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Found 19 results

  1. Can anyone help me find a replacement buffer/stopper for my Arosa?The one on the other side has snapped and makes the boot rattle.
  2. Hi, we have an intermittent fault with the boot light not coming on when we open it. We have worked out that it is the switch, plunger, that is at fault but we cannot find the part number or what it is specifically referred to in VAG catalogues. It's the white plastic cylindrical sprung loaded switch that has a screw hole to one side and fits in the bottom right corner of the body of the shell where the tailgate closes onto and is about 2.5 inches long. It also has two connectors, rather than one that is relying on an earth. We've searched everywhere for boot switch etc but cannot find a replacement. Any ideas where we can find one please...
  3. Lupo GTI Polished Boot and Bonnet Struts Nice upgrade for any Lupo or Arosa. I bought them ages ago but never got round to putting them on and don't have the car now. £15 plus £5 P+P Will consider offers. I accept PayPal.
  4. Description: lupo/arosa boot spoiler and tailgate. Tailgate has small dent to lower lip. Wiper blanked off. Spoiler in good condition, would benefit from painting. Spoiler sells on ebay for around £150 on its own! Location: east Yorkshire Postage: collection preferred but if interested message me and we can see if we can sort something. Contact: 07506757337 Price: £120
  5. Hello! I'm a newbie here. Bought my Lupo last week (a 1.0 E with 47k on the clock). The previous owner has painted the VW badge on the back with black chalkboard paint (cringe) and removed the Lupo name. I've ordered (and now have) a replacement silver VW badge from eBay and am planning to follow this video to remove the current one to replace it. I've also managed to source a Lupo name badge from eBay to stick back on. My issue is spacing, can anybody help with how I should space the letters out to look as original as possible? How far down from the window, how much space between letters etc... Cheers Keith
  6. Boot lid originally off a GTI in red with wiper motor included. (Please note spoiler not included). Looking for £20 Ono collected or I can post for about £10
  7. For sale I have a lupo gti rear spoiler complete with bootLid and wiper motor in red. The spoiler does have a slight crack on the underneath side and the brake light has a slight crack on the left hand side. Please see photos. Looking for £180 collected or am happy to post for approx £25. Located in Midlands. Many thanks Sam.
  8. -EDIT- I have just noticed Flickr has decided to fail with my pictures, so here is my Flickr photostream, all pictures are on there. -EDIT- So im planning on starting this install thread and maintaining it.. but im a bit of a lazy sod so i apologise if if it goes to pot I've ripped out my old install which was done on a bit of a budget, it consisted of 2 10" Fli subs taken out of a FliTrap 1600W and the loaded 500 amp to go with it as well as 2 Audiobahn 12" ran off an Inphase 4ch amp, i cant really remember all of the details because i put it in quite a while ago. Here it is: Here is the new stuff thats going in.. eventually: Consists of (pictured): Sundown SAZ-1500D amp Focal PS-165 Component speakers Stinger 14AWG Speaker wire 5L Fiberglass kit 5L Contact adhesive Paint + lacquer kit Non-Pictured: KnuKonceptz Kord Kable 12 Gauge Speaker Wire Alpine MRX-F35 Phonocar 4/927 Rain Stop KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge amp installation kit 2x Sundown SA-12 Already fitted: Alpine CDE-135BT Head unit XS Power D1200 AGM Battery 'The Big 3' Upgrade with black KnuKonceptz 0AWG Valeo 108a Passat alternator - http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/94682-180a-alternator-fitted/ KnuKonceptz 0AWG cable KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 5M Twisted Pair RCA Cable I've probably missed some stuff out but ill update when i remember.
