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Really happy with the stance now. 1.5'' front 2'' back lips and some - camber added to back. Now they are flush with the fender. Color came out nice too although a bit brighter than I was intending.

SDI and tuning in the same breath?! If that's even a 'thing'... Just thought I'd update all you non turbo, diesel tuning people out there. Over the last few months I've been running DLSA150P544 injector nozzles. Same economy on a run, but accelaration torque is way better. Who says you need a turbo? All good, and car 'almost' keeps up with a stock lupo GTi! No access to rolling road at the mo, so no idea what power gain if any. Definitely more torque though. I also adjusted the injection pump quantity adjuster to make it idle at 0.2mg when warm. So a bit more fuelling top end, like 5mg. In theory about 15-20% more fuel. More fuel = more power in a diesel. But. Yesterday my car failed its MOT on emissions. D'oh. Smoke reading when blipped to between 6-7.5. Limit is 0.7 on the plate. Oh. Took it on a quick 20 mile blast to clean anything out, along with some purge in the tank (i don't think the stuff works). Retest. No change. Back to the workshop and had a dig around for some original P745 injectors (0.190mm holes). Chucked em in. Back to tester who was now laughing... Scraped through with an average (after a few tries) of 0.66 smoke. Pass. Moral of the story- you can have more grunt from an SDI, but it's not gonna be legal...

Some of the replacement cheapo temp sensors follow a different 'b-curve'- as in they fitted the wrong thermistor to the sensor. Will give the correct reading at room temp, but when hot completely out. Who knows? Curious problem this....

But the info given by the OP was: If every sensor has been replaced and apparently working what else is there: It is not a definitive answer, but it fits with the info given. interested to hear what is causing this.

Dodgy mot!

I doubt it's an air leak. Or anything to do with the O2 sensor. But- thinking aloud, what makes you think it's running rich all the time? Are the plugs all fouled up with soot? Is there a strong petrol smell all the time from the exhaust? the sensors if ok, will tell you what the ecu is seeing. The ecu only bases it's fuelling on what it sees. What you see is what it sees (the ecu sends the live data to vcds, so you're seeing through the ecu's eyes so to speak...). Check the data from temps, map, O2, TPS. It should become apparent which one isn't playing nicely.

It's obsolete from VW now but the part number was 6X0 803 550 A and should look like a metal bar as shown in yellow below

Your injectors are fine if running rich. Something is telling the ecu to run a rich fuelling map. Usually temp sensor. But could be a number of things or combination. VCDS will tell you what each of the sensors is seeing, so have a look at each, cold and once warmed up.

No problem fella - probably missed in the MOT as it's in the boot. Battery gives of hydrogen when it gets charged - but if over charged it gives off hydrogen sulphide not a big deal in an engine bay, but is if its in the cabin. Just went looking for a PN, but no luck - its a bent piece of metal rod that slots into an opening at the front, sits in the groove around the battery and only one bolt -that you can see in my pic above - at the eye shown below:

Sorry if I am reading between the lines here, but it is the battery box, is your battery not bolted down? It should have a bracket and bolt + the vent goes to the battery, tube connects onto a 90 degree elbow that is usually included with the terminal covers on new batteries: If its not bolted down, it would be an MOT fail as it could move around in a n accident, short out and start a fire.

You have missed the opportunity to take the battery tray out there. I suggest you go back and do so. Especially with the acid. Plastic tube is for venting fumes from the box

Easier to swap it than test, without the right equipment. Otherwise you might be able to rig up a tyre pressure gauge to the output pressure side. Input pressure should be at least 60psi. Not sure what the controlled pressure is on your model. 45psi? But whatever it is, it should be steady. No brakes (very high foot force needed).

Who you gonna call?

I guess I'm in a good position to comment on this! I have a Janspeed cat-back exhaust on my Lupo GTI, not the huge tail pipe version either, exhaust note is perfect, not too loud that it gives you a headache, but loud enough you know it's there. The bore is the same as factory so it doesn't damage any of the back pressure you need, the fit was perfect and was worth every penny of the £350 I spent buying it. I also have a 2019 Up GTI in Tornado red, to say it has no character is doing the car a huge discredit. Sure it's no Lupo GTI, but the car has bagfuls of charisma and I'm loving every drive out in her. Handling is fun, performance is more than adequate, and I'm hoping to remap her soon for around 140ish bhp, plus with an induction kit from Forge Motorsport, I'm hoping for 145-150bhp, which is more than enough for a car of it's size. I highly recommend it!

Yeah, only electric throttles. The old manual ones you DO need to calibrate TPS... with a voltmeter!

It does it every time you switch on... takes a split second. You can hear a whirr click sound. But some TBs come as they are and the ECU doesn't bother, as it compensates while it's running. I wouldn't worry about it TBH. It'll just work.... Only the really early TBs from back around 1991/2 needed a calibration setup as far as I know.

