Jabo

What camera are you using now? First of all do not shoot in auto mode. Go to full manual but read widely available tutorials on what settings mean and how to apply them to get pro-photos, even from a point and shoot slab.

John, all the contributors and lurkers! I have not posted on ClubLupo for about 6 years... This thread almost got me fired today as I spent whole day reading it... What is really amazing is the fact that you John have that unique mentality and skill where you just get there with your tools, take thinks apart, understand them and put them back together better than they were meant to be! I really enjoyed the "ride" today and would like to thank you for all your hard work, dedication and massive stubbornness while battling the odds, failures and enjoying the huge success of your built. Truly inspiring! Some thinks stuck in my mind. One was when you commented early on that placing intake in the engine bay would not make a difference and then tens of pages later saying how a single degree of charge temp made few hps difference J. Then there was that series of photos where you had those shiny pipage polished beside crockery and cutlery on th kitchen table. At that point I though “ Surely, either missus kicked him together with the table service to the garage or she left and John took over the kitchen” ! The last one was the poor Loopstach completely vivisected in the new garage – I do not envy you all the work putting it all back together mind you! Keep up the good work and “never give up”! Sent you pm as well Many thanks Peter

style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Welcome tothe club m8 8)

I'd tend to go with bossjohn here. Te cheapest I've seen enywhere in UK and Deutsch speaking countries (`6-CD` `in-dash` changers) were for ~£140 and they were only available in the country of a seller (no shipping to anywhere else than Germany, Belgium etc). Usual price hovers around £200, which is still 50% of new price anyways style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

It all sounds logical. I asked that question at local stealers and they said I can do whatever I wish to my car as long as I use original VW parts and 'processes' then my warranty would be fully valid. I dunno for fact since I have not tried it on my own skin yet...

www.digitec.de ??? - hmmm. would most certainly come handy If I wanted to trade from my car LOL

QUOTE(Bikerz)and u can get away with telling mr. incurance man about a chip as they are invbisible!Depends how big an accident you cause - big nuff and it is going to be discovered, you may count on that:) The last tiem I checked K&N didn't have a replacement filter elements for 1.4TDi engine. BMC do them and they seem to be of better pedigree than K&N imho. `Re-mapping` is he best value for money imaginable - should be the first mod on every TDi owner's list style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> The second one (or first if £££ are not there) would be to go for Eibach springs and ARBs. Exhaust is not worth doing at all unless you want ot install NoS or other mods like bigger injectors and custom made charge cooling system

@poloace - do you do TDi maps as well?

You mean Loop going backwards, right? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Chiill doode style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> I am talking two stage charge cooler here. Find 2nd stage intercooler thread and it is described there in more detail:) There are three main things going on here: 1. decrease charge cooling system volumetric capacity (pressure increase without additional load on turbo) 2. Install first stage charge cooler getting charge temp to ambient (`air-to`-water heat exchanger) 3. build 2nd stage charge cooler taking charge temps below ambient (TEC modules aka Peltiers) What are YOU talking about ? BTW, how are you going to cool your peltiers?

HE he he, everybody seems to be itching to get it done at porka.net style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Keeps us poseted!

Maybe because it is not there ? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Haven't got round to `re-installing` ELSA yet after HDD failure so can't help here yet style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

65watters, you must be taking a piss out of me! LOL Not even worth trying imho. I am going to go for two or four 472watters dude style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />. The above to be effective and power efficient you need to `pre-cool` the charge to ambient temps. What I want to do is to use water cooled first stage `pre-cooler` to do the job, only then install some very special heat exchanger(s) which are going to be peltier cooled. I managed to sort out finaces to get all the necessary milling equipment, I am buying the lot by the end of this month (~£200). Then I'll make one test heat exchanger for testing purposes and if that goes well I will start producing the final prototype units. The only thing I need now is some clever design for charge piping routing (materials as well!). Idea;;y I'd like to 'hard fix' the lot since there will be no rigid connection between the charge delivery system and chassis - all fixed directly to turbo at the bottom and engine intake at the top. The key to the sucess of this project lays in heat exchanger design=efficiency style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Getting back to BMC. They make direct replacement element for TDi engines, is it worth spending the dosh on it?

I can't agree with you on that one Tgiz (standard Lupo is not boring at all!) but the Fox looks like a f00king pug! What a shame, VW must have hired a kettle designer to come up with such a generic kak... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

Spotted on my way from work, Y98 plates, it wasn't GTi nor TDi (narrow tyres, couldn't see the fron due to rain and darkness) driven by female, Borehamwood, Herts

My Loop does between 47.6 to 49.8 miles to gallon - not too stellar but I am one big ******* and I like to feel the power. There's one bit of dual carriageway going uphill from a round about on my work route where everybody with any guts would test their cars power. That's where many drivers of seemingly fast but heavy cars geet nasty surprises style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Sorry to hear about your accident mate style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" /> What's important is that you are all right (you did go to a doctor, didn't you?) Stay with Loop! Imho it is one great testimony towards safey of this little number that after such a nasty write off you were fine! Keep your spirits up, salvage what you can from the wreck and get yourself 1.4 TDi style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":twisted:" border="0" alt="twisted.gif" />

Can I have a suggestion? Waht about tying it together with one of the F1 races? Nurburgring is May 29 and Hockenheim is July 24? Friday and Monday off work and one fantastic petrol head weekend?

C001 ! Do we have an official conformation of the date? Can I bring a friend of mine in Golf MKIII GTi (I think it is MKIII :oops: ). I haven't asked him yet but would like to know if there is a point in asking him at all style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />. What about paintballing, is it still next day?

I am currently in a process of filling in some legal paper work connected with my recent accident ('Lost my virginity:(' thread) and I have one question for you guys. There is a section there about deprectiation in `re-sale` value resulted from accident. It is going to show up in Police database so anybody buying the car from me in some time would be able to see it. What in your opinion is likely extent of value drop in such a situation? Thanks!

May sound stupid but have you checked the belt which drives your alt? I wouldn't bet on ECU if it's intermittent- computers either work or not (unless thye have hard drives, active cooling and windoze installed that is ) bad earthing and moisture around/inside ECU or alt sound likely... keep us updated

Yeah, NoS is a phase change system after all, very simple but quite high maintenance (needs gas all the time). I want sth to be maintenance free with minimum or no moving parts. Refrigeration unit unit would be much better but more complicated and more expensive with roughly the same amout of cooling gained from the same power drain on cars alternator. I did some reading and thought about the whole thing a bit more and the best thisng to do on top of charge cooling would be to reduce volumetric capacity of charge cooling system. ELSA diagrams show wery well how looong is stoct 1.4TDi system. I think I should be able to reduce it's stock capacity by 75% improving turbo response (earlier 'turbo kick') badger5, have you got any pictures of your wifes 1.8T Peltier chargecooler you are willing to shre here?

agreed Crusoe, by just rerouting stock piping, ditching stock `air-to`-air inter and installing `water-to`-air one it is possible to gain 40 -60% pressure increase style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

It is so generic, no character whatsoever. Before I bought my Loop I searchd far and wide for sth small, TDi with bags of power and modding potential and lots of character - only Lupo MK1 fits the bill 100% adding VW qually to the equation. 'New Lupo' is not a Lupo and should be renamed. They are right planning on seeling it in Europe under name 'Fox'

Interesting:) I haven't got one though style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />