ObjectiveAway

Sandblasting is best for thick metal like subframe, you cant easy get rust out without blasting, sandblast damages less than 0,1mm of it. If you don't like sandblasting, try vapour/aqua blasting, its amazing how low pressure water can clean metal simply by runing trough sandblasting gun.

The best option to add any analogue signal to OEM radio is to solder it in place of AM frequence radio or cassette. Works very easy with 3,5mm plug, but not with bluetooth, because digital signal from bluetooth must be converted to analogue to use this technique. I like an empty tray in bottom of radio, therefore I use single DIN radio with bluetooth, that matches interior lights colour and brightness. Image for example:

My Lupo is far from having a comfort control module, I don't know which Lupo models have CCM, but my interior light are turning on and off completely as soon as I open doors.

I think these are for regular lupo, 6E0 837 461 B is windows regulator with electric motor, coasts around 100£, 6X0 837 461 C is windows regulator without motor, coasts around 25£.

Call few more VAG dealers, they should gladly order OEM items for you, might like advance payment offer, however the parts can not be returned, thats might cause unwillingness to order them for consumers. With or without electric motor, both versions are available more than 1000 OEM units, but You have plenty of aftermarket parts available, check part codes on https://7zap.com/en/part/VAG/6X0837461A/ , some of these should be available else where. These brands appears available: VAN WEZEL; ESEN SKV; BLIC; TOPRAN; MIRAGLIO; MAGNETI MARELLI; VALEO.

Any VW OEM parts distributor, for example your nearest VW dealer should be able to order it (actually Audi, Škoda and any other VAG dealer might be able as well), delivery might take some time, because they don't storage all oem parts available in shop. Can You please make sure it is correct OEM code?

6X0 947 569 OEM appears more than 1000 units left.

Thank you for explaining this to me. Since EURO 4 was aprooved in 2005 I was confused about either they are EURO 2 and 3 or 3 and 4, therefore its defo 3 and 4 then.

Congratulations with your first car! I guess something is wrong with the switches, you can remove them and take a look. Stary by pulling cables 2 and 3 manually, if thats make difference, then its only controller problems. Read this manual before, sadly this page don't contain long pfd type document, therefore notice next page button to read next pages.

You can find these straight non-cat manifolds from cars manufactured untill 2000, because they have EURO2 emission class. I have exact setup for my Lupo, 2001 model, thats actually EURO3 emissions class — therefore my Lupo had two cats from factory. Barelly passed emission (CO2 was 0,1% lower than allowed) test with single cat (lower one) and exhaust manifold without cat, which is EURO2 exhaust system. However with EURO2 car you can pass inspection without cats at all and the check engine will not even turn on.

I only grab the centre knob with fingers, sometimes it comes out really easy, sometimes really really hard, but I don't want to damage the pastic. Have heard the know should be turned to 2nd position during remobal. Thats 2W bulb, part numbers for it: If autentic look is not necessary, then it is a lot easier to add active antenna kit somewhere in front of car (usually sticked on windshield).

On the left side you can see crankcase breather pipe, the big pipe coming all way up from crankcase oil separator, which partly connects to throttle body (number 10 connects to throttle body). The part No 6 is PCV valve. Haven't seen hose No 11 on any Lupo engine, therefore No 9 is connected directly to No 10 (single pipe), which connects to throttle body. And on the right side of air filter box you can see valve cover breather pipe which is slightly different on your Lupo engine, but still connects valve cover and air filter box. Just attach both (crankcase breather and valve cover breather) to oil catch can and close the throttle body inlet.

195/45/15 is fine, for r16 you will need lower profile, don't know about arches, haven't tried to mount that wide tires on mine. Lupo somehow is designed for very small wheels.

Car light micro switch have nothing to do with lock barrel. Did you adjusted the spring correctly back in place? I repaired recently exacly the same two things on my Lupo, the micro switch is attached to par number 1/1A, As I understand, you took apart part number 25. Lock barrel should easy turn to both sides in 90degrees, and come back to the center with help of spring even if the barrel is not inserted in car, if its not then its not properly assembled, if it is turning 90 degrees on both sides then fault is not in lock barrel. Micro switch is poorly attached to lock part Nr. 1/1A, you should remove that lock part, and re-attach micro switch closely, basically plastic weld it back in place using soldering iron, because its now loose or fallen of completely. Mine micro switch was laying down inside the door.