  9. Hi all, I've recently purchased a lupo GTI! Love it to bits already! I've made a start on my boot build today and was just wanting to create a post to show people how I've got on and maybe if anyone could suggest anything So I've ordered 2x Rockford forsgate 8" subs to go in the boot My box dimensions are as follows; (these dimensions are not set in stone yet I'm waiting on the subs to be delivered first) 800 x 300 base 764 x 264 top 800 x 171 front & back x2 264 x 171 sides x2 I will the lay a false floor on top of the box all nicely trimmed and lit up with clear view of the subs Only got round to cutting the wood today
  10. I'm interested in doing the mk5 ect. Boot badge retrofit. does anyone know what sizeD diameter badges are available? What options of fitment is there? I know you can cut and shut a mk5 badge with a square extra surround from the mk5 boot. I'm interested into how casperGTi did his as it looks like he made the hole to fit but I'm interested how people have kept them water tight and muting on the inside. Also how many people have wired the central locking in and is it controlled on a separate button? Any help is welcome. Pictures appreciated too. Thanks Keelan
  11. I've just bought a complete Mk2 bootlid and i intend to fit it to my Mk1. This is a non central locking bootlid so wiring will have to be transferred and a new lock and handle will need to be purchased. However to be able to use my existing key, regardless of which handle is fitted, the lock and barrel will have to be switched OR modified. I have done the latter and modified the lock to be fully functional with my existing key. This is how it was done: I removed the handle from the boot to do this but it can be done with it still fitted. 6 Nuts is all that is holding it in so its not too hard to remove and makes life a lot easier later on. First things first, you will need to remove the e clip and lock arm There will be a C shaped clip retaining the next part, i have already removed it in the above picture. This clip is the difficult one to re-install as it is retaining a spring plate. Be careful when removing this as the springs are under pressure and WILL want to fly everywhere. Once that clip is removed all of the other parts should just slip out. When i extracted these i made sure to keep them lined up but they should all slip together one way so it really doesn't matter, i was just being extra cautious. The business end is pictured on the left of the above, this is a 2 piece assembly, once the sheath is removed all the teeth should pop out. This is the bit you will need to swap with your existing part so that your original key will work correctly in your new lock. If however you are attempting to modify it, there are a few things to note, the modified lock will NOT be as secure as the original as it will now fit YOUR key as well as the donor cars key and any other key in between. The less modification needed to make YOUR key work, the more secure the lock will be. I was lucky as very little modification was required. When the key is inserted, all of the teeth should be flush with the body. As you can see in the picture above there is about 3 teeth that are not flush when MY key is inserted. All that is needed is for the teeth to be ground down flush, i did this with my dremel but it could also be done with a file. Test that it slides in the barrel when the key is inserted before you refit it and assemble in reverse order.
  12. Hi. I can't get the boot of my 2001 Arosa S open. The central locking won't unlock it it although it does make straining motor noises for a second or two when the car is locked or unlocked. Similarly, I can't get the key to rotate properly in the lock, and any rotation that does happen doesn't seen to do anything. I've not been able to use the key in the boot since I've owned the car though, so that's not new. The actual boot handle it self doesn't have much resistance to movement, it moves smoothly and springs closed when I let go, but it doesn't actually feel as though it's connected to anything mechanically. I can't remember what it felt like before, it might have always been like that. I've read that some of the VAG boot locking mechanisms are prone to jamming and need cleaning and lubricating periodically, but to do this I presumably need to get the bugger open. Anyone got any ideas? Would it be worthwhile to pull the interior plastic panel off of the boot from the inside of the car? Ta EDIT: got the interior trim off and had a poke about, the problem did indeed seem to be that parts of the mechanism were sticking enough to prevent them from springing back to where they should be. Also the white electronic actuator seems to be completely dead now, so until I manage to track down a replacement I've unhooked it from the manual locking mechanism.
  13. My spare wheel isn't sitting right in the well and is bulging through the boot liner, is anybody able to get a picture of how it is meant to be because i just cant figure out what is wrong?
  14. BenStanden


    Hey guy's i was wondering where the best plave or way to get a 1 peice spoiler for a 1999 1l lupo? I've already been browsing the net and found some for like £180 but was looking for something more under £100.
  15. Lately my car's central locking can be heard clicking over & over, whilst it's parked up. I've noticed the 'tailgate open' warning light has been on quite a bit too since around the same time (is a false reading.. firmly shut). Are these two related, and what to do??
  16. hi i want to know if any one has fitted a smooth boot that opens with a solenoid and a button as my boot has had the handle removed if any one can help me on how to fit and how well they work thanks Sam
  17. Okay so I decided to take some pictures through the process of my discreet boot build. Push seats forward and remove boot liner... Insert 2 pieces of timber for false floor struts... Use silicone to secure the struts in as they hold it very strong but is also cleanly removable by force if needed (useful if restoring car back to original spec.) Place boot liner on a piece of 12mm MDF. Use this rather than plywood as it is dense and cusions sound frequency better. Alterations must be made to the template, If you just draw round the liner it will not fit* Use a jigsaw/coping saw or other various woodworking tools to cut out your base... Once base is cut out, measure to the centre using a steel rule or other straight edge. Mark out a circle using compass for the sub woofer to be mounted in... Test fit your base then finish in desired material. I decided to trim mine in Red leatherette Will upload rest of the build pictures tomorrow along with finished product pictures. If you are wanting one of these but do not want the hastle of making your own i can supply them for... £30.00 - plain cut MDF base. £40.00 - Carpet, Black/Grey. £45.00 - Leatherette colour of your choice.
  18. Was just wondering if you can squeeze 6x9s into the lupo at the front (replacing standard doorcards) Anyone tried it ?
  19. Hi Guys! I'm a newbie to this site and wondered if you could help me with a serious issue i have with my lupo! The boot lock seems to be stuck open, either through a faulty barrel or corrosion! Any ideas how to get rid of the corrosion?? to save me having to get a new barrel or if worst comes to worst a new handle and lock. I couldn't get the key into the lock before but with a lot of WD40 i have got the key in, now it just won't turn!
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