grazo22

I would 100 million percent recommend just getting a second set of top mounts. That's the job that took the longest and I hated doing the most. It's far easier to just swap the struts over.

Roight It's only 4 weeks until I get Lemmy Lupo back. 1 problem which has bugged me and I would like to get sorted is the revving. It's pretty simple to explain, you rev the car, take your foot off the pedal and there is a delay before the revs die down and they die slightly slower than usual. I've got a Bosch Lambda sensor on the car which I got from a part supplier, certainly the correct one. Speaking to a pal in the garage the other day he said that could be the reason and they a genuine lambda sensor will react quicker even if they are made by the same people (Bosch) Just wondering if anyone has any experience of this or if there is anyway I would be able to change this on VAG-COM Merci

Hey you know what you're on about. I'm fairly certain they aren't stretch bolts however I believe they are suppose to be done to a correct torque then turn through 90 or 180deg, I can check if you want but I'm having computer melt down at the moment!! I've taken my engine out 3 times now (not for fun), Here's a list of things I did to do it. Remove the following in this order which is probably right but working from memory inner arch liners top grill surround with grill lighting and radiator electrical plugs drain coolant from bottom hose (trying to save it) remove lower half of bumper take out headlight (don't break any lugs because that's just bad) front cross member unbolt front panel rip it off. Now on to engine fuel lines exhaust downpipe and cat dog bone mount battery battery tray disconnect all wiring on engine take airbox off for easier access to everything and extra light gear linkage on the back noting where it is on the selector with the slot, don't loose the small clip drive shafts, m8 12 spline needed air lines, heater matrix pipes powersteering pipe any thing which holds the engine to the car They last but not least, gearbox and engine mount (do the 1 bolt which will let it free, no need to do the others) Then you should be able to lift her out have one of these first Then because you hate doing this on Christmas Eve do this They get on with it

Hello Mate Lots of things to consider, mount being one, exhaust, electronics, drive shafts being some bigish ones. When upgrading one thing you often will have to upgrade others like brakes and strengthening. If you have a look around there is lots of info about how people have done different conversions. The easiest would be engines which originally went in a lupo but then again you could just buy one with a bigger engine in the first place

It should go, spring, spring cap, bearing, top mount, flared nut, top cap then lock nut supplied with coilies. When I did mine I took the top spring retainer from my original sus and popped that on top of the spring retainer from the coilies so my bearing had the correct seating.

Collared nut always goes on top of the rubber top mount as it applied pressure between the bearing and the mount. Coilover instructions don't really exist for that part

Yes I'll be there in my golf round the track well julys one

Could be the fuse for the radio in the main fuse box, can short when changing over or the fuse in the back of the headunit

sorry forgot to mention the gearlinkage is different, agu engine used cable throttle body, hydraylic clutch so modified pedal box also, would need to uprate brakes with carbon lorraine pads and high carbon discs or do a g60 conversion

it think gearbox is an 02a or 02j but i can't remember. Wiring harness you could buy a donor car and just take the whole lot out and use those clocks. Otherwise you would have to get the new ecu demobilized to run with the lupo barrel. There is a company who can connect the 2 looms together from my recollection, look under thread "My 1.8t conversion" as it's mentioned in there. Custom drive shafts, custom exhaust and downpipe, custom engine mounts, custom front panel and piping for intercooler and rad. It's a huge job that I have been contemplating for a long time. I wouldn't start without a donor car (A3 1.8t sport) that's the best as it's cheap as chips and parts you don't need are worth a bit. I would also want at least £1500 cash on top of the donor to make sure I could get everything done correctly.

Engine building is a very exact science and has to be done to such fine tollerances. It's something I would only attempt once I was 100% sure I knew exactly what I was doing. From other info I've read about the block does become deformed. If you are desperate though put it back together until it blows up Otherwise it's just scrap metal!!! There is a good tool called plastiguage which if fab for rebuilts. I have an AFK engine in my lupe and it's not easy to find a replacement :S Some fabias have them in. My friend had a rebuild recently by a specialist tuners and due to the tollerances being slightly wrong it completely destroyed the trust bearings in less than 800 miles.

what was in the first to make it turn out 126bhp?

