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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/09/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    This is only a guide on how I did it, I take no responsibility if you damage your car or harm yourself in any way doing this. My lupo is 2003 and has no aircon. Got my radiator from eurocarparts as online you have 5 different options. Here’s the rad code I had. I’m not sure if it’s still the oem radiator. Might as well put a new thermostat in whilst you’re at it. I ordered one with the housing that connects to the radiator hose as apparently they are prone to breaking. MK2 suggested flushing it with dishwasher tablets as the system was oily so I did it 6 times. Dissolved a tablet, put fresh water in with it, ran the car for 20 minutes, waited til it hit about 50c on my obd scanner(can buy them for 20 quid on eBay) and drained all the water. I’d then wait about 30 mins until it said 30c before flushing it with a hosepipe. You don’t want to put cold water into a hot engine! It cleared up all the oil too. Top tip, remove the thermostat for a better flush experience. I also assume that you have knowledge on flushing an engine. For the thermostat, I’ll add some pics with instructions to this thread once my new one comes. Tools needed 10mm socket with a driver and an extension 8mm socket for thermostat housing torque bits(unsure on size) flat screwdriver pipe pliers( to remove the horrible spring clips from the hoses) New antifreeze Remove these Then wrap some tape around a flat screwdriver to pry out the indicator grill cover. The little white plastic rivet things might break so have some spare ones if you can. Once you’ve popped both sides, gently pull it out and use the screwdriver to push out the plastic tabs all along the bumper and the top. You’ll see them from above once you start pulling them off. Also unscrew the indicator bulbs to get it off completely. It’s easier to unscrew them as opposed to getting the clip off the bulb. it should leave you with this Undo the three supports and pull them back. Someone grinded mine off in the middle. Once you’ve done this, you’ll have space to pull out the radiator. Now we’ll go and disconnect the radiator from the cover and hoses. Use the 10mm socket to remove the fan as it’s easier to get to the hoses that way. If yours are like mine and the bottom bolt is rusted on and just turns, remove only the top two and tie it to the left of you. Remove the fan plug and the radiator temp sensor plug too. You’ll need to pry off the metal bracket on the fan plug with a flat screwdriver, it should then just slide out. We’ll remove the hoses now whilst the radiator is still bolted in. Make sure it’s not hot or you’ll burn yourself. whilst I was doing this I disconnected the overflow bottle, tied off the bottom feed and put some degreaser with boiling water in. Left it for the duration of me fitting the radiator then flushed it with a hosepipe for ten minutes. Now that you removed the pipes with the pipe pliers, there are 4 10mm bolts to remove. Your radiator will now slide out of the front where the brackets are. Make sure you take it easy so you don’t damage the new one going in. If your radiator is brand new, screw the bolts in halfway as it needs to cut a new thread into the plastic and it’s a pain when the radiator is already in the car. Remove them and then install the radiator. You can also remove the fan temp sensor and install it to the new one whilst it’s out. Everything is now in reverse. Put the new one in, bolt it in and connect the bottom hose. Bolt the fan back in, plug the fan and the sensor in. Before you put in the new thermostat or attach the top radiator hose, start filling the top rad hose until coolant starts coming out of the top of the radiator. Connect the top rad hose, install the thermostat, connect the hose at the bottom of the overflow tank and fill that up to the maximum level. Make sure all is connected and start the car with the coolant cap off. Once the thermostat opens, you might have to add more coolant and keep a close eye on the cars temperature. Once you see the coolant circulating and it doesn’t want more, close the cap to pressurise the system and check for leaks. Your coolant light might start flashing, if it doesn’t want any more coolant, switch the car off and on to reset the coolant light. Now keep an eye on the system. You’ll see steam from the radiator, this is normal as we’ve spilled coolant and water all over. The fan should come on at 96c. If you haven’t got the obd diagnostic tool, you won’t know but wait til the fan comes on and the temperature is stable for about 20 minutes. If so, put the grill back on and go for a test drive. Hope this helps at least one person.
