mk2

I'd be very surprised if it's the ECU. The power outputs are all current limited (as in they have a self preservation circuit in there). Have you checked to see if the injector feed bus momentarily 'blips' to 12v when you power up? 3-4V is something you often can see in the form of a computer logic system voltage, that leaks through circuitry that is off. Are you seeing something around 4.8V on the sensors, which is typically their supply power volts? That tells you that the internal ECU voltage regulator is working fine. But thinking about it, there is an external feedback power circuit. So when you first switch on the ECU (ignition), the ECU does it's self test, then activates the low power feed control signal- turning on a relay, which then provides 12Vpower back into the ECU, which then is regulated down to 5V, to power the various sensors and aux circuits. Then another line is powered up to power the fuel pump and injectors- only after the crash (airbag) sensor has passed its checks (designed to cut off power to stop fuel being sprayed everywhere in case of a collision). You could connect up small 12v lamps to the injector feeds to see if they flash. 5 watt size. Anything bigger you wouldn't notice flashing (they take too long to get glowing). Although a 12v LED circuit might also work. Is the fuel pump running when you crank? Could be a stuck fuel pressure regulator, filter purge valve? Sorry for the essay...

No idea TBH, but usually they're on a 12v bus controlled by the ECU via a relay and separate fuse. Might be the relay if they're all out? So when the engine is not running, the fuel pump and injector power is isolated for safety. If sparks are ok, then it's not the crank sensor. Unlikely to be the cam sensor. Although ignition switch has been known to cause weird issues like this across all Lupos and Rossas. Lights and radio all good? @Pete's back! 👍🏻👋🏻

Most garages/workshops have spring compressors. Hey, even I do. Can't really see why you have to wait so long. Takes about 45 mins for the fronts, about 5 mins for the rears (don't need a compressor for the rear). If you take the rear shocks out (you don't need to), it's worth swapping the rear bump stops. I fit old 90's Passat stops, which you can pick up for £5 for a pair (eBay).

Bolt, nut and washer are the words you're looking for . A "screw" has a pointy sharp end to pierce and make its own hole. That might be an idea. Do you mean where the retaining clips push into the door holes, you put bolts. Then you fit a washer and nut (with a small amount of glue)? We need some pics...👍🏻

No easy way... They're fed with main gallery oil pressure through a tiny hole in the side of the "tappet". There's a little ball bearing that rests against a seat to keep the oil in, with a little spring. Sometimes crud gets in there and the ball bearing doesn't seal. You might be able to flush them out, but only once removed and sitting in a bucket of clean petrol. You need to keep squishing them, like a syringe. Lots of black filth usually comes out. If reusing them (the top surface should be mirror smooth and shiny, with no scoring or any marks at all), be sure to replace each one under the same cam lobe. So when you hear tapping on startup, it means that the oil in there has leaked out and is refilling (slowly). The oil is used to fill the gap between the cam and the follower. And hydraulics can take silly high pressure, so all the force of the cam is transmitted through the oil in the chamber. A really neat design. My fav part of a modern engine... The rest of your engine should be fine if you change the oil every 5000.

Yeah, it happens to every Lupo... Even worse is when the moulded clips break, then the only solution is to glue the retaining clips. And their position is important when you glue them back on. I use polyurethane rubber adhesive. They break when you lean on that ledge that the electric window switches are mounted on. I've had an idea how to prevent it happening, by mounting a strip of something on the top of the door so that the door card panel hooks over it, like on Golfs. I haven't tried it yet. I broke one of my door cards (again...) a couple of weeks back.

I needed a good laugh this morning. Yep! 😂🤣😂👍🏻

Yep. I recently hired a brand new car (and yes, I hated it). I had two bloody scary incidents... Was passing a cyclist, just as normal, all safe and lovely, when all of a sudden the damn car swerved towards him. And it really meant it. Like, "I'm going to get him!". Had to really force the steering HARD to avoid hitting him. Who would have been to blame had I hit the guy? The other, on the return trip was when a partly deflated (metalised) helium balloon blew across the road just a few feet in front of the car. Yep, the car applied full emergency braking causing the car behind me to just miss me and do a perfect 180 in the road. Fortunately nothing happened. Not impressed with this experimental technology. It's certainly not foolproof. Safety systems need to be 100% effective, not 99.99%. Imagine one in ten thousand fire extinguishers is actually filled with petrol. That's the gamble. No wonder people are turning the systems off. Thanks for posting this! 👍🏻

@Rich knows the answer I have once read somewhere that low oil pressure, or incorrect type of oil can cause this symptom. But it's not actually a fault?

Just for your entertainment... One of the cars I look after. 😂🤣😂👍🏻

I wish this was a bit nearer to me. Sounds excellent!

We NEED more Lupo presence. 👍🏻

Where about was this?

Hey hey! Welcome to Club Lupo 👍🏻

OMG! Don't jack it up there, it'll go straight through the floor! Not a jacking point... The right place is on the sill triple edge, just below the little arrow marking. Hope the floor pan is ok after this. There's very little rust under the car. I'd get the whole underside pressure treated with waxoyl or similar to keep it looking that good! Yeah that's just a down pipe, with some heat wrap around the flex joint I'm guessing. Go for Ernst, Walker or Otto brand exhaust bits. Autodoc? And like @tigcraftmentioned, anti roll bar drop links. There are two sizes. Make sure you get the 18mm hole...(not Gti).

You usually need to fast idle the engine to get the air out. You'll also notice that the reservoir tank fluid level drops as the revs go up. All Vdubs have a self bleeding pipe, which you can see connected to the reservoir tank. Bear in mind that the thermostat might be stuck shut, because later ones have no "jiggle pins" to let the air through. So they don't get enough heat to open quickly from a completely dry engine. So they don't open and trap air... Welcome to Club Lupo 👍🏻

Having changed one of mine last week, they're set back, not forward like you'd expect. Have a look at new ones for sale and you'll see pics...👍🏻 Your pic with red tape is right.

The glow plugs draw a lot of power, so it could be a loose 12v connection somewhere? Your guess?

Keep the standard windows... pop outs always leak! But if you change them, you also need the inside trim panels because they are also different to standard.

That's the glow plug warm up light. And also used for "fault detected" if it stays on or flashes. Usually only behaves like that when the weather is really cold. Read all about glow plugs...

Most likely the crank sensor. But other known issues are relay 109 and ignition switch. But could be something else of course... (not the injection pump)

18k. Just not fair (178k).

Yeah, there's loads a things you can still use the std Beta hifi with. Even Bluetooth modules that can be directly controlled from your phone... The Lupo comes with pretty good door speakers as standard, if still working. Most of the functions are pretty intuitive. What do you need to know? And welcome to Club Lupo 👍🏻

Here: (grab a cuppa before starting to read it...) https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/41812-the-definitive-gearbox-thread/ There's also the definitive pedalbox thread. All the answers are in those

Here: And here's the source: https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/63534-mending-cleaning-lupo-indicator-stalk-lever/