amstrange1

I'll have a spare 085 Quaife available in a few weeks, brand new - PM me if interested. Also have a DR Engineering Grippa plate LSD for sale, brand new for £550 (£774 new).

Sent you a PM - just wondering if you've got a postage quote? Cheers!

I'm in Warwickshire - no tyres please!

Are they VW centre bore? What sort of price are you after posted?

Pete changed his mind and bought a Mk2 Golf - though I think that's gone now too! I'm just thinking of a temporary home for my engine so I can spend some time rebuilding/restoring my 'heck but still have a fun toy.

So Polo 6N mounts are the same as a Loop?

How do Nicki! Has anyone dropped any Polo engine into a Lupo? If so, what mounts need changing?

Has anyone ever built one?

The K04's not that much bigger than a K03... I'm using a K03 to good effect on a 1.3 8v motor, if I was looking at a 1.6 16v lump a K04 would seem to fit the bill - or perhaps something a bit larger depending on the motor spec. Fitting a massive turbo to a small engine isn't going to automatically blow it up - you've got to spool the damn thing first, then get naughty with the wastegate control to start making silly enough boost to cause damage. Bear in mind the stock actuators supplied with the likes of K03/K04 turbos have soft springs for low base boost settings - on the 20v motors the good old N75 valve bleeds off boost pressure from the actuator vac line to keep the wastegate shut long enough to make decent amounts of boost. I stuck a K03 on my Polo motor with standard actuator settings, and only got 0.3 bar of boost. For the record, my limited experience of Rothe stuff is good. My manifold and downpipe were secondhand, and have taken plenty of abuse so far without any grief.

Over 210hp has been done naturally aspirated apparently, and I know someone quite well that got a dyno-proven 260hp with a supercharger. The safe max rpm of the 'charger was limiting the peak power, as he couldn't rev the engine high enough to find out what it peaked at without risking the 'charger. The car ate gearboxes.

Has the motor been left stock?

All I'm saying, is my Polo has a screwed rear brake cylinder and it's causing similar problems. That's not to say your issue is guaranteed to be exactly the same. I think LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI covered all of the possibilities!

What times did you get today James?

Bogg Brothers in North Yorkshire can make up inlet manifolds to fit bike bodies (and carbs) onto cars. Not that cheap either - £170ish. If you were to use Megasquirt and do it yourself you'd almost certainly be able to reuse a lot of the existing sensors from the Lupo, but would probably be easiest to use the bike throttle position pot. Do the Lupos/Arosas not have crank trigger wheels already? Or is it only some models? If you're going to be paying someone to do it, it won't come cheaply! Edit to add: bike bodies - I picked up a set of Kawasaki Ninja ones for £20 on eBay standalone ECUs vary in price a fair bit, e.g. Emerald unit is £500ish eBay is useful for airboxes and filters cheaply new Bosch fuel injectors can be had for around £150 per set of 4 (though you may be able to use the bike units, depending on which ones you get)

I don't think that bike bodies are ideally suited to a car engine, the rate at which the throttle plates open makes low throttle openings quite difficult to control. Having said that, there are ways around it - and you're always reading in the magazines about people bolting them on to old cars successfully. If you're looking at getting your hands dirty trying to get bike bodies working sounds like a real fun project, in line with the budget DIY approach you could build and map your own Megasquirt ECU to control the fuelling. I'm sure someone else will help out with the more commercially available options, Jenvey could sort you out with the throttle bodies themselves - as for management there's a plethora of options, and you're probably best going for a system that your local tuner is familiar with to facilitate the mapping process. Just an idle thought - is there a particular reason you want to stick with the one litre lump?

My Poo-lo does exactly the same. I have a slightly seeping rear wheel cylinder on one side...

not picking an argument but that doesn't stick with me, i had my car cornerweighted with me init and it was within 2kg of each other at the front... my front left still spins up first style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" /> Blimey, 2kg is sweet FA - didn't realise it'd be so little. LHD cars also do it too, and I'd have guessed that they're pretty well balanced?

I beg to differ. What about the engineering costs in making a 'box with equal length shafts? I think the Super 1600 'boxes are around £12kish to buy, granted a lot of the cost is in the 6-speed sequential dog-gear setup and cassette unit LSD, but I know Ricardo won't have wasted effort in developing equal length shafts just so that rally teams can utilise the same part both sides. Driveshafts hardly take up a lot of space in support trucks. The shorter sections aren't hollow, certainly not on the Polo one I cut off a scrapped G40 a few years ago. It was most definately solid! (and nicely bent, but that's another story...) If the shorter, thicker shaft is equal in torsional stiffness to the lengthier one - how come the big power (and torque) G40 boys always break the longer thinner one? As for controlling a car with unequal length shafts - an open diff does the work for you, to stop you being pulled all over the place. Which is why LSDs with high ramp angles tend to make the car very snatchy to drive. I nearly binned the first Polo I drove with an LSD in, but it was fun... If you watch some of the cars with the 085 transmission burnout at Santa Pod you'll see the passenger side wheel ALWAYS spins up the most if they're running an open diff - even on my mate's LHD G40. Engineering, ah yes. Pays my bills too... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Seriously, that's ****. There are thickness differences (on the Polos shorter passenger side one is thicker to cope with the higher stresses), and you'll find on any VW (even LHD ones!) using an 085 derivative transmission with an open diff will tend to spin up on the passenger side wheel first. Look at the Polo Super 1600 rally car gearboxes - they run equal length driveshafts for a reason... Back to tyre wear, my 160bhp 160lb/ft G40 has now done almost 15k on a full set of A539s - they need rotating again, but they've probably got another 3k minimum in them before being illegal. The key I find is in rotating them regularly, front to back and (because they're not directional) side to side. Really helps get the extra mileage out of them. They have a hard life too, done quite a few RWYB sessions on them with burnouts and I'd say I'm a fairly keen driver.

Cheers for that - actually is what I wanted to hear! Any inlet and exhaust differences aren't really important, I'm just trying to establish whether there's any penalty on using the 75PS basic block and head instead of a 100PS version. The pistons are definately a different part number, but that doesn't mean a whole lot, hence me asking the question. What about cams? Does any kind person with access to ELSA fancy looking up the cam profiles? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Reeto Nicki! Cheers for that. I've been geeking on ETKA, it seems that the following have different part numbers between the 75PS and 100PS versions (I've only briefly looked at the engine block and head parts): cylinder head cams (both inlet and exhaust) pistons The crank seems to be the same, and I presume the engine block is too. I'm guessing that as the above bits are different the cams in the 100PS may well be lairier, and that there may be a difference in compression ratios? Could do with a bit more detail than what ETKA has to offer really.

I've tried using the search function to find out, but couldn't get it to work? Anyway, can someone give me a definitive answer to the question - what are the key differences between the 75PS and 100PS versions of the 1.4 16v engine as used in the Lupo/Polo 6N2?

Good effort.

Ah, so you'll be familiar with the Gainsborough 'bridge test' then? What's the Lupo do?

@LINCSLUPOGTI - whereabouts in Lincs are you? Are you the guy from the Gainsborough area I've heard about?