Creliseth Posted March 21, 2023 Report Share Posted March 21, 2023 As the title says, while I was overtaking the truck, my engine all of the sudden decided to die. I managed to stop by the road and after that, it wouldn't start up again at all. First thing that crossed my mind was timing belt, but it didn't break. I took everything apart when I got back home to see if the belt jumped a teeth or something, but everything was normal. Timing belt was already loose a bit, but it has been that way past 10k km. After the engine died, (while trying to stop safely) only battery light came on. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with the engine and why it won't start again? Will a compression test be enough to verify if valves and pistons came into contact (had similar situation with 147, but in that case my timing belt broke)? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted March 21, 2023 Report Share Posted March 21, 2023 Crank sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 21, 2023 Report Share Posted March 21, 2023 If the glow plug light comes on then I'd say crank and cam sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creliseth Posted March 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2023 12 hours ago, mk2 said: Crank sensor? How can I test this? Multimeter maybe? I took off timing belt and right now, cranking the engine is not the option. Will I be able with disconnected CPS to start the engine? 6 hours ago, Rich said: If the glow plug light comes on then I'd say crank and cam sensor. I really can't remember if glow plug light came on, I only remember battery light and engine not receiving any gas. I was too focused on trying to stop safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted March 22, 2023 Report Share Posted March 22, 2023 If cam sensor failed, you'll always get a warning light. It might be the loom. Loom failures are very common on 1.4 tdis. Try swapping the crank sensor first. You get a resistance meter reading of under 2k ohms if ok. If high resistance, then the coil is toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Penguin Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Have you checked the obvious like battery connection and fuel delivery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creliseth Posted May 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2023 Well, I finally managed to find some time to focus on Lupo, sorry for not posting frequently. After I had car towed back to my place, the very next day it decided to start without any problems. I had my local mechanic take a look at it, and nothing showed up on diagnostics so I only had him change my timing belt along with pulleys and water pump. It turns out, whenever the engine warms up completely, this problems comes back, it just dies while driving and it won't restart until it cools down and chills for a while. So, I've bought new crank sensor and coolant temp sensor. I only managed to change coolant temp sensor, but I can't figure out how to approach crank sensor. What's the best way to take it out and put in the new one? Do I have to take off oil filter housing, can it be done from underneath the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 17, 2023 Report Share Posted May 17, 2023 It can be done from above if you have to. Sounds like a crank sensor but you should also see if there's a hot relay when it happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creliseth Posted May 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2023 5 minutes ago, Rich said: Sounds like a crank sensor but you should also see if there's a hot relay when it happens. Thanks, I'll try to tackle with it tomorrow. Do you know by any chance what size is 12 point screw holding the sensor? Which relay should I look for? I've read somewhere that 109 relay can cause this problem when car gets hot, but I don't think that's my case because relay seems to be fine and even when engines dies, fuel pump still works and buzzes when ignition is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigcraft Posted May 19, 2023 Report Share Posted May 19, 2023 109 caused a load of **** on mine till I bought a new one. Less than £10!! It broke down regularly and I was **** scared to us it on motorway. It always worked when cooled down. It’s under the steering column. If it’s too hot to keep your hand on it then it’s ready for a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creliseth Posted May 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2023 2 hours ago, tigcraft said: If it’s too hot to keep your hand on it then it’s ready for a new one. I'll def try this tomorrow. Sadly, crank sensor didn't solve my problem. If anyone wonders how I removed and installed new sensor, you can just unscrew oil filter housing cooler and move it out of way. Then you can use just regular 9mm combination wrench and torture yourself next hour or so removing the bolt holding the sensor and then reinstalling it. Would recommend it if you are masochist! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 20, 2023 Report Share Posted May 20, 2023 If the relay works I want many likes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 21, 2023 Report Share Posted May 21, 2023 (edited) I'll go through all your recent posts @Rich and give you loads... Edited May 21, 2023 by mk2 Done... an extra 25 will help get you there... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 22, 2023 Report Share Posted May 22, 2023 Hahahaha, I was simply taking the piss Have a TT pic as thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 22, 2023 Report Share Posted May 22, 2023 Oh, I like them wheels... Almost Delorean? for posting that, I'll now have to go back and remove them all again. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creliseth Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 I forgot once again to keep this topic up to date, but the car is finally FIXED. Turns out, seal on injector number 3 was leaking and this was somehow causing the engine to randomly shut off. I tested it for about 1k km and it didn't leave me stranded again. Only thing that failed in a meantime was injectors loom, which caused the engine to work on 2 cylinders, but I just ordered a new one and all was good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted August 24, 2023 Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 I don't think the seal on inj 3 would cause it shut off, unless it failed catastophically, where ALL the fuel goes into the oil. It'd misfire a bit and gradually get worse... If the whole engine simply suddenly stops providing any power, that's usually an electrical problem, like crank sensor, fuel pump, power relay, that sort of thing. Or even a loose connection. Maybe the return power bus on the injector solenoid loom was loose, which is ok now, because the injector loom has been replaced? It's a wierd problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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