I know this isn't a lupo, but this is the best black car finish I have ever seen. I'm sure it will be for you too http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20493

Here is one of Yonson123's after a clay and AG HDW and my black golf after a wash with zymol, clay with bilthammer soft auto clay and dodo juice born slippy, quick compound with g3 and pads and 2 coats of zymol set in with misting and wipe. Trim with AG stuff Not that impressive but not bad

yeah I had to change mine, bolt goes through the alternator bracket, fairly easy, shouldn't take more than half an hour. I broke the bearing on mine but have a spare spring part if that's the bit that's broken

When I have the money I will 100% be interested, I'll let you know

I want a 3l more and more everyday. Looks fantastic. Any idea how much a replacement front bumper is, just incase I'm interested in importing one

My neighbour and I have both had this recently, it turned out 1 of the plugs was not firing properly, Take them out for a review. This is a vid of when 1 of my plugs was pretty grim and needed a scrub up. You can hear the exhaust plopping with misfire. I had cleaned the engine and some water had got into the plug bore, could also be oil on the tip of the plug. I'm not sure how the oil gets there but sometimes these things happen, like the Higgs Boson http://youtu.be/2RnpUEQOjWU

I love zymol cleaner wax as it's a light abrasive and good to use with a machine. It does dry up very quickly though so you can only do about 1ft sq at a time. Leaves a great long lasting finish though. Megs gold glass is good to do a quicky with as you can do the whole car then buff off.

My friend had this once and it was a connection in the block on top of the battery so make sure they are all tight. It sounds like it might be fuel related so the pump is priming. When you open the drivers door you should hear it do so and also when you turn the ignition on. Do this a few times like you would if the fuel filter had been changed. I would take all the electrical connections off that relate to it firing and ensure they all have wd40 (or similar as I <3 the smell of GT85) on them. Take the plugs out and give them a scrub a dub dub with a plug brush (can get from halfords for a couple of quid) When the plugs are out make sure they are sparking. Hold the lead in a safe place and touch the plug on something metal to earth it, then turn it over. ZAP When you took the axle off you didn't undo any electrics? silly question but often the simplest things are over looked. I have read before that it can be the ignition switch in the barrel.

Thats it actually very cheap. The ones on german ebay go for a packet

Found the section that said about it. It was a work document so was a summary of vehicle theft. It was a 2 minute grab, thought to exist however not used much due to the size of the lorry and forklift attached. There is thought to be a tool that affects VAG group vehicles however this hasn't been confirmed. It's crazy that the BMW OBD port can be used without turning the ignition on though!!!!!! In a dream I had a patent idea of a devise that you place over you BMW obd port to stop potential thieves. You'd only find a broken window if it was secure enough, probably quite cheap to make once the idea is in place and would provide a solution to BMW owners whilst BMW think about aknowlegeing the problem

*form, not for a BMW 1m

I'll try and find the stats today somewhere. I understand its easy because the tool they have enables them to reprogram a new key to the car. I just think whatever for a BMW 1m is in, whether parts or cloned, its going to get people interested. I would have thought they would much rather take an extremely expensive less eye arching 7 series and sell it to the mafia abroad. That s3 theft is very clearly done where they need a fast car for a robbery or something. Oportunistic

Recently some stats were released where there were a number of thefts that cars were being taken using a lorry with a forklift on the back and a tail lift. Reverse it under the front wheels and use the fork lift to lift the back, not setting off the tilt alarm. My next mod is going to be a cat 1 alarm for me. I fail to understand why there is demand for BMWs like this as they are so limited they will attract attention in parts or with a different identity. My dads BMW was stolen recently but it wasn't with an electric key thingy.