mk2

After weekend of messing about, my window is working again. But I don't think I fixed anything at all. Ok, so one of my Lupos decided recently that the passenger side electric window wasn't going to play any more. It was shut and didn't want to open. All it did is make a click sound every time I pressed the down (or up) switch. This happened with both the driver's and passenger's side window control switches. My first thought was that the Central Convenience Module (CCM) had thrown a tantrum as is so often the case in our Lupos. It affects central locking, window behaviour and interior lights (plus a few other bits). Locks were ok, as was the inside light. So I thought I'd check if I could control the windows without using the control switches- by using the door locks. There's a handy feature on all electric window Vdubs where if you want to open all the electric windows at the same time without getting into the car, you simply insert key into driver's door lock and turn it to the unlock position and hold it there for five seconds. (To close them all you lock it for 5 secs.). The driver's window opened no problem. Passenger side; Nothing. By the way, this fault is different to the really common wire rope snapping, the glass clamp breaking loose or the track or pulleys getting jammed (often caused by trying to work the windows when they've been glued shut with ice (or frost). Sticky or slow windows just need some silicone oil sprayed onto the felt window tracks to help them slide more easily. So off with the door cards. Carefully cut or peel the waterproofing membrane away from the top only (to be reused- essential!). Reach in and unplug the motor connector (not easy). Tape the glass up to the top of the door so it doesn't drop down. Reach up and slightly loosen (but don't remove) the two 10mm glass clamp bolts (also not easy). Gently unhook the plastic cable 'X' stay from the door. Unbolt the five 10mm bolts/nuts and carefully remove the entire assembly. So far all pretty standard stuff. At this point you could spend money and just get another new assembly, swap over and reassemble. The following pics I took while working show what you need to do to sort out a clicking motor that doesn't want to work. It's all basically just cleaning and testing. I pulled everything to pieces, cleaned a LOT of dust off the PCB and the two sensors, wiped bits of metal off the magnet ring and washed any carbon brush material off the PCB using brake and clutch cleaner fluid. Then put it all back together again. I couldn't find any faults. My guess is that the bits of metal stuck to the magnet ring messed with the output pulses and carbon brush dust, which conducts electricity partly shorted out the components on the PCB. The relay also appeared to work just fine- you can't test it without removing it from the PCB because 12V goes backwards into the circuit (which would damage it). Trickiest bits are unsoldering the PCB without damaging anything and then putting the brushes back in. An extra pair of hands is useful there. I suspect that during factory assembly, they use a plastic 'loading ring', sliding the rotor in place while a thin rigid plastic tube holds back the brushes. The rest of reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The easy way out would be to simply swap the motor/gearbox over which was my first choice. But they are unique to Lupos/Arosas; I couldn't find one anywhere (for a reasonable price).

Thank you. That is so good to know 👍🏻 Your pics are also very useful.

How did you remove that central bit without pulling out the entire dash?

Curious. As they're so easy to swap, it'd be interesting to see if you get the fault back again by putting the old one back in. Unbelieveable! Well done for persisting I can only imagine that the trigger point/position of the non OEM part is in a slightly different place, knocking the timing out by maybe half a tooth.

PM'd

Was the crank sensor ever replaced to your knowledge?

I'd be very surprised if it was the cam sensor, as the ECU wouldn't see anything if it was out. At least it's an easy quick swap.

Replace your chain tensioner while the sump is off, especially if you're thinking of keeping the car for a while. They generally snap after about 120k miles.

Yeah, you never really want to go much above 3.5 bar / 50 PSI oil pressure. I once modded an engine to up the oil pressure to about 90 PSI and kept blowing everything. Even the oil filter split. What matters is the oil pressure at idle when the engine is roasting hot. At least 20-30 PSI (2 bar). Different types of oil will give different oil pressures. You only need two molecules of oil to separate friction surfaces...

Yeah the 1.2 auto-manual gearbox is different. The hydraulic systems that do the gear changes do make a different noise, but should be almost silent (below the engine noise). @RAB will know the answer.

