mk2

One of my SDIs is definitely developing a heavy clutch. I only really noticed it after refurbing the box on my other one which is now really light as a feather. Perfect. Pedal box is fine. Cable and linkages, fine. Lever to the release bearing moves ok, without the cable attached. Clutch doesn't slip. No release bearing noise. Shifts are fine. If i push on the lever by hand, it does take a lot of force to make it move. About five times as much as the other. Everything works ok otherwise. 90k miles. I've been trying to figure out if it is just the friction material wearing thin but not slipping, creating a different pivot position for the diaphragm finger spring. May also explain why new thicker friction material is much lighter. Never ever noticed it on any other car. ideas? Other than more time down the gym...

Something odd is going on, but I dunno what... from the pic of a new bearing & flange, it looks like the bearing assembly has to be pushed out from behind, but only after you get the cv out. And then there's that funky nut thing what ever that is?

@RAB isn't that the same as a regular lupo wheel bearing, but slightly smaller? I've never worked on lupo 1.2 so dunno. I'm curious. Usually instead of hooking a tool over the back inner bearing shell that is right up against the flange, into two thin cut recesses, you just get the angle grinder to cut it off... I've even seen that done on the diff bearings inside a gearbox! Obviously you have to clean really well afterwards.... here's a pic of a 3L front wheel bearing. It is backward compared to a regular one. I wonder why? And the manual drawing, but it doesn't show much.

Yeah all pedals should be level with each other.

I dunno. I've never ever experienced a stuck splined shaft. But since everything is out, it's only a few more £ to do the bearings... if it really is stuck, i'd just smack it with a heavy persuader. although if it is the cv joint, now that it's all out, the shaft could be detached from the cv spider by just pulling it away from the outer cv joint just to check what it's all like. Lots of options... if the cv is gone, then no option but to destroy the bearings.

Just had a close look at your pic... to remove the wheel bearings, you "must" remove the splined CV joint shaft. Remove the nut and push it out. Then it'll be obvious how to remove the wheel bearing. They just pop out. Usually you need to cut off the inner race that presses onto the hub shaft.

There's a trick to restoring the headlights... remove, then hand rub back with wet 240 grit to get all the original laquar off. Then when a nice even milky colour with no old yellow laquar bits left, rub back with 400 till nice and even. Rinse off with deionised water then dry. Dont touch with fingers and keep clean. Then mix up some 2k laquar and spray a few very thin coats (i do 3) at 15 min intervals. Allow to harden. Done. That'll last about ten years. They'll look like brand new again. With the very first laquar coat, the milky finish will instantly go crystal clear as the laquar melts into the surface.

If this debate does continue, could someone video the event. It'd make an interesting conversation point and set an example to any newbies...

That sounds amazing. Yeah, you have to do it. Wax the car first so in future it'll be easier to remove in future. If you were local, I'd buy those wheels off you. "Turbine" wheels are rare here. I think the combination of black tyre, silver rim with green centre would be very cool. Turn up at any local VW show and you'd be centre stage in Canada. what condition are the headlamp lenses? They do fade, but are easy to restore.

Yeah, this thread is all about spaces on @Richs stand for this years show that has already been and gone

I'd keep it stock standard, but simply add a big vinyl slash right across the car that had VW LUPO cut out of it? I could hear many people looking at the car while you're driving past going "what's that...?!". Or even add some of the green colour to the rims... Hey just thought- there's people on here who could do you a few photoshop effects before changing anything.

Nice All complete too. Nothing missing from what i can tell. Unusual!

I like the silver seven spokes the best, but that's my personal taste. Need a refurb though.... with that compliance guy, is there any authority who regulates or licences him to go to 'ask for advice' about being ripped off? I mean come on, yeah ok, so he's been to college to learn the rules and stuff; he's probably an experienced mechanic and has worked in the industry for quite a few years... but any mechanic can change service items for peanuts (brakes wouldn't cost more than a few bucks at a regular garage). You just have to question what his day rate or hourly rate must have been... I feel really mad for you if that's any consolation. Grrrr! Also he is wrong on the headlights. They do not and can not rotate. They do have a levelling mechanism the avoid blinding people when the back of the car is fully loaded up. Also, depending on local rules, there may or may not be a 'kick up' on the main running headlights. I know the US has no kick. In Europe they will either kick up to the left in the UK, or right in mainland europe. Easy to change by changing the light bulb. No mention of glass standards, mirrors, side collision bars, seat belts, demisting systems, fog lights or number plate lights. If it were me, I'd itemise all the different items and their related costs. Get two written opinions from other garages locally- offer to get them a bottle or something for their effort, then approach the regulating authority. Then go back to the chap and ask for some money back or see you in court for ripping me off... with the threat of speaking publicly about the way he treated you in the media. That usually works. then start writing formal letters. This makes me so mad!

You really have been through the mill with this project! But at least you now have a very rare, fully operational lupo in canada. Worth it just for the uniqueness if it all. Cool. Not sure if you have your roads salted over winter where you are, but if you do, I'd very much suggest you have the whole underside, sills and around the wheel arches pressure wax treated/undersealed. You need to remove the wheel arch inner plastic covers and pressure wash first. Well worth it if you're going to hang on to it for a few years

In your pic, no1 is not adjustable. It screws directly into the threaded hole in the selector shaft (or should...!). what amazes me about the linkage design, is that the little plastic rod that snaps over the two ball joints (beige thing at the top of 2) can take all that force when you go for a really fast/hard shift. Never heard of one breaking... @Rich u ever seen a broken one?

Nobody's fault... That's life. Yeah the person I knew who had a fancy computer controlled vinyl cutter also quit as it wasn't making him any money. I think to earn a living making stickers nowadays you need to have either a lot of clients or a very high profile. High house prices/rent are affecting everything.

3L Fresh gearbox oil also on the list i hope!

About 20mm at a guess. But what are you going to use? A rubber bung woukd be pants. Bit of gaffer tape? Or make a feature of it and bung some tweeters in there. Or adjustable led reading spot lamps? oh, and welcome to little club lupo world! Hey, just had a mad thought- you can get spring loaded double pole double throw with centre off panel mounting rocker switches (some even mount in a round hole). You could use those to make a manual electric window controller thing...

Stickers?

Is it the same as the SDI?

There's a vertical slot with a nut in it. You need to loosen the nut and slide it about 2mm down in the slot to make it easier to engage reverse. Move it up to make it easier to engage fifth. Retighten when happy. drawing shows the nut as number 65.

Sell em for £60

Yeah you use that cutting wire that glass fitters use. One person inside, the other outside and slice away like it's cheese...

Love the retro panel lights

Ah, hang on... i think i know what you're on about regarding that green sleeve. It's actually a pressed steel cup that is designed to hold the seal against the inner flange/shaft that comes out of the diff. It looks like a last minute design fix by the box designer. You need to pull that shaft out after removing the little bolt in the centre of the CV flange. Then you lever it out give it a wipe and then pop in a new one. You do have to remove the inner cv joint to get to it though. i watched my gearbox rebuilder do this a few weeks back on one of my SDI boxes. NOt straight forward.