GraemeW

Well you've convinced me to stick with a bit longer anyway, gunna sort the worst of the mechanical stuff, put it through another MOT (March), run it another 12 months beyond that. By which time they might be getting collectable enough that it will be worth someone sorting the back arches and subframe, and I might have saved enough cash for a nice ed30.

One more won't hurt. If you're ever in Hudds call round for a brew anyway.

Yeah the mechanical stuff isn't too bad, and i'd be up for sorting those out if it wasn't for the rust repairs (I can't weld or spray). The subframe was the main thing that had me thinking it was beyond saving but maybe not if they're gettable from Spain. For someone who can weld it might be a good project, especially if the prices start going the same way as the GTis.

Pfff, where to start... 1) There's a heavy clunking from the osf... changed the bottom arm, arb link and cv joint so don't think it's those (although the rear bush looks tired after less than a year, serves me right for buying eBay tat). Could also be the wheel bearing sliding about; when I changed it I couldn't refit the circlip as the lip that holds it in place had corroded away, and as the hubs are shared with the GTi they're a bit pricey even 2nd hand. 2) It takes 2-3 goes to start when cold... changed the injector seals, temp sensor, fuel filter and glow plugs but hasn't helped (although has helped with fuel economy and no longer throws plumes of unburnt diesel out when you boot it). No light on dash so at a loss with that. 3) It's on its original turbo and cat and although the emissions are fine, at 135k i'm guessing they'll both need changing soon. 4) The front subframe is pretty badly corroded... not dangerously so but bad enough that it will need replacing in the next few years. 5) Both back arches are bubbling, and the bodywork has quite a few little dents here and there. 6) Sunroof leaks... had the roof lining down and it's def not the drain pipes. It's coming from the joints on the plastic frame but only in the winter so guessing the glue that holds the frame together is failing or maybe just the outer seal needs changing. Other than that it's pretty good! Interior is very clean for the year. It'll probably scrape through another MOT (next March) if necessary but i'm reluctant to put much more money/effort into it. When I do get shut I'll def put it up for sale on here first, like I said it would make an excellent donor car for someone with a TDI.

I did wonder if someone with a TDI might want it as a donor car. It's not going just yet, hoping it'll limp on till it's MOT nxt spring, maybe longer if I can't find anything to replace it. In any case i'll offer it up on here for cheap before I drive it to the breakers.

Bought off eBay for £25 and never fitted but sadly my Lupo is heading for the breakers so needs a new home. One of the legs looks slightly bent (see pic) but might be that's how it's supposed to be so haven't bothered bending it straight. Also the previous owner tarted it up with what looks like black Hammerite (or similar) and they painted straight over the surface rust so bit of a bodge but it's rock solid and would no doubt clean up like new with a wire wheel. Free collection from Huddersfield or will post for a tenner. Cheers.

Anyone with a sunroof model, as OP says but ignore the last part about sliding backwards and forwards... the headlining is recessed into the sunroof opening so won't slide. Instead, once you've removed all the bits and pieces gently prise up the trim that runs round the edge of the sunroof opening (from above with sunroof fully open). Then at the rear you do need to push the back edge of the headlining forward a bit to get the clip(s) to disengage (mine only had one clip but maybe cos a previous owner broke one) and you can feel where they are by sticking a suitably thin prodding implement in. From here on there are no clips - not even push-fit ones - you just need to gently leaver it down by working your way round the edge with something like a wallpaper scraper. Mine was a bit stuck along the front edge but this was just where it had got stuck on some windscreen glue... there were definitely no clips at the front, the only thing holding it up were the visors fixings, etc.

My passenger door recently stopped opening (central locking car), wouldn't open from the inside or out, turning the key on the outside didn't help, locking and unlocking with the interior deadlock switches made the plunger twitch but still wouldn't open, took the card off and yanked on the cable and plunger and every other moving part i could, swore at it lots... still nothing. So decided to take the driver's side card off to see what was supposed to be moving and in the process of unplugging the deadlock switch and plugging it back in again I heard an ominous clunk from the passenger side. Turns out the switch contacts were lightly corroded, easy fix! I should have guessed really... been getting drips of water from roof lining for a while now (think the sunroof drain tubes might need unblocking) and the leccy windows (on the same switch unit) have also been misbehaving. Anyway thought it was worth sharing before someone needlessly smashes their lock mechanism to bits.