Dubya

Hmmm... Not into stripping the gti. Might have to look at another towing machine style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

I'd have the Falkens over the Toyo's style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Damn style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

RS's are 3 piece, so you need 2 sockets... As there's a nut on the back. A normal socket has a hexagon shape inside. You need a splined socket - which Halfrauds tend to stock instead of the traditional hexagon socket. When you re-fit the wheels, they need to be torqued, and tighten each one diagonally to the last (so it pulls the rims on straight). Normal heat proof silicon sealer will do. You only need a drop inbetween the screws (on each mating surface), so it's not a metal to metal contact. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Anyone have a tow bar fitted to their Lupo/Arosa? Ever towed anything with it? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> Reckon I could hitch up a tow bar/trailor to my diesel, and tow my gti to track days? Or would it exceed it's towing capabilities? Answers on a postcard. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Polish the inside drum aswell... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> ...do the job properly style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Freemasons - rain down love - music video. Anyone seen it...? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> In the first couple minutes, the 4 chicks lay on their backs and put their legs in the air.... Camera zooms in on the chick in the purple. Nice ass shot of her... but is that the crotch in her tights, or her beef curtains hanging out the sides of her bottoms? Answers on a postcard. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Rear camber is fixed, and governed by the design of the rear stub shaft. You can't adjust it without camber shims... To adjust the camber, you have to have the weight of the car on the wheel... It's pointless trying to set anything, if it has no load on it - it'll run out of true when you apply weight to it. Personally, I'd take it to a proper garage, as mentioned before. A simple check to see how far out one wheel is to the other, is to measure it with a straight edge across the wheel and fender. 0.50 negative is more than enough on a stock Lupo style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Pop your wheel off, and check the loom that runs to the ABS sensor on the hub - It's real simple to rub through the rubber insulation and short the cable; if it's not clipped in place properly, the inside edge of the wheel/tyre will rub it away. If it's not that, I'd hazard a guess at a dicky sensor style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

Pic for reference: border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> That's what hangs under an E30 BMW... Only the carrier plate itself, and the strut tops, locates/positions the entire back end. Simplicity at it's best style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Forgot to mention earlier on... The Syncro system works mechanically. The car is front wheel drive to begin with, then uses a transfer box to power the rear diff, through a viscous coupling. Side to side is an even split, and power transfer to the rear wheels is dependant on road speed. Maximum acceleration see's a 60/40 split across the drivetrain; biased towards the front. The rear wheels are only to 'assist' in traction... The 4 motion setup, and quattro, uses wizardry to split the power transfer front to back, and some side to side. I've never bothered to understand the full workings though style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

If you want to run a mechanical 4 wheel drive setup, you'll need the rear diff from the Golf G60 Rallye/Golf G60 Syncro - not the stock diff fitted to the carb'd 1.8 Syncro!. They'll cope easy with 250+bhp being chucked at them. Or the mk3 Golf/B5 Passat V6 Syncro diff at a guess... 4 motion and quattro setups use wizardry to function style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Personally, if it were me... I'd get the back end of an E30 BM. They only have a single carrier plate, which bolts directly to the chassis (under the rear seat) through bushes, and the rear trailing arms are fixed directly to it. The hubs and rear diff then float... making it p*ss easy to transplant into a Lupo for example. Hubs are 4x100PCD and all you'd really have to do is shorten the carrier plate to fit the chassis width. Drive shafts can be shortened to suit, and you should be able to mount it all using the stock lupo struts and springs. Forget front drive totally, and go soley rear drive style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Wahey. Done that many a time style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> Best ones are when you start talking to yourself in the message your sending! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" />

No conversion is ever straight forward. If you want simplicity, then buy one ready built and tune it style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

The 2 off 16mm bolts that hold the strut to the hub, control the camber adjustment. I'd take it to another garage that knows one end of a spanner from the other style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

2.0l 16v is quite a tall motor. You might struggle to get it into place, without modding the bonnet. Gearbox and driveshafts would be the only tricky bit. You should be able to run the motors stock ecu, but you'd need to replace the entire Arosa loom with the 16v item. At a guess... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Mechanical Engineering BSc Hons Degree style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Put simply... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Changing over to the Xenon's is an extensive conversion. Not to be undertaken by the faint hearted style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?sho...;hl=Xenon+Umbau

You can dissmantle the wheel complete with the tyre on, but you wont pop the bead to remove the tyre yourself... You'd be better off taking them to a local tyre shop, and getting them to remove the tyres before you break them up. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

There is no rev limiter active on down shift. Select the wrong gear at the wrong time, and it'll just scream it's head off... literally. I was led to believe the cup cars ran a tuned 1.6 AVY GTi motor with 170 hp, and revving to 8500rpm. The motor itself being made up of original VW parts, and running ACS management. That's my understanding of the regulations, anyhoo style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

So why'd they replace the seal if it was the shaft causing it? He's talking sh*t... If it goes in with a leak, and they say it's a seal... they replace the seal, and it comes out with a leak... I'd be ringing Volkswagen UK and questioning it with their Customer Services guys. A shaft under normal circumstances, wont wear a seal to that degree, in that time frame. Either they didn't replace the seal, or they buggered the shaft when they changed it. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Think about it logically for a moment. VW design a motor to be run by everyone from your gran to your spotty faced boy racer, and each motor is good for atleast 200k miles. For this reason, everything is massively over engineered for what it needs to do - look at the openings in the head for a start. Basic engineering tells you, that if your stock motor needs to run at a reliable 7k revs for it's entire life, then the safe working load of the rockers and head assembly HAS to be 9/10k revs. If it wasn't, you'de be rebuilding the head every few 1000 miles! (if it couldn't rev to 8k revs, your rockers would be weakening every time you revved it to 7k revs). The only limiting factor on the GTI motor for making it rev, is the weight of the crank counterweights. For it to rev more, you need to reduce the weight - sacrificing idle smoothness, for revving ability. My NA tuned GTI runs custom cams, and a 7500k rev limit. Do you not honestly think I'd be running that, if I hadn't researched it before hand? Rothe Turbo conversions run stock head internals - and they now have to cope with boost pressure! The 20v motor, will run a massive amount of boost and rev to 8/9k revs reliably, with very little work. Turning the limiter up, so that your GTI motor will rev another 1000 revs is **** all in terms of motor stresses. Like matey says, if the GTI motor couldn't do it... There'd be little point in having a GTI motor to begin with. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Your rolling radius will be massively reduced... So your final drive will be shortened - You'll accelerate slightly quicker, but lose out on top end. Your speedo will read faster than it's actually doing, and you'll clock up miles quicker than you should. Handling wise, you'll have less side wall flex under load. Which means you'll be able to push the tyre harder through a corner, over the stock tyre. Narrower foot print, means less friction, so you'll lose out on wet traction. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

You don't need to change anything mate. The 'speculation' about the rockers is all bull... The valve train will more than handle 8000rpm style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Getting closer. The 'money shot' usually indicates her nether regions, in all their glory... She only had a jacket and top on style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Indeed style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />