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Not on the dipstick... Very confused by the wiring. I thought the 109 relay was the fuel pump relay, J17, but it appears to be the Terminal 30 voltage supply relay, J317, although it is in position #2 which is supposed to be J17. Elsawin says that the fuel pump relay should have 167 on it. I do have the fuel shutoff relay 405.

The gauge shows half a tank. I didn't run the pump with the lines off though. Turns over fine. I've not checked for codes yet as I need 240v and it's not near a socket. I need to buy an inverter. The glow plug light does come on. Can't decide if it's on for less time than the one in my TDi.

Son's Arosa TDi. Car was going up a hill when it lost power and cut out. Gut feel was that something had gone wrong with the fuel feed. When the ignition is switched on, there's a relay click but no fuel pump. I pulled the 109 relay and swapped with the good one from my TDi. No effect. Put it back in mine, starts instantly. Put a 12v feed to the lift pump, it works fine. Just in case it was the relay I also tried to bridge across the relay connections. Looking at the wiring diagram, pin 87 on the relay goes to the pump. Not on this car it doesn't. Wondered if it's an immobiliser issue but I've read that it will start for a few secs. Tried both keys too. I've pulled the ECU connectors and had a look for corroded pins. They're fine. No obvious broken wires or damage to the looms in the engine bay. I need to look at the connections around the fuse box and bottom of the A pillar. One thing I did notice was that the oil level is off the dip stick. Is there a level sensor? With it failing going up a reasonable hill, I did wonder if that had any affect. Any other suggestions?

The question was asked in 2012.

The non abs cars have a tiny master cylinder. I have a Polo GTi one to fit. 3mm bigger bore.

I've gone the other way back to the standard TDi. If you're going to do it, use the GTi calipers with the 280mm carrier. The standard caliper is too narrow for the available brake pads. You'll either have to remove a couple of mm from each pad or just overheat the discs for a while until they've worn down. I do find it strange that the Polo GTi and Lupo GTi were supplied with the same disc diameter, just thicker. Is yours a non ABS car?

More than happy to post. I sent a 17kg box recently for around £8 through the post office. Cheapest that I trust on Parcel2go, DHL, are £7 and they'll pick it up from work. If I can get them into a box small enough and under 2kg, then the post office will do it for around £3. I don't know how much they weigh without the box.

Got a pair of spare lens units for an Arosa. The bulb carriers had rotted. £5 each plus postage.

The carriers have gone. Here's some pictures of the calipers.

Standard and new for a TDI. I didn't realise that the sport has shorter shocks. They should fit mine but I bought some Corrado VR6 springs to try and up the poundage.

I've got a pair of Lupo GTi calipers and also a pair of the 280mm carriers. I'm after £50 for the calipers and £20 for the carriers plus postage. I'll add some pictures later.

Have you sorted this? I bought a pair of springs for a Sport TDI but they are far too long for the shorter shocks. They are KYB RG1297. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/829468

I have some from an Audi A3, the original 8P shape. I used a guide like this to do it:

Good. The bottom arm is bent too so that'll be gone first.

Looking at Vagcat, Only the Lupo gets a choice of arms, the Arosa only lists the longer one. The shorter one is shared with the 6N.

I've got to replace a trackrod on the Arosa. Anyone done it in situ? Do I need to slide rack sideways or drop it out completely?

They're in my van, although I also managed of get a pair of carriers from a mk2 Caddy which is all I really needed, so they may be up for sale soon. The end of the exhaust looked OK, but I never got any closer. Overall it looked tidy pre-accident.

The steering wheel is OK apart from the fabric hanging out of the airbag. Prefer the feel of the TT one myself. Didn't look at the sills but it did look like it was tidy pre-smash.

Was in there yesterday and spotted this. It's had a front end smash. The interior has gone. The front and rear suspension is there.

Being 6'5", I've always hoped the seatbelt would save me before I get punched in the face ☺️. When I find the Arosa wheel wiring, I'll get some pictures of the 2 connectors side by side and hopefully they'll be the same crimp and can be swapped over. Otherwise I'll just splice them to make a hybrid.

Unfortunately it's just a continuation of the day job. Looks better now I've screwed the airbag on. Very nice on the hands compared to the standard one. I need to swap the airbag connector so it's wired correctly, it's just got a resistor at the moment.

I'm illustrating the process of fitting a later steering wheel, it's shape isn't the show stopper.

The part no. for a RHD passenger arm with the normal J hook end is 5Z2 955 409 A. Quick search on ebay should find you one.

Thought I'd update this thread with some photo's. I had to drill some holes, do a bit of filing and 3D print a bit. Just need to get an airbag to finish it. Much nicer feel.

The reason for the larger hole in the Lupo one is alignment tool for the subframe. The height is a problem as the bush locates in the subframe into a cup at the bottom.