Jump to content

Skezza

Moderator
  • Posts

    5,250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    74

Everything posted by Skezza

  1. Regardless of the ins and outs and what not of whether these plates were manufactured legally, it's a bit tight of the coppers. Those plates are very easy to read for other drivers although I don't know what the rule with reflection for cameras etc. I see a guy driving his Audi TT to work everyday and his plates have been botched so they read his name however I'm still unsure as to what the letters/numbers are. It's totally unreadable, in a formal sense. Yet, I see him drive past coppers quite happily without being stopped. Obviously driving an Audi makes you better than everyone else. No doubt if I drove past the same copper in my Lupo with plates like that, they'd be stopping me in no time.
  2. Yep, tried... failed. It's not that I can't make the mounting brackets fit, but they don't actually clip onto anything, it's just not secure. Ive bought one of those plastic caddy ideas. I guess with it being plastic if it doesn't fit first time I can... make it fit
  3. OK, ive been told in good faith that if I attach the mounting brackets to the side, it will go in. bull**** but i'll do it for good humour, then I'll look at alternative solutions to this problem lol.
  4. Hey, I had a stroke of G.A.S the other day and ended up buying myself a double DIN HU with DVD, Navi etc all that lot. Anyway, I've now realised that I haven't actually got a mounting cage for it, my Lupo was single DIN. Its come with some mounting sort of brackets, which I can't for the life of me work out how they'll ever go in the hole WITH the unit, they are far too big. I Changed the OEM to another single DIN, and now I'm trying to convert to Double. So while the the unit goes in the hole, it's too small. I'm trying to gauge from everyone what's the best solution: A Universal Cage: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ca5ef1cea A Caddy Unit: http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/270524644479 DIY: I don't know much about this stuff, but there is like a guide rail on both sides of the hole. Two screws sticking out the unit would easily guide it in... I think :\ then fastening it from the back so it was securely in place. That's probably a bit speculative I know but what do we think? I think this unit will look great once fitted, just, it's currently in the box at the moment and I've only tested to make sure it turns on
  5. old topic, I know, which cable on the after market wiring harness is the dimmer. Although my current stereo doesn't dim, my new one which I haven't fitted... apparently... does the cable is orange on the back of the unit but i don't know which one on the wiring harness to bullet clip. aghh lol!
  6. Skezza

    Dash Switch

    Thanks Pete, Going to see if I can do it today. I was hoping to find an actual toggle switch for the dashboard but I can only find marked ones lol Can't find any templates for 'DIY' buttons lol! I'll just have to cut a hole in a blank or something.
  7. Skezza

