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1.4 75hp oil cooler


Patronu
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Those engines do not have an oil cooler like the 1.6 engines do so when I drive "sporty" the oil pressure light blinks ocassionally. A mechanic told me the oil is not cooling properly thus the viscosity gets too low and an oil cooler should solve this.

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I don't think the 1.6 do have a seperate oil cooler fitted. Tbh I think your mechanic is talking rubbish, if the engine needed to run with an oil cooler vw would have fitted one.

Has it been serviced recently? What mileage has it done? If the oil pressure light comes on under heavy load you can bet your ass it's not the oils fault if it's the correct grade of oil. If the oil gets 'too thin' when it's up to temperature then it's the wrong oil. If you're running a racing engine then that's another matter, or an engine with a specific spec or working function that requires an oil cooler be fitted, but telling a customer 'your oil is getting to hot and too thin when you hammer it, I suggest you fit an oil cooler' is IMO stupid talk.

It's more likely to be your oil level is low, wrong grade oil, oil in your sump is old and sludgy, or sludge has got in your pick up pipe, or your oil pump is on its way out, or possibly a long shot at a dicky pressure sensor.

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Gti's run a water oil heat exchanger that takes care of keeping the oil at the right temperature.

'Spirited' driving could cause oil surge, where the oil is pulled by cornering forces away from the pump pickup temporarily causing the oil pressure ligh to come on.

You need to be much more specific about where and when the oil light comes on.

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I take good care of my lupo (~95K miles). Everything is serviced, oil pump appears to be changed before I bought the car. Oil is castrol edge titanium 10w60. Engine is much more quiet than using 5w30 or 5w40. I've done 7K miles with the light blinking (only when I rev it hard like going up stiff hills and driving around town on hot days) and not any sign of braking down. I'm planning to switch to a diesel so I want the car to be in the best shape for selling. That mechanic told me it's the only possible reason why those 1.4 16v (well serviced) engines have the oil pressure problem. (I've replaced the sensor)

So I'm willing to try to fit an oil cooler like the gti has. But I do not know if it is possible or how to do it.

Edited by Patronu
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No, I don't buy into your mechanics theory.

Maybe the oil relief valve on the oil pump is sticking/faulty?

There is no way you can get your oil thin enough to drop the oil pressure enough to make the light come on.

On previous vauxhalls i've built, the oil light came on at about 6psi. But a healthy engine should be running a good 30psi on tickover and about 60psi at high revs when warm. So if you're telling me you're getting less than 1bar I'd be looking at piston rings.

If it were me, I'd fit a capillary oil pressure and oil temp gauge. You'll know for certain then!

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You can buy a generic oil cooler kit which fits with your oil filter and then mount the matrix someowhere suitable like where the aircon mattrix is fitted, but to be honest, the filters are pretty tight for space anyhow, so I'm not sure if it would fit.

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10w60 is a little on the high side imo, but I don't own a 1.4 so maybe others can give their opinion on that.

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10w60 does seem a little thick. I find it hard to believe the engine will even hot warm enough to bring the viscosity of the oil down to a reasonable level. But even so, this doesn't explain why the oil pressure is low. If anything, it should be higher due to the thicker oil.

Fit an oil pressure gauge.

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10w60 does seem a little thick. I find it hard to believe the engine will even hot warm enough to bring the viscosity of the oil down to a reasonable level. But even so, this doesn't explain why the oil pressure is low. If anything, it should be higher due to the thicker oil.

Fit an oil pressure gauge.

Yep, oil pressure gauge is a good start.

Is it possible that using the thicker oil is putting extra strain on the pump which is causing the oil pressure to drop. Maybe your oil issues would be fixed by some decent 10w40?

1.4's always rattle a bit, just drive it carefully from cold and you'll suffer no issues.

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Yep, oil pressure gauge is a good start.

Is it possible that using the thicker oil is putting extra strain on the pump which is causing the oil pressure to drop. Maybe your oil issues would be fixed by some decent 10w40?

1.4's always rattle a bit, just drive it carefully from cold and you'll suffer no issues.

There's no way that it can really put extra strain on the pump, after all, it's powered directly from the crank... If the crank is spinning, then so is the orbital oil pump gear.

He's saying it only happens on full load, which is really weird, as that's when the oil pressure should be at it's highest, even with the pressure relief valve stuck wide open it should be making a few BAR of pressure at high revs - it'd be tickover where the pressure would be low.

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There's no way that it can really put extra strain on the pump, after all, it's powered directly from the crank... If the crank is spinning, then so is the orbital oil pump gear.

He's saying it only happens on full load, which is really weird, as that's when the oil pressure should be at it's highest, even with the pressure relief valve stuck wide open it should be making a few BAR of pressure at high revs - it'd be tickover where the pressure would be low.

OK, let me explain further, but as someone who's built engines you'll know better than me: thicker oil makes the oil pump work harder increasing oil pressure, but decreasing the volume, right? At full load, the pump cannot maintain the higher pressure at the lower volumes flow rate required to safely lubricate the engine, therefore the engine is instantly starved, the pressure drops and you get an oil pressure warning. The OEM oil pump is simply not designed to deliver 10w60 oil at a flow rate that is safe to avoid contact, it's designed to deliver 10w40, or 5w40 or somewhere nearer that kind of viscosity. You're increasing oil pressure (which is good) but simultaneously decreasing oil volume flowing round the engine (which is bad). If your volume drops, starving the engine, then your pressure will drop and in this scenario, it's most likely to drop at full load, as opposed to idle.

That's a hellishly pseudo-scientific bordering on bad explanation, but I know it's somewhere in the ballpark.

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I get skezza's point, I think a far cheaper/better way to sort the problem would be to actually use the correct oil, no wonder its quieter, if that's what's truly bothering to then just chuck a couple of litres of EP90 in and see how you get on...

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Alternatively, you could fit a high volume oil pump.....

Or just use the correct oil as Pete says.......

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I don't see that the 10w60 oil is the route of the problem...

When the 10w60 oil is cold it has the same viscosity as the 10w40 and all cars have MORE oil pressure when they're cold. Typically 4-5BAR cold and 1.5-2BAR hot (on tickover).

As soon as the engine starts to warm up and oil temp increases, conversely the oil pressure decreases, due to thinner oil.

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I don't see that the 10w60 oil is the route of the problem...

When the 10w60 oil is cold it has the same viscosity as the 10w40 and all cars have MORE oil pressure when they're cold. Typically 4-5BAR cold and 1.5-2BAR hot (on tickover).

As soon as the engine starts to warm up and oil temp increases, conversely the oil pressure decreases, due to thinner oil.

But we've just said that the oil pressure is dropping at full load, so the oil having a similar viscosity to 10w40 at cold really isn't relevant. You're correct that cars have more oil pressure when cold, but with the increased thickness of oil, you're increasing the oil pressure from idle all the way to full load and decreasing the volume of oil flow around the engine. Your engine is only likely to be starved at full load, when the pump simply cannot shift the correct volume of oil as opposed to idle, when it can, this applies even when cold.

I do agree, check the oil pressure switch. They're an issue on Loops. Matt's had issues on his missus Lupo with the pressure switch. However, if it isn't that, then I think we need to investigate other possibilities.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a random though it might be a simple electrical problem, the oil pressure lamp is supplied with 12v and comes on when the switch completes the circuit by grounding through the engine block. Any bit of damaged insulation along the wire could have the same effect. causing the light to come on

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