  2. 2 points
    400 000 Km (250 000 mi) and counting. 😉
  3. 2 points
    SDI uses 5W40 or 10W40 with VW 501 01/505 00 spec
  4. 1 point
    Sorry about the lack of update, so heres a brief one! Back before corona times we took the trip to the UK and did the bovington stages, car ran fine (apart from boiling brake fluid) and ended up 18th out of 47 entries. Was a cracking fast event. I have done a few updates during the covid-19 lockdown, including stiffening up the engine mounts with polyuerethene rubber, and triangulation and polybushes to the rear beam. Today we did the first (and maybe only) rally of the year over here, was a small entry of only 8 due to local restrictions, me and the mrs did a joint entry (2 navigators required) down at the local quarry, was up to 3rd out of 8 beating some fast cars and doing well, until on a change over there was an increase of vibrations, due to the fast change over times there was no time to investigate, launched it off the start line and broke a shaft (stage max for us 1:30 off our times), upon replacing the shaft we realise there was a broken top engine mount spares all fitted in time so the misses didnt incur a penalty! got her all up and running for the rest of the event, ended up with a 4th and 5th overall. The lupo was a proper force to be reckoned with on this type of event and cant wait for the next one. watch this space for more juicy updates soon
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Only one as far as i know. But very early models were slightly different. yeah, you need a butterfly type clip to hold the valve in place, and the two new o rings, so it doesnt suck air into the system.
  7. 1 point
    Yeah, got two tubes and a hole in the top, with a water bleeder at the bottom. EUro car parts or GSF would be a place to start. Else ebay... about a tenner delivered. Make sure you get two little rubber "O" ring seals with it for the anti syphon valve. Welcome to club lupo car pic please
  8. 1 point
    Just went out in the car and tried to wind the electric window down but heard a bit of a straining noise then it fell down and wouldn't go back up. Got the door stripped down and taken the mech out and I'm pretty sure that blue roller has snapped a bit off and the cable should wind around it. Any ideas where I can get either a repair kit or a replacement part? Should the cable that normally goes around it look like that or has it also been damaged?
  9. 1 point
    I fitted the £22 eBay one (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-VW-LUPO-SEAT-AROSA-PASSENGER-LEFT-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REG-98-05/193484677001?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) yesterday and it's actually really good. I took my time aligning it all and it's perfect again.
  10. 1 point
    The coilovers said they would drop a bit after settling. Seems they have settled at this height. I'm happy with this considering this was the first attempt at setting the height and I haven't touched it since.
  11. 1 point
    This is how it's currently being held up until the regulator turns up tomorrow Those GoPro suction mounts are immovable once on so it's the main insurance against the masking tape failing.
  12. 1 point
    Its a blue emulsion i rollered on🤣 no chassis notches . my 1 Ltr beater.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    OE shock - £101.21 inc vat 4+ Shock - £63.56 inc vat, but only to be used in pairs
  15. 1 point
    I assume it's not meant to look like this then? Interestingly it does seem to be OEM
  16. 1 point
    It's a rear beam balancer weight (apparently). Had to look up the part number as I hadn't seen it before either. No idea what it's for or where exactly it goes. I'm sure it has a purpose though... WRC experts out there? I'm sure it fine tunes the rear suspension somehow when in race mode? welcome to club lupo
  17. 1 point
    Send me a pm with the radio serial number and vehicle chassis number and I'll see what I can do
  18. 1 point
    **** me. I'm widening your search for a second hand one. Weld yours.
  19. 1 point
    Christ, this has been a while. I've still got the Lupo! However, it has spent maybe the past three and a bit years just stuck in the garage and only doing about 50 miles. I've moved home and other things have taken priority financial wise. I think it's now about time that I sorted the bits out I want to and get this little thing back on the road. Before the car was garaged back in 2016 I had a few issues and problems. First, it needed new bottom ball joints and the ones from VW were on backorder. They took a good ten months to come at the time. For a while, the car felt awful to drive. The FKs that were on the car also gave up. One of the front legs just decided to die on me. I replaced the full lot with an expensive set of KWs and then pretty much didn't do any more miles in the thing. I also had a nightmare one day driving behind a van carrying a load of junk. Some debris fell off the back and the car in front of me swerved to avoid it but I didn't see it until it was too late. The thing put a nice hole in my sump, ripped the offside arch liner and bent the wing a little. I managed to repair the sump at the time with a little welding and some plumbers putty but there's still a small leak. The cars on 104k and that won't be increasing but its time to sort out that list of problems! The rear brake light hasn't been working for a while. So over the weekend, I removed the spoiler. It looks like I'm going to need a replacement connector, this one has rusted to bits, as has one of the bolts to remove the brake light itself, this took a while to remove. I also noticed I was missing this little plastic cover. I am guessing I can pick this up cheap from somewhere. I decided to pull out the rear seats first for a clean. I've removed the rears and noticed one of the seat belts no longer retracted itself. Off came the panels to find the culprit, this little clip had come loose. What's next I hear you ask. Well, it turns out I'd purchased a sump pan and arch liner a long time ago. So, those need fitting. I'll probably get the sump pan replaced when I get the belt and pump done. There's also an annoying little rattle from the front heat shield. I have one of those that will need fitting at that time. It needs two new tow eye covers on the front. I've got them both and they just need painting. One of the headlight washers needs replacing. The clip that holds the blank on is broken. I've got that so I just now need to find the patience to replace it. My windscreen has a chip it in. It was repaired years ago but it's visible and annoys me, so I want that replacing. The cigarette lighter doesn't work. I can't ever remember it working so as I work my way around the car I'll have to get that sorted. The glass in the driver's side sun visor is smashed so I'll need to source another one unless the glass can be removed and replaced? The bodywork has a few little marks here and there, as expected with a 17-year-old car. But I'd eventually like them tidied up. I'll get more photos up as I work my way around the car.
