carrera-gt

Skezza is right if the module is working properly.

The cassett connector that allows the wheel to turn while maintaining the airbag connection might be borken, they do wear out Simple test you can do, rermove the airbag disconect it, put a resistor 3.7 ohms from memory ( Need to look that up on the web to be sure ) across the airbag wire connector, swith on see if the light goes out. It's what you do when you fit an aftermarket steering wheel to fool the airbag controller into thinking the airbag is still present. If you have a broken wire you can go back down the wiring chain apply the resistor at each point when the light goes out you've found the break

Grey market imports can really distort the local market or they can have little effect it depends on supply and demand in that market. As for prices anything is only worth whatever someone else will pay for it. Gut feel says specs should be very similar to UK I doubt they can bring in enough cars to really push the prices one way or another, after import costs

The electronic manual is realy good and not expensive, download or CD, worth waiting for the CD.

Pg 56 of your self study programme lists the sensors for the Gearbox: looks likely to be N284, N285, N286 and N287 for 6,7,8,9 You can find these items in the online manuals electrical diagrams along with the colour codes for the wires. Once you match up the colour codes you should be able to fit the plugs

P0322 is the engine speed sensor signal lost, that will cause you to stall, it will also potentially cause the throttle body errors P0638 and P0106 because the speed sensor signal is used to calculate the trottle body position by the ECU. I would change the speed sensor first it's a much cheaper fix See you tube for the link between speed sensor and throttle body position https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4C075DS2Ud4

They don't close totally, if they did there would be no airflow into the engine and it would not run at all. Resetting it re-learns the home position by cycling the system. Juddering is much more likely to be ignition related It's very unlikley that the throttle body can casue the engine to cut out as you describe. Does it restart immediately after it's cut out ? You need to read the codes, and see what they tell you.

If you want to wait long enough you might find the spec you want but its getting harder as cars are now being kept more often, I think it's all about driving around with silly grin on your face after all, think of all the wasted opportunites A good car is never a bad colour and at the age GTis are you always buy on condition and mechanicals, mileage only reflects the service and maintenance requirements.

Please share, always good to have new ideas

Multimeter is not the best tool for this some low cost meters won't react to a short voltage pulse which is why I suggested the test lamp.

It all comes down to aspect ratios, the 50 in 195/50/15 is 50% ie the sidewall is 50% of the tyre width. The rolling radius calculator works out the effective rolling diameter of the tyre on the road, one of my cars has 205/50 on the front and 225/55 on the rear but the rolling radius was the same so it was OK. I don't know of any road cars that run substatially different rolling radiuses, they may be out there If you're going to run non standard tyres you need to inform your insurers.

You need to look at the rolling radius calculator and see how much difference there is between 195/45 and 195/50 any significant difference will upset the balance and weight distribution.

I'm not sure what you can do with the ECU, the pin oiuts are on the web but no real explanation of what they do, You're going to take away most of the sensor inputs so that will put the ECU into limp home mode, in that case everything should still work.

I've not done the conversion you're talking about, but I did fit a set of Webers and a programmable ignition unit to one of my cars. Megajolt do a complete ingnition kit for 8v VW's so if your running carbs that about it. You only need a tiny loom for that and you can make that yourself. Only a few issues I can think of: 1/ geting the fuel pressure and delivery right fo the carbs, injection systems have much higher pressures. 2/ The instruments not sure if they run from the ECU or just piggyback on the sensors 3/ No imobiliser maybe no central locking

Simple relay flip flop with two timer relays, one locks it the other ulocks it, test lamp is the best way to test the system you should connect the lamp between green and grey and see it light briefly when locking and unlocking.

Thanks for the good wishes, Yes it's a total hoot to drive and getting a speeding ticket would be very easy if you're not careful on the loud pedal, I've had much more powerful machines but the gti's are such good value for smiles per mile. Just a few jobs to do, Replace suspension all round, Cambelts and dynamat the interior to make motorways less trying

TBH it's probably better to send ithe ECU away you can't talk to it, the cost of a test will be about the same as one from Ebay and at least you will know, if it comes back as OK fom the test then you know it's a sensor or wiring problem, if it can't be fixed they can probabaly provide a replacement with a warranty not something you can get on Ebay.

Sorry I should have been more specific, deppending on which imobiliser type you have, worst case you need the 5 digit PIN number that goes with the ECU loaded via VAG.com see the ROSS tech WIKI for all the nerdy details.

They're plug and play and on Ebay but you need to be sure you get exactly the right part number, There are a number of companies that do repairs, they also test for a fee, if your ECU is faulty then the cost of the test comes of of the repair cost, since your OBD2 port is probably not working testing might not be possible, worth a phone cal to find out. Scabby connectors aren't likley unless it's got wet at sometime in the past, but you never know, a tin of contact cleaner would be a wise investment.

In a word Yes and Yes. The ECU will probably work fine even if the data port is not working. The data port is not part of the core functions of the ECU, it's only fumction is to relay diagnostic data to the outside world. Without codes from the ECU it's going to be difficult to get to the bottom of what's happening, if you can get a spare ECU its' worth a try.

Did you get it fixed ???

There are many videos on you tube of transfering the transponder from one key to another, be careful they are sometimes glass and are fraigile if you damage it it's game over you will need to go to the dealers for a new key.

Weslandon did say non diesel synthetic so might not be fine.

Modern synthetics are way too thin for lupo engines bearing clearences, If you're going to use a non diesel oil you will need to change it much more often as diesel leaves more cobustions products in the oil Always worth putting in a pressure guage in these sitiuations.then you can check operation of the sensors and cold and hot pressures per the specs

Power steering pump ??