mk2

I thought it's the same as a standard Lupo? I'm guessing you mean the door 'pull'? Removable by prizing off the cover using a thin spudger, then using a number 2 philips driver to remove the two screws. @Rich or am I wrong (they're different?)?

Yeah, messaged Matty, but not sure how often he checks his inbox. I think that the forum will need a different confirmation method. But matty uses a template for this forum/site, so might not be that easy. All you moderators must be well fed up. It's really picked up in the last few days. Thanks for keeping on top of it 🍻 Red C3PO eyes indeed

Ebay?

Checking in this morning, it's pretty obvious that CL is now becoming victim to our "we welcome everyone" attitude, where anyone can chime in if they have something to say. Sadly AI algorithms have learned that they can get around the simple join and verify procedure, meaning they can SPAM the forum effortlessly. All to help the Rusbots and CCP shills. Besides a complete site rebuild, or more complex sign up or sign in procedure anyone got any ideas?

Just had a thought- if you have or know someone who has a snake inspection camera, you could look down the entire length on the inside, all the way to the front. Inside the back arches, there are 45mm inspection bungs, just under the noise/stone chip dampening felt. You need to take the back wheels off to remove the felt- at least the front part of it. Torx screws hold it against the metalwork. Easy enough to inspect then. There are also bungs underneath, where the rear beam pivots. I removed the whole lot last summer to spray lots of fresh wax into all my Lupos. And replaced any that were missing afterwards.

Holy crap! Er, yeah, I've only ever seen it that bad on a South African imported mk4 (with minimal wax injection)- mine. And I too sold it as I just couldn't be bothered to fix it. But that was a regular cheapo, common as muck mk4. Not a Lupo GTi, worth a shed load more in good condition. And a lot more desirable. And in Raven Blue!!! (I'm talking myself into making you an offer here...). Looks like you'll need to run an angle grinder right down the entire length, both sides? What's the inner box section like? The construction is 3 pieces- inner box, vertical stiffening plate and outer sill. Time for an exploratory dig?

Good info 👍🏻 @ObjectiveAwayDo you have the details for other Lupo gearboxes- and the cross references - which other cars use the same types?

You need the right ball joints. Regular type, not gti. Same problem I have- I need regular too. On the gti, the hub is different. The shocks are different and the ball joints are different. But I think- not sure, the control arms are the same (but the bushes are different). Subtle stuff thats easy to miss...

Holy thread revival! Undo everything... Either way if you remove from below or above. You need to slide the thing sideways by about 60mm to clear the clutch.

Yeah, regular ball joints are slightly smaller. I bought one the other day as a spare, and it's definitely a GTi version. Bigger. So if anyone needs a LHS gti ball joint PM me... The thread and the nut is bigger too. They will fit, but kick out the hub carrier more, which means the wheels will be toeing out a lot. Which makes sense when you said that the track rod ends are almost unscrewed to get them back in again. The camber will be completely wrong now.

Yes. You may need to change the gear shift linkage, speedo pickup and clutch connection.

Here... https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/101571-how-to-set-up-the-right-camber-angle-non-gti/

Love that interior...

The main difference is the gear ratios (and minor linkage changes). If you put a box in from a 1.0, the car will simply rev higher. What happened?

I'd say still worth a lot more as a whole than as bits, even if a non runner. How much did that crashed non runner go on here for a couple of years back? Like £2k ish? Needed about £750 worth of bits, now worth £5k. Valuable bits are things like tailgate, wings, front and rear bumpers, exhaust, lights, glass and interior (but not everything). Engine and box are still easy to get. @Rich will rebuild it...

Start with your design first. That's the hardest bit. Post lots of your idea sketches pics on here for critique... 👍🏻 Most vinyl cutters (sign writers) can do whatever you ask. If they are pros, they'll usually have a vast selection of colours and finishes. Application needs a still day if doing it outside, and always absolutely clean. Not a speck of dust, which ends up being a bump - really obvious. And wax the car first, so you can always remove them later. Applied either dry with a backer release sheet or wet, using a dilute mix of washing up liquid and a plastic spatula.

Pics please

You can drill out the worn cup then turn the link around. So the opposite good end goes where the worn one was. Add lots of CV joint grease. Worked for me

Check the gearbox pulse sensor unit...

Could be many things. Have you checked the compression on each cylinder?

Mmm, not good. So what's not working now?

You seriously need to get together with @Skezza. I think we can now call you the forum expert on vdub security systems... But yeah. I think a physical security system is in order now. I'll have to wire in some secret switch which will disable the engine. It's actually quite scary what devices like that can do. There's even software which can copy the ID of an apple phone to spoof apple pay. And bank cards, although I believe that there's a 12 byte authorisation code. I get how all the electronics works, but the software is the bit I don't get. And I don't like installing code without knowing that it's legit. Wish you were closer down south.

Apparently can be used to crack everything (with a software update). There are some 'curious' youtube vids on the thing. From what I understand, it's a wide band radio receiver with data record facility. And protocol analyser. And has a built-in transmitter to rebroadcast what it has just picked up. Clever, but no good on rolling code keyfobs (so you can't steal VW cars with it!). Anyone tried it? (@Skezza?) Might get one and report back, but not cheap at about £170. Deliberately not using the name on here. See pic. Thoughts?

Get outta here! No way. 8 complete gtis for sale? The parts alone are worth more than the car now (almost). Especially if not in good or mint condition. Going on ebay now for a look... It's true. How unusual. Everyone must be broke. Should've bought a Tesla. Er, I mean an SDI. I'm just trying to figure out how the cup car's title is transferred. If not a registered vehicle, who's to say you're the legal owner if you buy it? Any car can be registered, it's just a case of having it inspected first. An SVA.

If the old control arms are still ok, just replace the bushes... use Mehle, FAG are other quality branded parts. I find they generally last ok (40k miles). But bear in mind that their purpose is to protect the suspension. Pot holes and kerbs destroy them. Stay with regular rubber bushes unless you're using the car on track. You'll thank me later On the Lamboghini Countach, the entire front suspension is made up using Rose joints, which great if you need extra precise handling, but they generally only last about 5k miles. An oversight for the engineers at Lambo... Not really a road going car. Oh, and when replacing them, look out for the little triangle/arrow, which shows which direction they need to be fitted in. If not in the right position, they wear out super fast.