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Drivers front wheel catching arch


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Another post I need to investigate.

So my drivers front wheel seems to be slightly further back into the arch than the passenger side. Symptoms causing it to catch (only seems to be when reversing) and tyre is therefore rubbing on the inner arch lining. It seems to have got progressively worse.

Had it MOTd and checked over and they can't see any obvious previous crash damage, everything is tight and secure (had new bottom arms, ball joints etc fitted a couple months back) 

Basically if I put my fingers into the gap between the tyre and the end of the arch towards the door, on the passenger side I can get 4 fingers straight in. But drivers it's only 2 and a bit (will try and get a tape measure for more accurate difference)

I've had it tracked a couple of times since this issue became apparant, and getting it done again tomorrow after replacing ball joint on the passenger side (my fault for using cheap eBay specials last time!) 

Any suggestions? I'm guessing @mk2will be my best bet 😂 thanks in advance, ste.

Ps, arosa 1.4 TDI for reference.

Edited by Stephenmacleod
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Stephen of course you have checked your, what i call as a wing liner also know as a splash guard is in its proper place, with all/ most of its retaining clips in their right homes? then taking it the car hasnt had a bang in that area before and had a botched repair? then the simplest thing is something is bent,  a bottom arm/wishbone or the stub axle or hub some call it, i have  seen  and driven different motors that had had the tracking done, showing all okbut   with a bent  stub/hub. take the car somewhere with a dusty yard where you can do a full circle on full lock one full left then once full right,  then check the imprint left in the sand or dust. If the wheel on the side your having the problem with is kicked out any the track left behind while on full lock  will  be wider

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Ball joints are off set so depending on which way round you choose you can move the wheel forward or backwards by swapping left to right and vice versa. I had wrong wishbones in my Arosa tdi and learnt the hard way but discovered I could have a shorter or longer wheelbase 

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Hi Tig hows things? i have`nt  ever messed about with a lupo/arosa ball joint ever  maybe? golfs? plenty but they are held in by m10 nuts and bolts  in 3 sloted areas to allow inwards or outwards adjustment.    are luparosa  not the same? i understand as you say  they are off set  left or right, so clearly this could be Stephens problem.... 

Edited by Roadrash
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I had a mess around when I replaced my wishbones with lesser quality ones. First off the new items came with ball joints that wouldn’t tighten correctly as the bolts were soft metal. So I replaced those but the wheels didn’t sit right in the arches. Then I got a grinding noise on hard braking on the NS. Found that the drive shaft was touching the subframe on very heavy braking that was down to  the wishbones being shorter by 8mm. Swapped them for the correct ones and fitted both ball joints the other way round.  Magic

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  • 2 weeks later...

just wanted to update and say got this resolved with a subframe re-alignment.

On 2/7/2023 at 9:49 PM, tigcraft said:

I had a mess around when I replaced my wishbones with lesser quality ones. First off the new items came with ball joints that wouldn’t tighten correctly as the bolts were soft metal. So I replaced those but the wheels didn’t sit right in the arches. Then I got a grinding noise on hard braking on the NS. Found that the drive shaft was touching the subframe on very heavy braking that was down to  the wishbones being shorter by 8mm. Swapped them for the correct ones and fitted both ball joints the other way round.  Magic

tbf I actually had this issue where the bolts for the ball joints actually rattled out, had bought ebay special bottom arms. replaced the ball joints with some NAPAs and all good now!

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