agilecanonbal Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hey guys, really hoping someone can help. My sdi lupo has a horrible clunking when on full steering lock, quite bad on full left lock, can feel it through the car, also happens on full right lock but not quite as bad, but still obvious. It's had new drop links, new outer cv joints, anti roll roll bar is nice and tight, just don't know what to do next! The car has been lowered on coilies approx 65 to 70 mm, some mechanics have said inner cv joints and some say the differential is on its way out, and some have said that due to the car being lower it's placing extra stress on inner cv joints, No one seems to know and I've spent a fair bit already, so hoping someone with actual knowledge/ experience of this can please help me, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weslangdon Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Have you kept your original struts and springs, if you have I'd re fit them. The diesels carry considerably more front weight than the petrol engines as a consequence of this the factory fit beefed up front suspension, reduce the ride height by 2 and a half inches and you are creating stresses that were never anticipated. You also risk your sump too. Sorry to be negative but when style affects your ability to drive you know that it's not worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 I think it's your inner cv joints to. Lowering out stress on everything espicially at 70mm but usually cv joints, ball joints are driveshafts. Depending on fwd or rwd. But lowz over driving though. Just wait until whatever breaks. Then you will know what was at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) Right guys, have bought another car to keep me going whilst I try and sort this, hence delayed response.Things done so far....New lower arms,New drop links,New CV joints,Mechanics rekon inner CV joints are alright(don't know how they check them)Now beleive it's the differential on it's way out! So gonna have to get a recon done on the gearbox, was considering just getting rid of the car but as I've come this far might as well carry on!has anyone had issues with their gearbox? Drives great in a straight line with no whining,and when turning,only on full lock does it clunk, so bad you feel it through the car,can't be suspension related as once full lock is reached the steering obviously is not turning any more, and also has been checked! Thinking I've just gotta bite the bullet and recon the diff!so much for vag reliability hey!?!...Also, as many people have lowered their cars more than mine and run around just fine, is it just pot luck that they don't get these kind of problems? Starting to lose faith lol, thanks again for the help so far guys. Edited September 13, 2015 by agilecanonbal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) I think it having to be full lock steering before clunking is trying to tell you something. I dont think that is the diff.You can eliminate the steering input as a cause by doing the one wheel in the air thing i said previously (you have two threads on this)To eliminate the steering input:jack one wheel off the ground by about 1 inch so if it comes off the jack it doesnt have far to fall. Drive it in 1st gear above idle. The diff is now driving one wheel and is behaving as if on full lock internally, your steering input now should be having no effect on the diff.You can stress the diff, cv joints and suspension of the driven wheel by gently applying the brakes, if you over do this it will pull itself off the jack, but you'd have to be a complete numpty to do that!Repeat the other side.If you still only get your knocking on full lock when doing this it is not the diff itself that is the problem.if it doesnt happen under these circumstances, then the only thing changed is the ride height of the driven wheel in the air, stick a jack under the suspension arm and raise it to normal ride height while it is in the air.If it still, doesnt happen even doing that then only inertia and body roll are missing and you should have already checked that the drive shaft isnt hitting the chassis. Edited September 13, 2015 by Sausage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Cool, we did have the car in the air letting the wheels turn whilst in gear, and no knocking/clunking even when on full lock, but the wheels were hanging with no weight on them,the mechanic did say it was probably not clonking as there's no resistance from vehicle weight, but as you've said there needs to be weight on them I'll try and do what you've suggested and keep one wheel on the ground in turn, and let the other spin with a little brake pressure on them whilst turning to full lock to see if there's any sound. As said everything else has been checked and changed, nothing is loose, no rubbing on springs from wheels and everything else is nice and tight, seems only 2 things left it can be! Wish I stuck to bikes lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Make sure it's well chocked on the other wheels and handbrake on too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Will do mate,cheers. Might not get the opportunity to test it out until next week as the car is at my mates garage and he's closed by the time I'm finished at work, will report back with outcome when I get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myles983 Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Did you manage to find a fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hey guys, I did manage to sort the problem! After trying everything, it was my gf's dad who solved it.With the car being lowered 75mm all round, excess force was being placed on the inner CV joints, as you all may or may not know, the inner CV joints move in and out, and lowering the car pushed the inner CV joints in quite a bit, so when turning the steering wheel on full lock, the last bit of travel on the inner CV joints was being taken up and then some! So the excessive pressure was causing the clunking, we simply raised the front suspension by 20mm and the problem stopped!it was alright raising the suspension by 15mm, but still a slight clunking when I had a passenger in the car, so 20mm was the sweet spot.All you guys were a great help! Always ready to give advice, great forum! Once again thanks to everyone who gave their time and helped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Problems with knocking caused by lowering your car?Who'da thunk it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 I know, can't believe I didn't check that first, Always the obvious that's right in front of your face...won't be so stupid next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Although to add, it didn't clunk when I first lowered the car, came on a while after, probably due to gradual wear of the inner CV joints....live and learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Not knocking you, just one of the many reasons why I think slamming cars is a really stupid idea. A little drop is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I think it's your inner cv joints to. Lowering out stress on everything espicially at 70mm but usually cv joints, ball joints are driveshafts. Depending on fwd or rwd. But lowz over driving though. Just wait until whatever breaks. Then you will know what was at fault.Remember when I posted that. Yeah welcome to the past. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) The shafts bottoming out crossed my mind, but as people seem to slam lupos and not report this, plus any car should allow for full suspension swing without bottoming the shafts anyway I didnt suggest it.If you have worn bushes in your suspension or saggy engine gearbox mounts you might see this happening, which would be why full lock makes it happen as the outside wheel is forced in a turn if the suspension is worn or the engine / gearbox is forced out if the mounts are weak. If there's enough movement then your shafts will run out of end travel and bottom out. Edited October 15, 2015 by Sausage 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) I know dblock,you were right, one for the memory banks! As sausage says, lots of people have slammed their lupos and not reported this problem, although mine was 70mm, there was still quite an arch gap so thought it would be fine, but all lupos have their own ways I guess, anyways it sits a little higher now, but it still handles great so still happy. Edited October 15, 2015 by agilecanonbal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 And once again, thanks guys until the next problem lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 Just remember (I'm not bashing you for lowering it's your car after all) but if something is slightly worn lowering makes it much worse and put strain on components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agilecanonbal Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Never thought you were Mr dblock,it's advice I shall remember for the future, just wanted a little style, but now choosing practicality over style lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Lowering puts strain on everything including your back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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