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Camber


forsh21
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Hi Guys,

Right just had my car into the garage to have the camber set because its killing my tyres think it's at like -3, so i wanted it setting at like -1 but the guy at the garage said he can't change the camber due to how low the car is, is this bull**** or not?

i was just looking at fattys pictures of is lupo and its no lower than that. And my steering is pretty heavy to is this due to the camber?

Please help

Cheers

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hmmm if you want to get the car set up properly you need to take it to a specialist garage, or one that deals with performance cars.

or try loosening the 2 bottom bolts that attatch the coilover to the hub assembly, and grab the top of disc and pull towards you as far as i will go. then hold it there and tighten the bolts back up.(probably be good to have a spare set of hands for this)

that will still not get you 0 degrees camber, maby 1.5-2 degrees.

also heard people file the bottom bolt holes longer to get 0 degrees.

hope this helps and sorry for the bad spelling, welsh is my 1st language lol

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have you got gti coilovers or some crappy ta's? I *think* that ta's cause that camber because they're made for non gti's? could be talking utter crap here btw, but i'm sure i've read something along them lines before....

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I think the issue here is:

the garage cant get the brace to set-up the tracking between your wheel and arch. :shades:

this is awesome because it means you are low enough.

The reason DS360 is okay is he has 13's and even on ultimate drop you can still get a the tracking brace around the wheel.

also -3 is a hideous amount of camber for road use dude :wacko:

I have also experienced garages being unwilling to work on my cars because they haven't done the work themselves

and see at as substandard.

best bet is to go somewhere that deals with modified cars.

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I'm running FK coilovers not to sure which one's tho, back on the standard GTi wheels and he's test it to see if he can get the equipment on which he can. He's saying that he can't do it because something to do which the camber is on full adjustment so i said "why not just adjust it back then" his reply "you can't on lowered cars"

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Yeah, if it's as far positive it will go you will either have to file the strut holes out in the coilovers to give more adjustment, or buy camber bolts (I don't really know what these are though. :lol:)

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probably not the camber causing the tire munching.

Although it will cause uneven and directional wear; they will barely wear faster than normal.

It'll be the tracking.

For which there is plenty of adjustment as it has to do with the track rods.

Go back and ask for your tracking done and I'm sure the fella will comply.

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Just slacken the camber bolts and pull the hub towards you as much as possible, and then you will know it's at the limits of adjustment.

The thread on the coilover shaft has nothing to do with adjusting the camber.

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The thread on the coilover shaft has nothing to do with adjusting the camber.

It does indirectly, the lower you go the more negative camber you get on most suspension setups.

Look at the rear wheels on a stock car vs. lowered car. You'll see the camber on the lowered car is more negative.

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It does indirectly, the lower you go the more negative camber you get on most suspension setups.

Look at the rear wheels on a stock car vs. lowered car. You'll see the camber on the lowered car is more negative.

That isn't the coilover that is causing it though, it's the fact that you haven't adjusted or don't have the ability to adjust other suspension components.

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That isn't the coilover that is causing it though, it's the fact that you haven't adjusted or don't have the ability to adjust other suspension components.

If you fix the bolt in the same position on the coilover as on a standard strut and you set the coilover to -100mm and the standard to -30mm the -100mm will have more negative camber.

That's what I mean.

The suspension isn't at exactly 90 degrees to the car so camber doesn't remain the same as the drop changes.

So if the lad has it set to max positive and it's still too negative raising the car in the interim will help remove some negative camber...

Edited by richie.guy
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Yes, but it's irrespective of how much or little you adjust the suspension it will alter the camber however if it's lowered correctly then all of the other components should be adjusted at the same time. It isn't the lowering introducing the camber, it's the lack of further geometry adjustment.

By raising the suspension all he'll achive is to need the geometry set up again and then when he lowers the car further he'll face the same problem.

Your suggestion isn't fixing the problem only minimising the symptoms.

Edited by treblet
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So you're saying you don't have to adjust the camber more (make it more positive) on a car lowered 100mm than compared with a car lowered 30mm?

If so, that's not right!

If it's pulled as far positive as it goes and it's still too negative raising it will remove negative, but it's not the solution only a quick fix till he gets it sorted (if it's killing his tyres then it's easily done).

Edited by richie.guy
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Of course, any change in height will knock camber and track out. Any change in camber will knock the track out.

Hence saying it should all be done at the same time to avoid prematurely killing tyres and the car driving like it's on ice.

I think we agree it just didn't come across that way :P

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It does indirectly, the lower you go the more negative camber you get on most suspension setups.

Look at the rear wheels on a stock car vs. lowered car. You'll see the camber on the lowered car is more negative.

Yes I am fully aware of that, I just didn't want to confuse the OP any more by letting him think he could set his camber by adjusting the coilover height.

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Right so wheel off slacken the two bolts pull the hub out as far as it will go tighten bolts back up same on the other side and take it to the garage for the tracking to be set up does that sound right?

bingo! give it a go

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Right so wheel off slacken the two bolts pull the hub out as far as it will go tighten bolts back up same on the other side and take it to the garage for the tracking to be set up does that sound right?

Pull them then check the camber IMO

If it's still out then either file the slots like people on here do or get some camber bolts.

Sort the camber then get tracking done.

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i would fit a set of these before you take it back to the garage,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Eibach-Front-Camber-Bolts-VW-Lupo-6X-98-05-/270611884108?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f01b9a84c

these should give you plenty of movement both + and -

even if you elongate the top location hole on the strut you might not get enough movement

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