Viscous coupling for power distribution and viscous coupling for power transmission is not the same thing at all, as far as I know Audi never used synchro. Quattro is regular AWD technology which has always been fine.

I totally agree MK2, since you told you wanted to build mk2 synchro analogue for Lupo, if you don't put rims with large offset or spacers, and simply widen chassis by fitting wider subframes, there should be no problems with wheel bearings. Since You are talking about roll-cage, snorkel and wheel guards, Your idea actually don't fit "VW Lupo which looks similar to the VW Golf Country Mk2 and fulfills a similar purpose", mk2 synchro was actually weak 4x4 car (viscous coupling) which did not needed roll-cage and snorkel. I don't know for what purposes You want a 4x4 Lupo, but I suggest to fit Lupo body on AWD frame, for example Suzuki Samurai frame is much more appropriate for off-road and roll-cage than few VW subframes. Samurais have 1.3 engine as well, would need to attach Lupo body to frame. There was an idea about 4x4 Lupo with Fiat Panda drive train, which is slightly harder than fitting body on frame.

I doubt Lupo wheel bearings are able to carry that amount of wheel offset. Even Landcruiser and Patrol heavy duty bearings struggle and heat up with big offsets and large wheels.

Basic Lupo models have so much common parts with other VW/Seat/Audi models. On this ETKA catalogue appears lupo window crank ( link is for bottom part of crank only) is also applied on VW Sharan 2001/2 Seat Alhambra 2006/8 and Arosas, however i didn't find proof of it. I have already found door hinges for my Lupo from Audi A6 C6 and other parts in easy way, for cheap money. Used Lupo parts are often really hard to find, therefore they coast way more than same part from other vehicles.

Brake regulator prevented mine rear brakes from working almost at all, it was too stiff, therefore I decided to remove springs and adjustment parts from it. Left rubber seal and hex adjustment bolt, now it is fully open all the time (because it works opposite way like VW T3 brake regulator), let's see if that improves braking for rear axle. Of course I did saved these items for any occasion, so far so good, my handbrake was always too soft, and it has adjusted since this modification.

Good to know, im surprised because my 1.4 8v Lupo Bosch ECU looks exactly the same like Polo ECU for same engine.

Immobilizer emulator is easy way out, coasts few dollars from china, takes a bit of work and understanding to install it, you will be able to start your car with slotted screwdriver afterwards.

Hello everyone. I will share to everyone my simple experience with vw lupo and crossovers for speakers. \\ Total work for me - about 4 hours, I guess it is possible to install crossovers within 2 hours if you know where to put them. I have very poorly equipped vw lupo, with just 4 speakers - two mid range speakers in doors and two tweeters in front panel. I use a radio with pioneer mosfet 50w x4 head unit. All the time tweeters tries to sound as loud as possible and mid range spekers starts to work only after the tweeters reach their limits already. For this reason I was shure I need to install crossovers. I found the left door and left tweeter wires slpitting in air vent, however I needed to disassemble half of the front panel, you can try to do all the wiring just by gently pulling out the left air vent, by just taking off the thick insulating tape from the wires. As you can see in picture with wires, speaker wiring in vw lupo is very simple, they just made an u-turn in mid range speaker wire for tweeter and added tweeter wire in the end, this results in the effect, that tweeters and mid range speakers gets the same intensity of music output power from the radio. The left side is actually more easy, you can just cut the wires, clean a bit of insulation material from the ends of all 6 wires, and just connect the crossover. I simply screwed the crossover in the blank space in the bottom of the picture, the left air vent goes above, however I removed top covers to both of these crossovers because of limited space. I can add photo of results if anyone will be interested. The right crossover was more complicated, first you need to remove the headlight switch (turn switch to off possition, press the switch in and turn it clockwise), then you will be able to unscrew a hex bolt, after that just gently pull out the right vent hose. I also removed instrument cluster to make acess to wires more easy, because in the right side you will need to solder some extensions to wires. I screwed the tweeter as you can see in picture, as I said - didnt use the top cover of the crossover because of limited space. Everything goes in the place without any extra transfromations. OEM speakers are not high end, and radio needs to be turned louder after this modification, but the speakers sounds briliantly and thats fine for this car.