jack1988 Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Hi all, going to change timing belt my self to save some monies and want to know how to do it anyway. Ive never changed a cam belt before, ive done quite a bit of research into it it and had a look on ELSA as well as previos posts on this topic. Basicly its the 1.4 16v 100bhp motor is there any stings i should no off?, i understand that the main belt plus the one between the two cams are replaced, thats two intotal, as well as 2 tensioners and a new water pump all for about £100 - £120. After looking on ELSA it apears i could really do with 'camshaft locking tool T 10016' and 'Counter support 3415 with pins 3415/1' do you know if you can get these from the dealers or anywhere else?, also because i just havnt had time to look yet, does the engine really need droping to get to the crank shaft pully?, spose i could lower it using a jack from under the car and some wood. Any feedback would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosscarbry Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 use drill bits for the camshafts. u need to take the engine mount off so what i done was just jack under the sump with wood inbetween it, took the strain off the mount and took it off then lowered it down so you can get to the crank shaft pulley! i know guys down at the local vw garage sumtimes strugle to get the cam to cam belt bang on as they are can lead to being a tooth out but i never had any problem with that but you might! i would say that for your 1st belt it will be a tricky 1 lol it does take abit of time and setting up!good luck any way m8 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupoluke Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 tippex is your friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack1988 Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 tippex is your friendOMG! thats is an awesome idea, i was wondering what i was going to use as a marker!, just out of interest what is they use in workshops, its usely yellow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack1988 Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 use drill bits for the camshafts. u need to take the engine mount off so what i done was just jack under the sump with wood inbetween it, took the strain off the mount and took it off then lowered it down so you can get to the crank shaft pulley! i know guys down at the local vw garage sumtimes strugle to get the cam to cam belt bang on as they are can lead to being a tooth out but i never had any problem with that but you might! i would say that for your 1st belt it will be a tricky 1 lol it does take abit of time and setting up!good luck any way m8 lolThanks for the tips bro, pretty much can visualize how its going to go, only thing is how you turn the engine, via crank shaftpulley? because from the instructions that i have on paper it dosent apear to me that crank shaft pully (for auxillery belt) gets removed, and the little diagram i have shows a 'counter support' tool being used to turn the engine, did you find something else you could use to do it?, because it doesnt look like you could get a socket or spanner on it.Thnkx again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack1988 Posted November 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 Just out of interest i found these, has not got the same VAG tool number but looks the same;http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Camshaft-Sett...-Sealey-VSE2357http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Crank-Pulley-...-Sealey-VS12470Do i really need them?, or is there some place else you can get them cheaper,...... if anybody has these and doesnt need them ill buy them off ya!..... mmm i do like tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosscarbry Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 no pointless buying tools that u will use once mate! yeah tip ex is good but there is a wee marker on the small crankshaft clog (what the timing belt sits on, you will only see when big pulley is removed)! what to do is once you have took the engine mount off, let down the jack till you can get to the crankshaft pulley, set up your timing marks using a rachet and a 19mm double hex socket on the big bolt in the middle of the pulley (turn clockwise) untill the marks are set up and putting in the camshaft lock tools or drill bits. you will then need a buzz gun and the 19mm socket to losen the big bolt and then take off your big crankshaft pulley off but leave the wee clog on that the timing belt is on and put the big bolt back in with a spacer to stop that clog from coming off (if it does come off it should be on a woodriff key so it can only go back on 1 way) then just losen your 2 tensioners and take the belts off! the bottom lock tool that you said about you can just use a drill bit again it just really stops your crankshaft from moving when putting the belt on and losening the big bolt to take it off as the crankshaft clog will want to turn but the belt wont ending up with it silping a couple off teeth. i never used it because i have done lots of timming belts before but really up to you lol hope this helps lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupoluke Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 Also when you done don`t forget to check tensioners are tight, and to turn the engine over by hand atleast twice to check everythings right (ie. valves not hitting pistons). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack1988 Posted November 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Also when you done don`t forget to check tensioners are tight, and to turn the engine over by hand atleast twice to check everythings right (ie. valves not hitting pistons).One last question, on ELSA it say to line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the oil pump case, i had a look from the top of the engine down with a touch and could not see this mark on pulley???, also i knows you say bout using drill bits.... but how? i mean how you use them to turn/counterhold the crankshaft pully? i see how you could sorta use them to hold the camshaft sprokets.Cheers u guys been real helpfulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchell Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 when you lower the engine down look at the bottom pulley from inside the wheel housing withwheel removed of course there is a plastic cover with two raised marks directly above the pulley on the pulley itself you will find a very small nick " v "indentation this should be in line with markings in plastic cover for tdc.also to add the casing is held on with a few 10mm bolts and the one behind the auxilary belt tensioner is a lovely person to get too imho. and yes drill bits ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WLUPO Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Hi,Am looking to change my timing belt very soon.where is the cheapest place folk have found to get their belts from?I see german and swedish offering kits at about £30 for the AHW engine,l but this sems too cheap - most of the kits are around £70.Any ideas?Are the genuine kits much dearer?Can i also confirm that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a 19mm double hex - and not a special sbolt?cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt~black Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) For complete kit ebay i think but for just belt gsf or ecp.Just out of interest and to save making a new topic what are the 2v and 4v lines for on the oil pump and which one are you meant to use i've done several lupo cambelts and never noticed until recently in which case i just went for 4v figuring it might mean 2/4valves per cylinder??? ... mattdoh just realised exactly how old this topic is Edited March 8, 2011 by matt~black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan turner Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 i think my belt between my cams has slipped a tooth car drives fine but looses all poer over 4,000 revs is this due to the belt between the cams slipiing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reed Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 ...and yes drill bits ftw Broken drill bits for the ultimate recycling win? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kabman Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Just a couple of things to add:There are two marks on the block behind the crank sprocket. TDC is when the chamfered tooth on the crank sprocket lines up with the right hand mark.8mm drill bits fit the cam pulleys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporty Arosa Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Anyone else attempted this latley? Im a qualified mechanic ive done quite a few timing belts but this one OMFG what a joke 7 hour job! 40mins per bolt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatelError89 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 yeah done mine just the other week but my engine was out on the work bench when i done it but was still abit of a pig and must be even worse doing it while engine is in the engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporty Arosa Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Nightmare mate those drill bits or 8mm bolts are no good, when I took the cam to cam belt off the cams sprung back! It was hard lining them back up again and stretching the belt on at the same time, it was touch and go lol all is ok now tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatelError89 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 yeah drill bits are a pain in the ass but i had to use them .. when i took the belt off the cams moved as well when i put the new belt on i had turn one of the cams slighty to line it up with the mark as well tho the worst bit of the job was the threads were gone in the engine block for the tensioner bolt so i had use a helicoil kit .. not sure why the did use a blance belt they should of just done one single cambelt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporty Arosa Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Was it the bottom tensioner? I had trouble getting that on it took about an hour I was almost crying for my mother lol thats the price we pay for VW using the same engines in every make and model with little thought about chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatelError89 Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 yeah it was the bottom one was abit of pain but must be worse while in the engine bay no room . yeah they do it too save money just make i fit then not worry till someone has got to fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.