It is self calibrating. You don't need to do anything. All modern VAG electric (motorised) throttle bodies do. The 'off' position gives you enough revs to theoretically get you home, albeit at a slow pace... When messing with my SDI diesel injection pump, I noticed that it works in a very similar way. One quick calibration just after power up. Horrible when you bump start it though or turn the power back on while 'coasting' in gear. If the two TPS outputs don't work perfectly in mirror image voltage output, the ECU discards the data and will go into limp mode. If still like that just after power up (and calibration), it'll stay in limp mode. Otherwise it'll work normally and log an intermittant fault on the TPS (1 or 2, or both) signals. Good fun when bump starting cars with electric throttle bodies (WOT for a moment). But the chaps at bosch rewrote the code so that only the very earliest cars did it.

II don't think David is after any more performance,he just wants a bit of a raspy tone I'd like the same.

A few nice jobs done there,it's coming along nice.

Do everything with the battery off and hope for the best.

I've got a centre silencer delete currently albeit not a very well executed delete! Previous owner just cut out the silencer and put a metal sleeve over it, the pipe doesn't blow but I'm personally not a fan of the noise. From this experience maybe getting a Cobra backbox or any other aftermarket backbox and centre silencer may sound a bit better! Loving the callipers btw!

Don't use it. Might be the cam belt jumped a tooth and you're hearing valve/piston interaction. more details please. What engine?

The debris on top of the filter is normal, they just find their way in there under the scuttle. Water under filter, As Rich says - blocked drains from scuttle into wheel arch. Gurgling Heater may be trapped air

the women in the office just clarified, boob job boobs don't actually bounce that much so natural boobs are better

Remove the arch liners and clear the crap out.

Yes - mine showed up on Monday - and the quality is very good. 🙂

Sounds like the bush in the tower itself. I once replaced one with some chopped around rubber hose.

Check for slop / binding at the shifter mech. You can move the selector thru all gears by hand, but probably need the cables off it first. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163589140615 you can get the bushes in plastic for a lot cheaper.... While there check for slop on the tower as if that moves about it messes with the gear selection as well. It could also be the gear lever mech obstructed or worn.

Have you tried getting gears without the engine runnning? If you can get gears fine with the engine running this would indicate a clutch issue.

Cheers for the replies - the house that we were going to go for has already been sold annoyingly, but on the plus side it means i don't have to sell this on a whim. I'll keep a hold of it a bit longer, i have some plans for it once i finish the Mini, probably next year. Just got back from a big road trip in it through the hills, amazing fun! I haven't poked around this car yet, i'd like to drop the rear beam out and front subframe and clean everything up, have it all powder coated etc and fix the little bits mentioned in my advert. So we will see if i keep it long enough to get round to it. Hopefully it doesn't look like that, it's very easy to get carried away with a screwdriver as i've found out! Although i'd have no issue fixing it myself and would probably enjoy doing so.

Hahaaa, it was an omp cage with an additional brace added to the rear if my memory serves me correct! again yes the front strut brace is OMP althoguh since fitting the car hasnt really had any use so hard to say the benefits...

So learnt a lot of valuable lessons this week, but please correct me if wrong😂 Did my fuel filter yesterday and did the normal process of pulling the fuel pump fuse out and trying to start the car to clear the fuel out of the lines. My smart ass then decided to try and then remove the filter straight away. Unfortunately the hoses wouldn't budge so I ended up pulling and twisting as hard as I could and then forgot it was pressurised so got a face and eye full of V Power... Should I have waited a few hours before pulling the filter out though? Old one did look awful! Had the car emissions tested, I can confirm that the car is definitely over-fuelling and running rich so this headache continues. So far the Pre Cat O2 sensor, Thermostat and Coolant temperature sensor has been changed but it's still running rich!!! I will be changing the MAP Sensor and if that doesn't cure it, change the slightly blowing centre silencer and get it remapped as I'm praying the injectors aren't faulty. Yes getting it remapped may sound like a stupid idea but I genuinely have a suspicion that one of the previous owners has "Chipped" it or done some sort of cheap "remap" that tricks the engine into thinking it's cold to dump more fuel in. It may sound unlikely but this owner was also the guy who couldn't even buy an O2 sensor correctly and bought one that had a wire which was about 6,000,000 feet long but cable tied it so I need to keep the ideas open to the causes of over-fuelling. Took another attempt at repairing the cracked engine cover though but this time used Supa-Fix, works wonders this stuff but we'll see how it holds up against time! In the meantime though, the car hit 199K so nearly in the 200K club and I picked up an original grill with all of the clips intact with the front badge for under £30 so thank the lord for Facebook Group selling

6n2 polo...

Hahaha you lad I've got new shafts on the way now just gonna go through a process of elimination to be honest the car needs the tlc as I've been doing a lot of miles lately so new parts are well welcome to be fitted on in my opinion lol 🤘🏻

CV joint? If gearbox, you'd get a whining usually. If bearing, it gets louder as you go faster.

Probably a fuelling problem. Vapour lock due to clogged fuel filter. Maybe? Could be a dodgy coil pack. Sniff the exhaust when cranking and hot... you shoukd smell raw fuel if ignition (coil pack) problem. If no fuel smell, then fuel problem. oh, don't forget to change both fluids in your auto box next service. Everyone fogets!