outdoor stevie

I have a silver, 2 previous owner, very good history, had the car for almost 4 years now and it drives lovely, with no issues, and only 69k miles, so rather low miles, its a 5 speed and goes very well, £2800. By all means call to discuss 0791 997 5346. Cheers Stevie

Hi there, I have a 2001, silver, good history, I've had it for almost 4 years, 5 speed, very good condition, drives lovely with no issues, only 2 previous owners, it's a 5 speed, main thing is its only done 69k, so you could do 10k a year for three years and still be on 100k, price is £2800. Located on the coast in Whitley Bay Tyne and Wear. By all means give me a call to discuss further if you wish. Cheers Stevie 0791 997 5346

I have also been looking about for one, saw the £55 one on the bay, euro was 120 and the stealers was 150 last two was exchange units so thought I would have a go at removing mine but don't know how to remove the gear selector arm which stops the top long bolt from coming out of the starter and releasing the starter, are you going to do it yourself, if so do you know how to remove the circular ends on the cables which would then release the gear shaft selector arm to in turn get the starter out or are you popping it into the shop. Cheers Stevie

The weight of the car sits on the springs, and the shock absorber controls thE bounce of thE spring as it Goes up and down should normally settle after one to two bounces if not then the shock may have gone typically shown bY leaking oil on the outside of it, is one corner worse than the rest test by a vigorous push down, then go from there. Cheers stevie

Thanks Jon but it's coming from the top part of the actual washer jet and running down the jet and dripping off the pipe work that supplies the water to the jet just behind the bumper. Cheers for the help Stevie

Cold but nice day today so thought I would sort out me washers replaced some hose and a couple of connectors nice tight jubilee clips and gave them a go, smashing no probs loads of pressure and working great, but then I noticed a big leak from the drivers side up inside the bumper where you cannot get to it couldn't see the leak or even feel it but water coming out from the top bit of the tube. Anyone had this? And what did you do is it a bumper off job ? I have had a look thro' old posts but could not find anything Any help gratefully received cheers Stevie

Hi there Geoffd followed your advice and got the starter about one inch out bolts out etc but it seemed reluctant to want to actually disengage from the body of the engine and I didn't want to push it out any further just in case I wasn't doing it right, should I just give it a hard pull, it seemed to be separate from the solenoid is this right? Cheers stevie

Got the grill out and the badge also but no obvious broken wire and nowt to get a hold of with any pliers. To cold now will try again tomorrow

Lupo GTi 2001 Thought it was time to sort oot me headlamp washers,so up on the stands dropped the undertray had a wee look and one was hanging off ! and there was no hose coming down from the washer bottle ?, so then tried to pop the bonnet and the wire snapped to the front mech so no bonnet release, so now two things to sort out so questions are Has anyone fixed a broken wire with the bonnet still down, and can give me a few pointers or even a picture to open it up. Same with the washers perhaps a wee diagram showing the bits and bobs and the routing of the hose meaby Any help very much appreciated

Thank you, is there a 'how to' to give me a guide or any chit chat to help me I have had a look but have not found anything Cheers stevie

2001 Git starter motor makes a coughing sound once it starts I think it's jamming in, starts first time every time just makes this unpleasant noise every time, is there an easy straight forward fix or is it a new starter time cheers for any advice in advance Stevie

Hi there, looking at the picture only the outside edge of the disc is in contact with your pad, as you brake the pad should wear down and the shiney bit will get bigger until all of the disc is being used but until then your brakes will not be at their best, you should really have changed the pads as well, but its not too late to put in new ones and then bed them in, or have a look at the old pads and flatten em off with a file or ruff sandpaper so that they contact the whole disc when the brakes are applied, its not a big deal as long as your brakes are ok at the moment, are they? Can you tell what is happening on the reverse side of the disc is it the same, can you feel the disc surface with your fingers, it might be a caliper piston being stuck. Try one thing at a time all the best Stevie

Taking your point about the noise only being there when loaded up then I would point to either the wheel bearing or the cv joint, give the cv joint a good look at, looking for splits in the boot and any grease coming out of the boot, grab it with your hands and feel it up as any split might be hidden from view and if you get loads of dirty horrible grease on yer hands then you've found it, if its the bearing then the noise will get worse as time goes on and become a constant drumming, the cv noise will get more of a clicking kind of noise, you could give the whole area a good going over with the jetwash incase there's something jammed in a wee space, and inspect the discs for any scouring and marking of them, all sensible wee checks which cost nowt to find out and meaby just a few quid to put right ok best of luck stevie

Always a trickey one when you have so many options to consider, however why don't you raise up your ride height to something a bit more normal and see if the joint lasts any longer, at least this way it is a cheap option and then you can decide to lower it gradually or not or if it continues to pop then try summit else its worth a try, cheers stevie