  20. 1 point
    it's a sickening moment when bleeders let go - well done getting it sorted
  21. 1 point
    That's been ruined.
  22. 1 point
    JZW is just the designation VW uses for its four plus range of parts, shocks, brakes, starter motors, alternators etc.... Lupo GTI and 3L are designated the 6E chassis, all other Lupo's are 6X
  23. 1 point
    The ones at the beam are the worst as you don't have much space to play with - start with these then move onto the fronts. Make sure your bleeders are free - carefully soak these too - having a blow torch on standby is a comfort for sticking bleeders. It looks crap fitting old clips onto nice new hoses - Febi clips - suspect you need 6 (2 for the front, 4 at the beam) If you havent got them - Invest in proper brake spanners and vice grips Quite often the nut on the hard pipes will be stuck in place - important to support these as you undo the flexi - so you don't break the hard pipe. You mentioned the original ones were perished, there are also flexi/hardline pipes on each side of the beam going to the calipers, are they Ok?
  24. 1 point
    I arrived home last night from what can only be described as the best Nurburgring trip ever. It was my 5th time over there and it gets better and bettter, the weather was absolutely perfect the whole weekend. I covered 1060 fault free miles including 10 laps! One of those beating my previous PB of 8.49 with an 8.39 I'm sure some of you would have the seen my 'near miss' all over the Nurbrugring instagram and facebook pages lol. I'll leave the video link below if you haven't seen it. The issue was tyre pressures, I wasn't aware of how much you need to keep an eye on the pressures with Nankang AR1's. They raised waty more than I thought they would, I ended up being down to 22psi cold to be at the optimum pressure of 31psi. I was also slightly off line as I had an FK8 Type R behind me which put me under slight pressure. The front of the car just washed out and wouldn't grip. Safe to say I done well to hold it and come out of it with no damage, it knocked my front right camber out about a bit but with a bit of DIY later that evening I got it back to 'eye' perfect and the car felt great the next day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6MD6bfQfpc cgps nyc
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    The car itself is an Ibiza 6K2 SDI, but I have had it for 17 years and over this time I have invested a lot in the car. To give you an idea, at this point the car already has practically all the extras that came out for this model (and some that didn't, but that I adapted from other VAG models) and it looks like a Cupra R. it has 280mm in the front and disc braking in the rear. It has a Cupra suspension, with new shock absorbers, bushes, synoblocks, etc., all new. It has an interior upholstered in leather / alcantra, AC, which has already been adapted by me, immaculate painting, etc., etc. This car never gave any major problems, just problems related to normal wear of the parts. I already replace bearings, driveshafts, clutch, bushes, engine mounts, shock absorbers, alternator, etc. But engine or gearbox was never open for repair.
  27. 1 point
    Yep a total bargain! 6E0 500 047
  28. 1 point
    as said - i sent it out to be rebuilt - yes the seal is pretty common, lots of boxes with 5th gear housing requiring this
  29. 1 point
    Hi Everyone just thought I’d say hello.. I’ve picked up an accident damaged Lupo GTI today on a 52 plate. with only 1 owner from new having covered 63k miles (you might have seen it advertised on eBay) As you can see it needs various front end parts which I’ve managed to mostly source (even the headlight!) however I could do with a O/S wing if anyone has one let me know! Comes with the original documentation, service books and maunuals from new, it even has all 3 keys (1 plastic) so, once repaired it should be a nice appreciating modern classic.. Thanks for reading! simon
  30. 1 point
    I think it’s rear axle first with new oem bushes fitted while it’s off. prices from VW rear axle bushes £45.82 for the pair. new Lupo GTI rear axle £827.27 😬 for those that are interested
  31. 1 point
    I so want to do this to mine
  32. 1 point
    I use 5W40 since my car was new. Now with 400M Km with no engine problems.
