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Everything posted by yeha

  1. Was in there yesterday and spotted this. It's had a front end smash. The interior has gone. The front and rear suspension is there.
  2. yeha

    Lupo GTi in U-Pull-It in York

    They're in my van, although I also managed of get a pair of carriers from a mk2 Caddy which is all I really needed, so they may be up for sale soon. The end of the exhaust looked OK, but I never got any closer. Overall it looked tidy pre-accident.
  3. yeha

    Lupo GTi in U-Pull-It in York

    The steering wheel is OK apart from the fabric hanging out of the airbag. Prefer the feel of the TT one myself. Didn't look at the sills but it did look like it was tidy pre-smash.
  4. Being 6'5", I've always hoped the seatbelt would save me before I get punched in the face ☺️. When I find the Arosa wheel wiring, I'll get some pictures of the 2 connectors side by side and hopefully they'll be the same crimp and can be swapped over. Otherwise I'll just splice them to make a hybrid.
  5. Unfortunately it's just a continuation of the day job. Looks better now I've screwed the airbag on. Very nice on the hands compared to the standard one. I need to swap the airbag connector so it's wired correctly, it's just got a resistor at the moment.
  6. I'm illustrating the process of fitting a later steering wheel, it's shape isn't the show stopper.
  7. yeha

    passenger side wiper arm

    The part no. for a RHD passenger arm with the normal J hook end is 5Z2 955 409 A. Quick search on ebay should find you one.
  8. Thought I'd update this thread with some photo's. I had to drill some holes, do a bit of filing and 3D print a bit. Just need to get an airbag to finish it. Much nicer feel.
  9. The reason for the larger hole in the Lupo one is alignment tool for the subframe. The height is a problem as the bush locates in the subframe into a cup at the bottom.
  10. yeha

    lupo tdi gearbox cables

    Strange question. Have you not tried the 5mm drill in the gearstick and locking the shift tower? I find the shift tower can be a bit awkward to get into the correct place but after that it's easy.
  11. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    Just swapped mine. The old one is rusty but solid. Might be a good start for sand blasting and powdercoating. otherwise it's going in the scrap pile. Harrogate area.
  12. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    Do you want some front seats? ;-)
  13. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    I have the rusty set to match the axle... Do you need the brakes? I was thinking of keeping the rear hub and stub axle for a future project but I'm not that bothered really.
  14. Done it now. 0-100%. Result.
  15. Anyone know how to get to the throttle pot on the TDi? Seems to me that the dash may have to come out, but if there's an easier way I'd like to know before commit.
  16. Finally got there. Having tried to remove the pedal box and failed due to the number of other things that get in the way, I removed the fusebox, loom connector panel and relay board, plus the lower dash panels. Then I used a 90.deg. drill adapter on a battery drill to chop out the side of the plastic box surrounding the electrics, by poking the drill through the fusebox hole. There is already a rectangular cutout that I continued to the top of the box. I could now put my hand on the quadrant and loose nut. When I'd got it rotated to the best position, I pushed up on the quadrant using a long screwdriver alongside the throttle pedal and tightened the nut. I also replaced the nut with a locking item. You need to get rid of the washer to have enough thread to bite into the locking part of the nut. An alternative is to replace the plain washer with a nordlock. Getting to this position took a month, putting it all back together took under 20 mins. Starting from scratch, it should be under a couple of hours. The connectors are all colour coded and the relays only go one way. What I have realised is that there is no endstop on my throttle pedal so it runs out of travel before it's hit the carpet. I think this is why the quadrant came loose. The part no. for the missing bit is 6N2 723 527.
  17. yeha

    Arosa drivers seat

    I think I have one you are welcome to. It's in Yorkshire.
  18. yeha

    VW Lupo wiper linkage

    The linkage arms are still available from VW. I got mine through TPS - £18.50 each.
  19. It used to be more common in older cars. My mk1 Golf has deformed the plastic in the indicator stalk. Always worth changing the loom to use relays especially if you're using higher wattage bulbs. Most wiring connectors are tin plated. This degrades over time to tin oxide, which is an insulator. Less area for the connection, higher resistance, the hotter it gets.
  20. Just spent some time on Elsawin and realised that you rotate the pot by loosening 2 screws from the clutch pedal side and then rotate the whole pot. For info, it's an m6 screw with a torx head. Don't know the size yet.
  21. I'm a bit closer to solving this. Managed to get the lower wiring connector block thing disconnected and out of the way. I can see the nut on the pot through the fuse box hole but still can't get my big hands to it. I think I can get a ratchet spanner to the nut but how to lock everything whilst I tighten it?
  22. Just powered up my dodgy copy of Elsawin. The subframe is aligned off the rear mounting holes using VW tool T20163A, called a centre guide. I've still got the old subframe so I can create my own version.
  23. Just had the fun of replacing my TDi subframe, including the obligatory seized captive nuts, downpipe that won't come off the turbo, snapped screws in the rack, etc. Now I need to get it pointing in the right direction. Anyone know how?
  24. I think mine have spent too much time near the sea. Corrosion central.

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