I work it out the other way, ie mpg... fill it up to the brim every time, divide the litres by four and a half to give you gallons used and then divide number of miles driven by the gallons and gives you mpg , far more accurate and you know exactly what you have done and how much difference the roof rack makes, over the course of the last year I got between 36 and 42 per gallon which for a GTi i think is pretty gooood

The wee rubber seals in the pistons can jam up with brake dust every so often and stop the piston from going back in when the pedel is released, but to fix it you would have to get dirty again, you could try leaving the top off the master brake fluid reservoir for several hours as this may help release any pressure in the lines, and just check that you have the calipers on the right way round and do not have any twists in your brake lines as this is easily done, if you have to push them back in then keep the top off while you do it ok good luck

Shorter springs will always have a choppier ride as they have less distance to travel in order to absorb the bump, the weight of the car sits on the springs and the shock absorber's job is to try and control this movement of the spring as you bounce down the road. Cheap collies are bought to change the image of the car by making it lower they do not improve the roadholding or handling of the car as many people have found out, vw spend millions on perfecting and improving the ride and suspension every year. £200 a set is not going to do the same job. What to try, put them on the highest setting and gradually lower them over a couple of outings and find when the bad bounce sets in then you either live with that height or put up with the pogo stick ride changing other components in the suspension is unlikly to help good luck

I had the dreaded stuttering and hic-ups that so frequently come from a coil pack on its way out, but before I splashed out on a new one I thought i'd give it a wee clean just in case. Took the leads out one at a time and gave the ends a wee rub with emery paper two were in good nick but two of them were corroded but they still came up nice and shiney. Then wrapped a cotton bud with emery paper and cleaned the contact points in the hole of the coil pack and gently moved round and round to try and rub off any corrosion and then blew the dust away you cannot really see into the hole just judge by feel but be gentle with it. I have now done over a 100 miles and no hic-cups or hessitation at all lovely and smooth just the way its supposed to be, i'll monotor its progress and see how it goes and how long it lasts. Mines a Gti don't know if the packs are the same but its worth a wee bit rub a dub if yours is stuttering Cheers all stevie

If the oil was leaking when its warm then there would be big black oiley stains down the length of the underside of the car as the slipstream would be smearing it along as you merrily drive along so have a lookey,lookey, but that is a fair mileage to be doing and does'nt seem unduly high to me cheers stevie

Just having a wee thought that it could be the exhaust moving a bit under load, or you might have already looked, it only has too move slightly to catch on the underside check to see if there are any bash'es or dings on the underside which in turn may have moved it to touch at certain rev's if you have checked this then smashing,,, track the bugger down cheers stevie

A wheel bearing is normally a low pitched drumming noise when the wheel is loaded up ie. when cornering, go to a big car park and drive in circles to see if one way is more noisey than the other or jack the car up and grab the wheel and see if it wobbles. I presume you took it for a test drive and got up to speed in it was the noise present then? If they have serviced it, have they stamped the book, do you have the book, is the cambelt change also in the book, when you bought it what kind of warranty did you get with it, did you ask at the time, Vibration could be as simple as a wheel out of balance, normally on the front, have the front wheels got balance weights on them if not then chances are they have fallen off as it would be unlikly to have a wheel with no balance weights on so pop off and get em balanced locally, lots of questions for you to sort out wish you well, dubbersports from what I have heard are normally good to deal with but you never know cheers stevie

Very interested but as always how about some lovely pictures, and give them a clean up before hand so they look nice and shiney, only thing is I would need them posted so meaby aboot £12 for postage eh! do you know if they are genuine vw items or are they aftermarket stuff cheers stevie or send pic's to steve@cobh.zzn.com

I have a standard GTi and I was going to get some winter tyres as they are measurably better when the temperature drops below 10 degrees as they have a different rubber content so that is a fair bit of the winter time and they are also better in the snow as well, However the latest edition of which magazine has the Nokian WR model a long way down the rankings and the best one is the Continental Wintercontact which score very good across the catagories. Depending on the size you can get, tyre sidewall height is as follows 205/50 is 102 195/50 is 97 205/45 is 92 195/45 is 87 in the past I had some 205/50 on for a short time and they slightly rubbed on full lock only so I would have thought anything less would be fine. I think getting some winter tyres is a great idea it only takes a wee bump on the front or side or to your wheels and hubs and you have saved money on any repair bills. all the best stevie

Photo's required please, pictures of any wear and tear, and of the underneath to show the mounting system and where aboots are you in the country to steve@cobh.zzn.com cheers stevie

Sounds interesting this however some more info would help, i.e. colour, fabric, and of course some lovely colour photo's with close ups, also to show the underside of the seats with the mounting system thats on them and I would think that you would get some good interest and meaby even a sale, but the above ad needs more info and don't forget to tell folk where you are based good luck with the sale cheers stevie