief mini-crisis of looking for a Lupo replacement due to impending ULEZ and parking permit charges (also based on emissions) here. Asked for a quote for a new Up but told would be difficult to find anything even from stock from local dealer. Thankfully decided to stick with Lupo until ULEZ inevitably gets extended one day. Quite like the Up though, borrowed one briefly and was good to drive (although gerabox was crap but no change there...)

Does anyone know how the clutch kit part numbers match up with Lupo models? Are the clutches slightly different for each engine/gearbox or is there some interchangability? Putting an SDI reg in to various car part factors and seeing that the SDI clutch kit is quite a bit pricier than other kits for Lupos.

Second the recommendation for the Haynes Polo Mk3/6N(x) manuals. Mechanically a lot is very similar and the parts were shared across the two cars. 4150 (Blue cover) or 3500 (Red cover) depending on your engine. There's a German equivalent of Haynes specific to the Lupo called "So wird's gemacht" (~="That's how it's done") which has great diagrams similar to what you get in ELSA, also good for torque settings. No English translation though. EKTA catalogue online also really had for parts No.s and diagrams: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/ Then there's ELSAwin which you can still get online for fairly cheap but finding I use that less and less. And of course, the How To section on this site!

What's the difference between the black connector vs blue/green connectors on the 6CD changer? Is there any way I can convert or use the black connector version to plug into the receiving connectors on the back of a standard VW Beta Cassette/Radio on the Lupo? (it doesn't appear to be compatible unless I'm missing something...)

One day I'll get a 3L and then we can suffer together on the forum 😁. (The 3L facebook page is pretty good to be fair)

Was doing some other work on the front end and noticed the lower control arm rear bushes are already splitting and starting to come apart from the bush housing! I only replaced the full control arms with brad new ones around 15,000 miles ago, surely they should last longer than that? Appreciate the car has done some heavy winter driving last couple of years....but still. I used TRW aftermarket parts thinking they were semi-decent/closest to OEM spec? Any other recommendations for good quality control arms for the Lupo? (Or tips to make the bushes last longer?). Feel like I've done something daft in fitting them that's made them fail quicker but not sure what...

Is it me, or are garages increasingly just not interested in doing work on the Lupo (and cars of its age I guess)? Asked several local garages for a rough estimate for a front wheel bearing and just get no replies. Finally got fed up today and ordered the wheel bearing puller kit to try and DIY it. I guess there's a reluctance if there's plenty of newer cars to work on that are less likely to have corrosion/part availability issues. (But the Lupo wheel bearings are still easy to get!) Anyway rant over, expect a How To at somepoint if there isn't one already and I manage to do it without a hydraulic press....

They have got a gem. Great to see so much work being put into Lupos to keep them on the road. The thread was great

I've a feeling your at the other end of the country, which is a relief for my bank balance, and a barrier to me joining the double-SDI club (But ditto I think you'll regret selling potentially, next owner is getting a gem though.)

I've also been enjoying the totally smug feeling of passing 50k SUVs skittering about in the snow. (Although I have to admit putting on winter tyres cost nearly half the value of the Lupo...worth it though... 🤣)

Is that press car TDI still going, anyone know?

Is this your SDI? Hope it's just the pressure switch! What's the mileage on it out of curiosity?

How old is the battery? I've twice had what I thought were alternator failures with similar odd behaviour a bit like yours, 1st time round, battery went completely dead and had to call out breakdown, wouldn't even power the hazard warning lights. RAC were convinced it was alternator, getting weird readings (but no alternator warning light). Replaced the battery, had no problems for another year of driving, alternator was charging new battery properly. Recently got alternator light on dash, alternator not charging battery at all, but eventually traced it to the Bosch voltage regulator on the alternator. Managed to replace it in situ without having to take alternator out. (Nightmare on the SDI apparently...). Gave all the connections a good clean as well to be "belt-and-braces". Never yet had to fully replace the alternator...did seem it was either connections or voltage regulator (or battery) both times...

My SDI probably needs new sills, front wings, and rear arch panels if I ever went down the full restoration route. I've just been topping it up with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 + spray can blue until I can be bothered/have the money to get it done. It seems to do the trick every couple of years. Topping up wax in any cavities when I have wheels/parts off helps as well I think. Nothing catastrophic found yet rust wise but the paint job screams rattle-can amateur. It's a functional working car though and it gets driven it the worst winter conditions.

On the subject of oil change intervals - is it possible to reset the interval reminders (OIL & INSP) somehow in VCDS or otherwise, *before* the warning reminders come on? Mine have got out of sync presumably from not being reset on time. (I assume the usual method of the button/ignition combo doesn't work unless the reminder is flashing...?)

Has anyone changed their oil service intervals above a certain mileage/age? I've heard owners of other cars doing this (i.e. switching to every 6 months/5000 miles instead of 1 year/10000) above say 100k miles. Is their any benefit to doing this with any of the Lupo engines, or is it just a waste of oil? I've switched to 5w40 as suggested in another thread (SDI), I see you can also get special "high mileage" oils. Just curious.

Good idea. I've a bunch of little how-tos with pictures that I never got round to doing just because I thought they'd be obvious to people here. (But they weren't to me at the time...). The passenger headlight bulb is a good exaxmple! The buyer's guide is a good shout too. There's different (or just additional) things to be looking for now (rust, subframes etc) than there was perhaps back in 2010-ish

Yeah my front panel has the big alternator shaped hole which suggests front way out for a full swap, but it looks like there is still potential faffing to get the alternator bolts off to clear the chassis leg. (Flashbacks to the SDI cambelt change...)

-- yes it is! Very, very fiddly but the voltage regulator part can be swapped entirely from above without removing any other bits. One of the nuts had rounded off as well as got stuck but some nut remover sockets got it free. Gave it all a brush up with contact cleaner, replaced the nut and washer, new voltage regulator in, screws and cover back on, and it was charging the battery properly again. Saved a huge ordeal of taking all the front end off.