mk2

I wouldn't. I had a rat bite through the same type of nylon fuel line on a mk4 golf. You really want to replace it. It is the exact same type of hose as on many other vdubs/seats. Only that the length is different.

ThreaD?

Seasons greetings! 🎄👋🏻🥂🎉🎂

Using standard parts wont fit, because the bearings are different. In theory, if you could find different bearings, then you'd need to swap the CV joints (the splined bit is different too). Rears easier. All round the brakes would need work too. Then you'll have wheel offset issues, as the wheel wells are small. Personally, I'd just swap the standard 13 or 14" rims to something interesting...

Yep. Everyone else give @Rich a plus point

Yeah sounds like you still have an electrical fault. Not the sensor. Ok to drive as much as you like. The ECU will simply follow an "open loop" map. So might use a little more (or less!) fuel. Same as it does on a cold engine when the O2 sensor hasn't warmed up yet.

No. There's a fault somewhere... Amazed that you retrieved a hex driver from INSIDE the throttle body! Smoke from the EGR vent is just where the air is allowed in to fight against the engine vacuum. It's used as an equaliser. One side of the EGR diaphragm is vacuum, the other atmospheric pressure. A bit like how a brake booster works.

You really want to get the exact same that were in there. They're actually pretty good (blaupunkt or philips). Speakers from Bora, Golf or Passat also fit straight in, as they have the same connector. Most breakers yards have lots. Or ebay... Just make sure the plug is the same, else you'll be cutting, crimping and soldering. I've tried quite a few different brands and aftermarket speakers and I personally think the OEM work very well with a standard hifi. And while fixing stuff, get a new blower motor resistor. They're not expensive and your car will actually warm up faster if you have the fan on low. When the fan is on high, the cold air doesn't have much time to warm up before it gets pushed into the car... It's a common fault for them to fail in most vdubs of that era.

Looks most excellent. I like it a lot. Whats the front suspension travel like compared to standard? What I mean, is did you change the lower coil seat on the shock, or is the spring seat just a bit lower on the Imprezza (lowering the front). Only wondering how it deals with things like potholes and speed bumps. I've been wanting to lower one of mine (on air, but OMG the price...), but I want the same ride quality. Even with standard setup, when there's 4 of us in the car the thing bottoms out against the bump stops.

You'll break the engine doing that... i wrote: >>>engine on, but not running<<< Not familiar with the D8, so you'll have to explore till you find it- in there should be an option to watch the live throttle data measurements. It'll either tell you readings in volts, typically between 0.4-4.6 ish, or in % 0-100. And if you have a graphing function, you could display the data on there: As you slowly press the throttle pedal from off to full to the floor, you should see a smooth increase in readings.

That is seriously low, and you're not on air like Ray or Pete. Any half shaft to chassis denting going on? You said you didn't notch, so that must be very close or you take speed bumps with extreme care! Yep, those pads look cooked. Happened to me a year ago too. One of the pads separated from the steel backer and spun into the gap between the pad backer and the caliper, like a wedge. Scary too as I was "enthusiatically" stopping at a T junc when my brake pedal sunk to the floor with a bang. Nursed it a few yards before checking, and all appeared to be fine because the caliper simply expanded with fresh fluid. Drove another 10 miles on an A road at 60 and when stopping the air filled with a burning smell... The disc was actually glowing cherry red. 😦 who is the blue one? Are they on here? Nice

Both of those are insane! Love it! Big ups to you mate. what wheels and tyre setup have you on the Rosa? More like rubber bands.

Not sure on the details of your exact unit, but typically, there are 6 pins. Two go directly to the motor. The other 4 (maybe 6) are a +ve feed and and earth, the other two are the returns, one increases as the throttle opens and the other decreases as the throttle opens. Basically a failsafe system. There are two potentiometers connected in parrallel (internally), but in reverse if you see what I mean. I wonder if maybe the earth line is high resistance, or maybe the positive feed is being dragged down by some other sensor elsewhere. EGR circuit? I don't think the problem has anything to do with the throttle body.