I'd have 'em just as a set of spares. Look like they're in good nick with no rips, creases or tears. Anyone heading down south any time? Passing High Wycombe (M40) or Reading (M4)? I never ever go up north... too cold.

Try here https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?cn=DE&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=25200&makeModelVariant1.modelDescription=Gti&makeModelVariant1.modelId=21&maxPowerAsArray=PS&minPowerAsArray=PS&scopeId=C&sfmr=false&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&usage=USED and here https://www.milanuncios.com/volkswagen-lupo-de-segunda-mano/?fromSearch=1&potencia=150

What axles do you use?

Looks like it's been soldered. No clip!

I've never seen a throttle body fail. Actually not true, I did once on a lawn mower. Usually what happens is that they get gummed up and simply need a good clean and lube. The butterfly valve bearings can get sticky making precise adjustment difficult (what you need around idle). The TPS (throttle position sensor) can fail or become loose, so it reports to the computer that the throttle is in a different postion to what it actually is, leading to wierd running- but that's easy to check with diagnostics. My guess is that it just needs a clean.

I have a Phaeton that is going full custom, which might be done by August. A 9N3 polo that needs a full body rework, two of my Lupos... And that dreadful Mk4. Urgh. And I would like to make a start on the UK's only mk2 Golf country- in RHD, with a 1.9 PDI 130. There are enough fully restored minters out there already, so it's not really sacrilege. And in between I need to earn some money going to work. Seriously, I'll be honest and say I don't think it'll happen. I can help out on quick jobs that take an hour or two, but being your pride and joy, I know if it were me, you'll want the full restoration.

Easy enough job. Pull it out and have a look

Me. I'm flat out doing projects right now. I can't fit anything in, but will help best I can on here; while I'm having a cuppa.

With used engines, it's usually a gamble, but I've only ever had one that had to be returned. Usually, to check the quality of a used engine before fitting it, you have a good look at the cam shaft and followers. It is a good indicator of wear. Also the plug tip colours of the old plugs. And the surface of the flywheel, where it rubs on the clutch. Ultimately, you'll only really know if it's any good after 5h of refitting it and then starting it up. And once it's properly heated up and all the running clearances are open again. Milage doesn't seem to affect engines that much. An engine that's been used to drive kids to school and back and poodle down to the local shops and back, that may only have 25k miles on it, may be much more worn than a 200k mile engine that has been used on nothing but motorway miles by a sales rep. It's the heating and cooling cycles that do the most damage (running an engine cold).

If you can get that nut off, simply put a big penny washer in place to hold it. 2p fix...

It'd be so so so much cheaper to simply get a secondhand engine. You can have one delivered to your door or local mechanic. A basic engine swap and full service would be something like £500 I'd guess, plus the cost of the engine. Any local mechanic should be able to do that. It's a pretty basic job. A full rebuild; crank regrind, rebore, new pistons, rehone, new cam, tappets, rebuilt head, full bearing set, gasket set, oil pump and other bits would cost well over £1k. Plus the cost of removing and fitting the engine. If it's smokey after idling, it might just need some valve stem seals, which any local mechanic could do in about 3h. If blue smoke under full power and high revs, then yes, piston rings probably are probably a gonner = engine worn out. And lastly, welcome to club lupo

Welcome to Club Lupo Can elaborate on the fault or symptoms a bit more?

@Rich is right. If that breaks off, fuel everywhere. Fire? Loss of grip going round a corner? Breakdown in remote location? Game over in just about every scenario.

fuel return to tank cooler. The pump squishes the fuel a lot and it gets hot. so before chucking any unused fuel back in the tank, they cool it. After a blast in rainy weather you can get steam rising up from under the car as you open the door. Wierd...

I hope the bushes they put in the new arms/wishbones are good. When I did that they only lasted about 2 years. Then I bought just the bushes on their own (decent brand) and are still like new 3 years later. But we have rough country roads around here.