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Yeah, NoS is a phase change system after all, very simple but quite high maintenance (needs gas all the time).

I want sth to be maintenance free with minimum or no moving parts.

Refrigeration unit unit would be much better but more complicated and more expensive with roughly the same amout of cooling gained from the same power drain on cars alternator.

I did some reading and thought about the whole thing a bit more and the best thisng to do on top of charge cooling would be to reduce volumetric capacity of charge cooling system.

ELSA diagrams show wery well how looong is stoct 1.4TDi system. I think I should be able to reduce it's stock capacity by 75% improving turbo response (earlier 'turbo kick')

badger5, have you got any pictures of your wifes 1.8T Peltier chargecooler you are willing to shre here?

I cant imagine 2 x 65w coolers are goign to have any effect on alternator drag..LOL it aint going to happen is it. Headlights on anyone?

Ideally a decent sized `pre-rad` will do most of the cooling work, so the peltiers can work at sub ambient cooling not cooling generally. I've not completed the system for peltiers yet, but when its done and working i'll post up some info.

regards

bill

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65watters, you must be taking a piss out of me! LOL

Not even worth trying imho. I am going to go for two or four 472watters dude smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />.

The above to be effective and power efficient you need to `pre-cool` the charge to ambient temps.

What I want to do is to use water cooled first stage `pre-cooler` to do the job, only then install some very special heat exchanger(s) which are going to be peltier cooled.

I managed to sort out finaces to get all the necessary milling equipment, I am buying the lot by the end of this month (~£200). Then I'll make one test heat exchanger for testing purposes and if that goes well I will start producing the final prototype units.

The only thing I need now is some clever design for charge piping routing (materials as well!). Idea;;y I'd like to 'hard fix' the lot since there will be no rigid connection between the charge delivery system and chassis - all fixed directly to turbo at the bottom and engine intake at the top.

The key to the sucess of this project lays in heat exchanger design=efficiency smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Getting back to BMC. They make direct replacement element for TDi engines, is it worth spending the dosh on it?

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QUOTE(Jabo)
65watters, you must be taking a piss out of me! LOL

Not even worth trying imho. I am going to go for two or four 472watters dude smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />.  

The above to be effective and power efficient you need to `pre-cool` the charge to ambient temps.

What I want to do is to use water cooled first stage `pre-cooler` to do the job, only then install some very special heat exchanger(s) which are going to be peltier cooled.

I managed to sort out finaces to get all the necessary milling equipment, I am buying the lot by the end of this month (~£200). Then I'll make one test heat exchanger for testing purposes and if that goes well I will start producing the final prototype units.

The only thing I need now is some clever design for charge piping routing (materials as well!). Idea;;y I'd like to 'hard fix' the lot since there will be no rigid connection between the charge delivery system and chassis - all fixed directly to turbo at the bottom and engine intake at the top.

The key to the sucess of this project lays in heat exchanger design=efficiency smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Getting back to BMC. They make direct replacement element for TDi engines, is it worth spending the dosh on it?

WTF are you on about??.... There's a thing called a `pre-rad` which takes the high thermal load for heat exchange.. Peltiers left to do the rest.. System ballast (capacity) vs on boost time. I'm talking Chargecooler with added Peltier coolers. What are you on about? Peltier only LOL? :?

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Chiill doode smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I am talking two stage charge cooler here. Find 2nd stage intercooler thread and it is described there in more detail:)

There are three main things going on here:

1. decrease charge cooling system volumetric capacity (pressure increase without additional load on turbo)

2. Install first stage charge cooler getting charge temp to ambient (`air-to`-water heat exchanger)

3. build 2nd stage charge cooler taking charge temps below ambient (TEC modules aka Peltiers)

What are YOU talking about ?

BTW, how are you going to cool your peltiers?

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QUOTE(Jabo)
Chiill doode smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I am talking two stage charge cooler here. Find 2nd stage intercooler thread and it is described there in more detail:)

There are three main things going on here:

1. decrease charge cooling system volumetric capacity (pressure increase without additional load on turbo)

2. Install first stage charge cooler getting charge temp to ambient (`air-to`-water heat exchanger)

3. build 2nd stage charge cooler taking charge temps below ambient (TEC modules aka Peltiers)

What are YOU talking about ?