    Dash Switch

    How easy is removing the trim ? Any tutorials that you know of?
  8. Skezza

    Dash Switch

    I have a number of blank dash switches that I guess are there in case I want to fit something retrospectively. Now has come the time that I do. How much access is there to the rear of these switches. I know I can't make it look completely OEM, because they are just blankers, but how easy is it to fit a switch. Importantly, the switch needs to go to the rear of the head unit. Cheers
  9. Yep, you need to switch the red and yellow wires on the plug around. This is the permanent live and the ignition live. Should sort out your problems. If you can't switch them by hand, buy a couple of bullet connectors (pennies at Maplins) and DIY the two wires so you can easily switch them as you require. If you aren't feeling too confident with that, I can almost guarantee there's an ISO wiring harness that will do the same thing for 2 quid on eBay. Personally, I recommend using bullet connectors like I did, makes the whole job ridiculously easy.
  10. Hey hey, I was thinking the other day, how easy would it be to fit a GPS receiver in the Lupo? Mere curiosity as I'm not going to fit a radio sat nav for a while. I've seen on some newer cars they have special tunnels to route stuff like GPS antennas under the dash so the maximum visibility can be achieved. This obviously ain't the case on the Lupo, so what would be the best place? I was looking over the dash board, how easy would it be to route it through that vent at the back? I'm guessing quite hard but I'm a curious little cat right now
  11. Start the engine. When I removed the stock radio it said SAFE until I started the engine, then it worked fine.
  12. I know you've already checked the fuse, but I blew mine trying to use an old tyre compressor, so just give it a double check. Apparently they blow easy with older gadgets.
  13. I had this. I bought my Lupo a few years ago. The temperature gauge NEVER worked once, it always stayed at 0. I know very little about cars but I took it into my local garage and he explained that the sensor gave off 2 readings and the one to my dashboard was broken but the one to my actual engine was fine which is why he was able to pass it on MOT. He did say it was worth fitting a new sensor though. Cost me £15 took under an hour to fit, works great now. Reads 100 at normal operating temperature.
  14. Defcon, I have a version of ElsaWin, it's only version 3 thought, which is 2008 I think? Fine for my Lupo though, I can send you a copy if you want or an iso. I haven't got ETKA.
  15. Hey man, Sorry to hear about the issues you've been having. Did you install the ISO wiring harness or use the OEM plug straight into the power feed? I found using the factory VW plug made my radio very erratic. The light up front would be constantly lit, even when the ignition was off and the key removed, but the internal clock wouldn't display on the screen so you'd just see a blank screen that was illuminated. Strange I know, there were other things such as the radio wouldn't cut out when starting the car, but when the car actually started, whatever station was playing would cut out and I'd have to select that preset again even though the radio would appear to be on and tuned. Go on eBay and get yourself a PC2-69-4 (for VW Lupo, don't know about Arosa) wiring harness for about 3 quid. They are quite expensive in Halfrauds so avoid. That fixed all of my issues, regarding power at least.
  16. After some clever twerp decided to snap off the OEM aerial, I replaced the remaining stub with a cheap 4 quid delivered Beesting from eBay. I can say as a matter of fact the new one is far better than the original aerial and I listen to MW, which is the only way you can tell if it's truly better. If you want to stop someone stealing it again, use a drop of blue loctite on the thread. You won't be able to remove it with your hands but a set of grips will get it off with a bit of effort. Don't use the red loctite like my friend did, that **** is near impossible to get it off.
  17. Hi, On the alternator in the photo below, I'm trying to identify the ground and the live. I've labelled the 2 wires A and B because I'm trying to avoid confusion. Which is which? I've assumed it's B because it's massive but I don't want to start scotch clamping incorrect wires. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5606/20120519114432.png Thanks
  18. Okay, a further update, talk about chasing shadows lol. The noise definitely gets louder when going faster and I have noticed in some instances a slight whine. So I think the next step is to fit the suppressor. Is it possible that this is being caused by the head unit? Like, when the car is off, the quality is fine, excellent in fact. No crackles or anything. But don't get me wrong, it's not a Pioneer or Alpine, so could it be the head unit isn't quite up to it? I've also noticed that going through certain places the crackling clears up. Like, I was going through a bit of countryside and the crackling almost disappeared entirely. None whatsoever. Which made me think its a **** head unit, but the thing is, the head unit is fine, excellent quality when the engine is off. I guess the alternator interference suppressor is the last roll of the dice. Dear me. I tell you, it's tough being a complete novice
  19. OK, an update... I fitted a brand new aerial. It's made a huge difference. The audio quality is actually listenable now, but there is still some popping going on. Now, of course, it might be the head unit, but what do you suggest? The popping goes up, as the car gets faster and goes down as it gets slower to a stop. Note, that its NOT a whine, it's specifically popping.
  20. Hey thanks for your response. Ill pop into town at the weekend and see what they say. I'm very pushed for space behind the head unit so any adapter would have to be tiny or alternator mounted really.
  21. hey marvelt, thanks for the response. I went into Halfrauds and grabbed the alternator interference suppressor as I displayed above. The two kids in their knew even less than me, which is scary considering they work in a freaking car shop, I mean, I know **** all. The guy there suggested a radio interference suppressor which is a large box which behind the radio itself. To be honest, I cant imagine there is much chance of fitting the large box so I bought the little suppressor that's connected directly to the alternator. Is there anything else I should be looking for? Video is uploading to youtube, will be live here: Sack the video for the moment, will upload it later, internets playing up lol! In all honesty, I don't think it truly demonstrates the difference. Honestly, with the engine off, it's very clear, with the engine on, its so hissy its untrue. Any further help or fitting suggestions would be great.
  22. Also, would a new aerial help ? The old one isn't in great condition. Or is interference only when the engine is on not really related to the aerial? They're cheap enough on eBay tbf.
  23. Hey guys, As a follow on from my topic a week or so ago, I fitted my new stereo (With varying degrees of success, failure and swearing... ill eventually write a thread about it to help other people. It's better when it's written by a complete muppet because all bases regardless of how insane are usually covered lol!). It now works great, sounds great, and kind of looks pretty neat too. A bit chavvy of course but then again most aftermarket CD players seem to have this boy racer look. It must be a marketing thing because even the top of the range Pioneers, JVCs and Alpines tend to be styled on Blackpool lights rather than casual classiness. Anyway, opinionated bile aside, the radio is working and all that, but I've noticed a problem with MW. It's incredibly distorted when the engine is switched on. As in only when the engine is switched on. Engine off. It's fine, sounds quite good for MW in fact. The OEM one was definitely distorted when the engine was on, but not so badly. I'd say it was at least listenable, if you could deal with a little bit of hiss which sometimes came, went very bad and went. Trust me I got fairly used to it. However this radio, the hiss is unbearable when the engine is on. As in, it's just like a TV with static and nothing else. I'd say you would be lucky to actually understand anything, a single word would be impressive to be honest. What do you guys think? I googled it and as with anything car related, it's very fragmented. No real solutions, lots of speculation, lots of bad suggestions ("chop your unused RCA connectors off and tape the wire ends. This will stop the..." blah blah, mate you're talking ****ing bull****) Halfrauds are selling an alternator interference suppressor for 4 quid : http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_189944_langId_-1_categoryId_265890 I know it's just a capacitor but would fitting it help? Would fitting it be easy? Any tips for a complete newb :)
  24. Cool that's great thank you . I've been looking over the PC5-52 stuff too, can I just use like a scotch clip for that? blue to blue right? None of this connecting blue to red like other forums are suggesting! Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.