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carrera-gt last won the day on April 24 2016

carrera-gt had the most liked content!

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    Raven Blue Lupo GTI

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  1. Looks like the way forward is to measure the voltages directly with a volt meter not via VDS because that's what the ECU thinks and that may not be reality. if you check the wiring diagram there will be junction points in the loom where there are plugs where you can tap into the signals. Perhaps two voltmeters would be good one to look at the trottle demand voltage and another to look at the pump drive signals while your drving it, after all your problem might simply be a bad earth on one of the signals.
  2. If nothings wrong with the pump and ECU says no more fuel, then either ECU has a problem or one of the sensors feeding data to the ECU has a problem. If it's a fly by wire system is the correct deamnd signal reacing the ECU from the trottle position sensor ? If its a cable system there will be a sensor somewhere that feeds data to the ECU. If you have a spare ECU might be worth a try, on GTI's and similar you can check the output of the throttle position sensor perhaps you can do that here
  3. Excessive wear on the inside edges suggest way too much camber angle, you can check that with a spirit level, that has two levels at 90 degrees. if you are running too much camber you will get driveability issues. The other points to check are top mounts for excessive wear, lower ball joints, whishbone bushes , steering rack mount bushes and track rod ball joints
  4. Jsut follow the codes: check the EGR valve is not jammed Your new throttle body needs to run it's adaption routines see Ross tech Wiki on throttle body replacement The O2 sensor is a red herring as such by un plugging it you are pushing the engine into limp home mode.
  5. No evidence for this hybrid anywhere so that suggests it's not viable, however that's part of the fun, as sausage says you need to get basic engineering sorted, do water and oil feeds all line up properly? and will it work mechanically. From doing this in the past a couple of pointers 1/ use a used head gasket so you dont have to orques the bolts. 2/ use plastigague glued to the valve base to check clearances, assemble torque to 50% rotate disassemble measure the plastigague 3/ When looking for clearennces allow for heat expansion and the stretch that happens at high rpms. 4/ you need to map the cam timimg relative to the crank rotation and piston pisition, it may be that you have clearance and that the CAMS need re-timing for the hybrid.
  6. Sounds like you have a problem with the wiring loom between the pedal sensor and the throttle body, broken wire / poor connection either at the pedal or at the thottle body. Call a good auto electrician probably not a simple DIY fix as the ECU is between the two.
  7. You can buy service kits from brakeparts.co.uk inc pistons, re-manufactured calipers and other bits
  8. There is also a twin engine mini desiged by issgonis apparently horrible to drive
  9. Rear wiper motor stopped spaying and started leaking into the tailgate, new motor £120 + ouch, Ebay £35 much better, arrived wel boxed didn't work GRRRRR. so simple rebuild instructions for the rear wiper motor. Remove the wiper arm, carefully pull off the plastic washer jet while it's still on the car as it's much easier. remove the trim panel, remove the hose and the connector. undo the 3 nuts drop off the motor. Remove the back panel use TORX bit. if like me your spay tube is broken in half you will need to drill out the tube which is brass at 3.2mm. ( It fails because the steel rusts expands grips the tube and snaps it when it wipes then it starts leaking) I used the new motor as a donor to replace the tube, drill out the steel at 3.5mm or 3.75 if you have it. I didn't so I used wet and dry wrapped around a 1mm drill to smooth out the bore to get a good sliding fit. Plenty of grease on tube and re-assemble and re-fit.
  10. Fooling, will be interesting. You need to find the mass airflow meter because you need that, It may be part of the throttle body if so remove the butterfly and feed the air to your carbs through the hole. if not then use the air flow meter to feed the air to the carbs. Fooling the ECU as to injection is easy just put resistors across the injector connectors at the right value
  11. Your basic problem is ignition timimg and advance controlled by the ECU, you have two options you can either try to fool the ECU that it's still in charge or you can replace the ignition system with an after market one. Do you have a cable or fly by wire throttle ?
  12. Glad you got it working OK What happened to your 'known good' injector ??
  13. If the crank sensor is failing then it's more likely to display symptoms when it's warm, sounds like it's time to change it before you are stranded somewhere.
  14. No I was thinking of the arm, release bearing and slave, that alignment where does the arm pivot ? Is it in the correct place ? If you manually press on the arm can you feel the finger springs ? One way to align it all is to partially extend the slave then insert it into the arm then bolt it up.
  15. So the slave is working it's just not releasing the pressure plate, I'd take the slave off and check the throw with a rod from the face of the slave mounting to the clutch arm and see what i got before taking it all apart again. If you're getting enough throw then it's an issue with alignment. You could mimic the slave with a threaded rod and plate similar to brake piston retractor
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