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amstrange1

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    Polo CL Turbo Nissan 350Z Tata EV

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  1. I'll have a spare 085 Quaife available in a few weeks, brand new - PM me if interested. Also have a DR Engineering Grippa plate LSD for sale, brand new for £550 (£774 new).
  2. Sent you a PM - just wondering if you've got a postage quote? Cheers!
  3. I'm in Warwickshire - no tyres please!
  4. Are they VW centre bore? What sort of price are you after posted?
  5. amstrange1

    G40 Lupo

    Pete changed his mind and bought a Mk2 Golf - though I think that's gone now too! I'm just thinking of a temporary home for my engine so I can spend some time rebuilding/restoring my 'heck but still have a fun toy.
  6. amstrange1

    G40 Lupo

    So Polo 6N mounts are the same as a Loop?
  7. amstrange1

    G40 Lupo

    How do Nicki! Has anyone dropped any Polo engine into a Lupo? If so, what mounts need changing?
  8. amstrange1

    G40 Lupo

    Has anyone ever built one?
  9. The K04's not that much bigger than a K03... I'm using a K03 to good effect on a 1.3 8v motor, if I was looking at a 1.6 16v lump a K04 would seem to fit the bill - or perhaps something a bit larger depending on the motor spec. Fitting a massive turbo to a small engine isn't going to automatically blow it up - you've got to spool the damn thing first, then get naughty with the wastegate control to start making silly enough boost to cause damage. Bear in mind the stock actuators supplied with the likes of K03/K04 turbos have soft springs for low base boost settings - on the 20v motors the good old N75 valve bleeds off boost pressure from the actuator vac line to keep the wastegate shut long enough to make decent amounts of boost. I stuck a K03 on my Polo motor with standard actuator settings, and only got 0.3 bar of boost. For the record, my limited experience of Rothe stuff is good. My manifold and downpipe were secondhand, and have taken plenty of abuse so far without any grief.
  10. amstrange1

    1.6 16v Turbo?

    Over 210hp has been done naturally aspirated apparently, and I know someone quite well that got a dyno-proven 260hp with a supercharger. The safe max rpm of the 'charger was limiting the peak power, as he couldn't rev the engine high enough to find out what it peaked at without risking the 'charger. The car ate gearboxes.
  11. All I'm saying, is my Polo has a screwed rear brake cylinder and it's causing similar problems. That's not to say your issue is guaranteed to be exactly the same. I think LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI covered all of the possibilities!
  12. Bogg Brothers in North Yorkshire can make up inlet manifolds to fit bike bodies (and carbs) onto cars. Not that cheap either - £170ish. If you were to use Megasquirt and do it yourself you'd almost certainly be able to reuse a lot of the existing sensors from the Lupo, but would probably be easiest to use the bike throttle position pot. Do the Lupos/Arosas not have crank trigger wheels already? Or is it only some models? If you're going to be paying someone to do it, it won't come cheaply! Edit to add: bike bodies - I picked up a set of Kawasaki Ninja ones for £20 on eBay standalone ECUs vary in price a fair bit, e.g. Emerald unit is £500ish eBay is useful for airboxes and filters cheaply new Bosch fuel injectors can be had for around £150 per set of 4 (though you may be able to use the bike units, depending on which ones you get)
  13. I don't think that bike bodies are ideally suited to a car engine, the rate at which the throttle plates open makes low throttle openings quite difficult to control. Having said that, there are ways around it - and you're always reading in the magazines about people bolting them on to old cars successfully. If you're looking at getting your hands dirty trying to get bike bodies working sounds like a real fun project, in line with the budget DIY approach you could build and map your own Megasquirt ECU to control the fuelling. I'm sure someone else will help out with the more commercially available options, Jenvey could sort you out with the throttle bodies themselves - as for management there's a plethora of options, and you're probably best going for a system that your local tuner is familiar with to facilitate the mapping process. Just an idle thought - is there a particular reason you want to stick with the one litre lump?
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