BTW, how are you going to cool your peltiers?

I am just talking Peltiers in return line from `pre-rad` back to bottle.

Air to air heatsinks on peltiers to try and dissipate the heat.. sited on top of `pre-rad` so it gets some air passing past it.

Decrease charge cooling volume? less water in your water/air heat exchanger yea? Rely totally on very good heat exchange across `pre-rad`. OK if `pre-rads` sized right.

good luck with your system.

For note: I USED to run chargecooler but removed it for large FMIC on my 20VT Ibiza as its was not up to the load on constant on boost duty. (track use) FMIC exceeded CC performance significantly with a more robust race track friendly solution. Lupo has the old CC as its has both no space and is a road car, so should be fine. (Peltiers being an added toy if they work out)

good luck with your system

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  • 3 weeks later...

How different would you say the Lupo GTi engine installation is to a Polo GTi one?

Reason for why is my new Green Catalogue (which I supply) has arrived with a new range of remote filters for models... but Polo GTi is listed and no Lupo's.

Was wondering if anyone would be interested in seeing if its possible for Polo one to fit Lupo one if I was to get one in to look see.

anyone interested?

cheers

Bill

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QUOTE(Tigz)
I think the Polo and Lupo GTis shared the same engine.

You'll find Bill that companys dont bother advertiseing for a Lupo.

Although most of the parts are `inter-changable`.

Thats what I thought, so the Green Induction kit I've seen should be possible to use.. 3 options on the thing too, and I know it will look & sound mint.

So all I need now is a volunteer.. smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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QUOTE(Dare)
Do they have cold air feeds?

I had a green induction kit on my polo 16v and it did sound alright but it looked pretty crap and due to it not having a cold air feed (or means to attach one) it was completely pointless, so i got rid!

One of them is an enclosed filter to which an 80mm flexi can be added, and the other 2 are open cones with a cold air feed pipe directed towards them... The connection to the t'body is a polished alumium jobbie with connection point for breather also... (as far as I can tell from the picture)

http://www.`green-filter`.com/nav1...talogueAUTO.pdf and scroll down to page 99 to see listings.. & pictures at the top of the page.

Prices, reading from left to right:

`SU027-single` cone £105.90

`SD027-twin` cone £156.99

`ST027-Twister` £176.99

Twister is enclosed one..

regards

bill

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80mm flexi can be added
Is it designed to have a cold air feed attached like a BMC kit? and "Flexi" Is that the cheap silver stuff? (the stuff i got with my green induction kit)

I wouldnt mind trying one for free, but for that price (`ST027-Twister` £176.99) i would stick with a bmc! as they are designed to have a cold air feed, sound great and look good to.

P.s couldnt seem to get the link to work

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QUOTE(Dare)
80mm flexi can be added
Is it designed to have a cold air feed attached like a BMC kit? and "Flexi" Is that the cheap silver stuff? (the stuff i got with my green induction kit)

I wouldnt mind trying one for free, but for that price (`ST027-Twister` £176.99) i would stick with a bmc! as they are designed to have a cold air feed, sound great and look good to.

P.s couldnt seem to get the link to work

The flexi I have from Green is'nt thre foil stuff no, but impregnated nylon cloth with steel reinforcing wire. Very flexible.

It is designed with cold air feed as thats what the Twister is. (CAI)

Nothings for free, but I am trying to see what may fit Lupo. (with it being a car mostly ignored)

I sell lots of Green filters, mostly Dyantwist kits for 1.8T's etc, which are Twister filters, cold air feed pipes etc.. The new "`Speed-R`" stuff looks new and fresh so I am just exploring what might fit and suit Lupo.

Twister is a good looking product also.. and are also available in colours and carbon or even clear housings.

The "`Speed-R`" stuff doe slook to have the crank vent pipes req'd tho in the pictures.. I'll have to get one to look see perhaps.

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QUOTE(Dare)
That sounds good! :wink:  Get some piccys up if you can.

Theres plenty of Northern lads on here and im sure one of them would be willing to help test one out. smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

There's a picture being emailed to me from Green so I'll post it up when it lands. (new product so info is sketchy)

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