A mk4 golf country (sort of)! Cool. Real or photoshop? Can't believe anything you see anymore! So the shocks fit the front. Exact same hub carrier mounting holes, spring plate height and shock travel. Interesting. I wonder if Imprezza hubs work. (Schedules next trip to breakers in diary...) Yeah, i dunno how Demon tweaks do their springs so cheap. Bought quite a few from them over the years.

The Imprezza shocks fit the rear of a Lupo/Rosa? That's good to know. You can use stock mk4 golf front springs (poverty spec) to lower a Lupo. And mk3 to go even lower... Were those small rear coils specific for Lupo/Rosa?

Hmm. That does sound like the throttle body- well actually the TPS sensor inside it. Ok, so what I'd do to prove it is try and look at the throttle readings (engine on, but not running). Not familiar with the D8, so you'll have to explore till you find it- in there should be an option to watch the live throttle data measurements. It'll either tell you readings in volts, typically between 0.4-4.6 ish, or in % 0-100. And if you have a graphing function, you could display the data on there: As you slowly press the throttle pedal from off to full to the floor, you should see a smooth increase in readings. If you get that, the the TPS is fine. Chances are it's the motor linkage to the throttle flap. Actually you can check the movement of the throttle flap by trying to push it open with your fingers. There should be resistance, but not crazy stiff. Sticky throttles can give those codes- the ECU tries to open it by applying a specific voltage, which should (a split second later) go to the position demanded. If it takes too long, or doesn't reach the point the ECU expects, it'll flag a fault. All your codes could be from that. But, a new throttle body should work perfectly out of the box. So I'm thinking that there might be a wiring issue, or perhaps not enough voltage to make the throttle flap motor work at full power. Could be a power relay, a loose fuse or a loose connectir somewhere. Or even a broken(intermittant) loom wire. The EGR fault codes hint at a wiring fault as well- like a plug not connected or a broken wire. You could try spraying some penetrating lube at the throttle flap spindle bearings to see if that loosens it up a bit, if it was a bit slow/stiff. When operating, they open and close really fast, like zip-zip. Half a second from closed to open back to closed again.

From the description, could be anything! Even the gearbox. Any diagnostic codes? Why has it been reprogrammed? That's kinda wierd. (Or do you mean the fault codes were cleared?) Surprised about the throttle bodies. They get gunged, but don't usually fail. And a long run on the motorway once a month sorts out the EGR. Leaving the car idling from cold for a while kills engines. Any engine. Drive it straightaway once starting from cold.

So drives fine and when idling once warmed up throws a code. Yeah, i'm still convinced that it's a plenum/inlet manifold leak. A tiny air leak will only affect the idling once warmed up. Not when cold. You could move around injectors, but i don't think that'll move the fault. The O2 sensor reading via VCDS will tell you what's going on. Too lean or just right as the engine warms up, and while being driven. Late edit- just thought- ignore the fault for the minute and just drive the car normally for a couple of weeks. Then pull the plugs and analyse the colour.

Mk2 golf key spotted 👍🏻 @Skezza is our expert for immo stuff. I know nothing.

Yep. But a low reading should make it run rich... It is a dual sensor (i think on this model). One runs the instruments, the other the ECU. You might have a stuck thermostat too. They're cheap to swap over at the same time as doing the temp sensor.

Ah, you know it... CL's not the same without the old motly crew. @Rich said the same a few months back. Hey, at least it's better on here than club polo or Mk4s.

Sorry, who are you?

He's normally living on a mountain top in central Durham...

Yeah it can. The problem you'll have is the pedals. My guess is small feet also? The pedals are high off the floor like most newer cars. The temporary solution I came up with for someone to drive my car, was to make a carefully shaped board that fitted under the mat, very securely (for safety). Starting off at floor level under the front of the seat to 50mm above the floor where it met the firewall.