yeha

Strange question. Have you not tried the 5mm drill in the gearstick and locking the shift tower? I find the shift tower can be a bit awkward to get into the correct place but after that it's easy.

Do you want some front seats? ;-)

I have the rusty set to match the axle... Do you need the brakes? I was thinking of keeping the rear hub and stub axle for a future project but I'm not that bothered really.

Just swapped mine. The old one is rusty but solid. Might be a good start for sand blasting and powdercoating. otherwise it's going in the scrap pile. Harrogate area.

Done it now. 0-100%. Result.

Finally got there. Having tried to remove the pedal box and failed due to the number of other things that get in the way, I removed the fusebox, loom connector panel and relay board, plus the lower dash panels. Then I used a 90.deg. drill adapter on a battery drill to chop out the side of the plastic box surrounding the electrics, by poking the drill through the fusebox hole. There is already a rectangular cutout that I continued to the top of the box. I could now put my hand on the quadrant and loose nut. When I'd got it rotated to the best position, I pushed up on the quadrant using a long screwdriver alongside the throttle pedal and tightened the nut. I also replaced the nut with a locking item. You need to get rid of the washer to have enough thread to bite into the locking part of the nut. An alternative is to replace the plain washer with a nordlock. Getting to this position took a month, putting it all back together took under 20 mins. Starting from scratch, it should be under a couple of hours. The connectors are all colour coded and the relays only go one way. What I have realised is that there is no endstop on my throttle pedal so it runs out of travel before it's hit the carpet. I think this is why the quadrant came loose. The part no. for the missing bit is 6N2 723 527.

I think I have one you are welcome to. It's in Yorkshire.

The linkage arms are still available from VW. I got mine through TPS - £18.50 each.

It used to be more common in older cars. My mk1 Golf has deformed the plastic in the indicator stalk. Always worth changing the loom to use relays especially if you're using higher wattage bulbs. Most wiring connectors are tin plated. This degrades over time to tin oxide, which is an insulator. Less area for the connection, higher resistance, the hotter it gets.

Just spent some time on Elsawin and realised that you rotate the pot by loosening 2 screws from the clutch pedal side and then rotate the whole pot. For info, it's an m6 screw with a torx head. Don't know the size yet.

I'm a bit closer to solving this. Managed to get the lower wiring connector block thing disconnected and out of the way. I can see the nut on the pot through the fuse box hole but still can't get my big hands to it. I think I can get a ratchet spanner to the nut but how to lock everything whilst I tighten it?

Just powered up my dodgy copy of Elsawin. The subframe is aligned off the rear mounting holes using VW tool T20163A, called a centre guide. I've still got the old subframe so I can create my own version.

I think mine have spent too much time near the sea. Corrosion central.

Tried fitting my TT wheel yesterday. Physically it fits, the problem is that the clockspring for the airbag and horn wiring mounts on the steering wheel rather than the column. I'm sure it can be made to fit by replicating the 3 holes in the wheel. Not sure if the horn will work either as the newer wiring has 2 connections to the wheel whereas the older stuff uses the column to earth the horn.

Febi 38859 is quoted as 332mm long.

Be careful if you don't have ABS. You may over brake the front end. I killed a car ths way.

It will just bolt in but the wiring loom may be slightly different. You may be able to transfer your existing loom across. I've got an Audi TT wheel to fit in mine and I've fitted a similar S6 wheel to my T5.

Or a plank of wood with a chamfer and a block to stop you rolling off it.

You can do it with Bilstein B8's for that sort of money.

Unfortunately I was in the works car park so this wasn't an option. They were such a b'stard to get off too.

I'd had similar thoughts about the lack of adjustment of the rear beam. I do have another Arosa to compare with. I need to weld the captive nuts so I'd like to think it's right before I go too far.

The VW part no. is 6X0827499B.

Just had the fun of replacing my TDi subframe, including the obligatory seized captive nuts, downpipe that won't come off the turbo, snapped screws in the rack, etc. Now I need to get it pointing in the right direction. Anyone know how?

I'll hook up the laptop over the weekend.