  33. 1 point
    I sent my box to a pro to rebuild, try OEN 02T 301 215 - but I'm not 100% sure.
  34. 1 point
    Any feedback welcomed. What would you like to see in the next one?
  35. 1 point
    Welcome to club lupo if temp gauge indicates normal, chances are thermostat is ok. Also my guess is the pumps circulating >water< just fine (no coolant?). so could be gasket, especially if it's bubbling, but oil in water is no definite indicator as the oil cooler is known to fail (and mix nicely), just like @Rich suggests. hey you have nothing to lose by pulling the head off. You could cheap out and reuse the head bolts (measure their torque before undoing them), and if the cam belt is still looking ok, reuse that too (remember the running direction). So just a head gasket for a fiver if you get lucky. Less work than an engine swap for sure. And and please go and get a new radiator from a scrappies. They're like a tenner. You'll want to run a couple (or even 3) dishwasher tablets in the cooling system to clean it out before refilling (then a clear water flush). Use some pink coolant!
  36. 1 point
    You 90% know nothing. Stuck thermostat? Failed impellers on pump. Oil/water mixing at the oil cooler?
  37. 1 point
    That’s my worry. They need doing I’m sure the fluid hasn’t been changed for a while either. I think I have been pretty good at fixing most of the issues the car came with so I’m hoping for a clean bill of health.
  38. 1 point
    Air intake sensor, hidden around the back of the pipe on the left? Causes a check engine light... Been there, done that!
  39. 1 point
    Legend! Thanks mate!
  40. 1 point
    I'm going to do this before recommissioning mine.
  41. 1 point
    Or worse - a tow hitch - holes drilled in the chassis and scotch blocks in the loom. Thats my favourite colour for non Gti Lupo’s
  42. 1 point
    These are the ball joints: 93-90973-156 & 93-90973-256, I ordered through autodoc.
  43. 1 point
    Not much up an update as i keep forgetting to take photos, but. The car is back from the body shop and all back together Got the aftermarket ball joists all fitted and seem like the right fit! ive made up a fibreglass bootlid with integrated boot hinge mounts which needs a lick of paint and will be able to be thrown on the car. I managed to get a Dbilas Dynamic intake manifold, which ive gold tape wrapped and fitted with a thermo spacer intake gasket to try and keep the intake temperatures down (the exhaust up to the 2nd cat has also had exhaust wrap on it). Ive had to re-route my induction kit also. The project silver top mounts id fitted developed a knock after the crash so i have reverted to standard for now. Polycarb windows are in also to replace the smashed ones. The tailgate window and right rear quarter window will need to be done after the next rally. Both seat mounts have had to be replaced as these got pretty bent up in the crash also. Next event is the Bovington stages at the end of the month so will update again after that.
  44. 1 point
    Their the puppies i got to, hopefully they work!
  45. 1 point
    yeah I found that post the other day, was the RTS Spanish Ball joint. 93-90973-156 for right and last 3 digit 256 for left. Looked them up but it says for - 6X1 AND 6E1, but skajme seemed to get the right ones http://www.rts-sa.cn/fr/actualidad/nouvelles-sur-les-produits/93-90973-156256-available-vws-ball-joint-right-left-sides
  46. 1 point
    536418_10150797740875450_529485449_12138372_465185648_n by JensonM, on Flickr 562101_10150791152895923_601450922_12058571_564553808_n by JensonM, on Flickr
  47. 1 point
    Just in relation to my above question, i didnt get any feedback from this of where the above resistor was located, i done a quick search under the dash and located it simply in the passenger footwell, up in the corner under the lower pocket, simply above the small cover thats under their. its held on by two small bolts and their is a connection going in. I took off the resistor and noticed it rusty and cracked, meaning that was the reason my heater would not work on number 1 - 3 . I purchased another resistor pack on ebay, it was off a VW Polo 2001, but it had the same part number as the Lupo, it fitted straight on. simple job, took 10 mins. Hope this helps others who have the same problem of the heater fan not working on number 1 - 3. The part cost 12 pound, buy second hand. The part number is 1J0 819 022 A.
  48. 0 points
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