LR5V

Thanks - Will look into these, happy to grind down the extra - but considering both my old tie rod ends only used 35% of the thread I could live with the extra as is. Well ahead of you! - 2 weekends ago I bought a pair of Lemforder ones, same spec as my Mk4, very big difference in length -so big I didn't bother to measure! + the thread that goes into the rack is a M14, when the Lupo one is M12, one size bigger - in all too much to mess around with to get to work and were returned to euro's

The more I find out about my Lupo the more paranoid I am! When I took off the oil to water cooler off to piant the block there was some weird residue under the beige plastic insert. And in its first service with me I flushed the engine - it made a bit difference for the better, free-er reving and quieter engine I strongly suspect there is some gunk in the sump

VW want £100 a side for complete tie rods - How can they justify charging so much? I thought I had found a way of getting pukker quality items for £25 a side The tie rod I removed form my Gti is 324mm long - this is assuming it is Gti one - can anyone confirm bare length of inner tie rod? Looking at the part it is marked TRW, so scurried off to their E-catalogue Under Lupo Gti it lists 2 sizes, delighted to find JAR546 had the length corresponded with mine: Ordered a pair of genuine TRW inner tie rods, £36 - meaning a pair of complete tie rods for around £50 is great. when they arrived the first thing I did was measure them, still in the plastic bag they were 312mm long - so no good I am going to look into this a bit more, currently the 2 people in technical support at TRW are on leave, will try calling in a few weeks. maybe they can find something with the same thread sizes at close to the correct length.

Was taking a bit of a break + weather has not been on my side. Today I visited a couple of scrap yards, for once I was organised, made a list before leaving - but made the list in a rush and forgot one item... Picked up a replacement rear ABS sensor connector - it just would not un-clip so I ended up mangling the clip, replacement sourced form Mk4 Hopefully when these are installed, numpties carving me up will get a good blast form these A3 High Lows. Going to keep the current clown like horn for MOT. Need to make up a relay to power the horns - at least it is close to the engine fuse board! Engine loom nearly re-installed, waiting on Ebay alternator bracket - I need one short bolt to install the new bracket - this is what I forgot at the yards! Holding off installing the inlet manifold until the drive shafts, subframe with rack is installed Speaking of sub frame its entirely built and torqued up, hoping to get some help tomorrow to get this and the rear beam back into the Lupo. I have decided to not re-new my inner tie rods - old ones were OK, no noticeable play, just a bit floppy. VW want £100 a side for complete tie rods - I thought I had though I had found a cheap fix, but the TRW web site lied to me. I am going to hold off putting the front end & exhaust back on until I have dropped the sump. Some male chicken sucker over tightened the sump plug, going to helicoil that, clean out the oil pick up and sump.

Flat blade screw driver - gently pry the black prongs off the metal if the selector cable or like Rich says carb or brake cleaner to get rid of the gum holding it in place - is it copper grease?

Yes- daft money over £30

Mk3 Golf have similar hubs to our Gti's, use carriers & calipers from VR6 brakes that had 288mm diameter discs. But the majority of Mk3's were 5x100 pcd wheels, meaning off the shelf discs wont fit . But Vauxhaull had similar discs with 4x100 PCD - was it Calibra discs? - cant even think of the last time I saw one of those on the road! You have ABS so it shouldn't lock up with bigger brakes. Simpler to just get the G60 carriers - use your current calipers and look into 280 discs and brake pad material. Stainless brake hoses make a nice change to feel as well

@cj1 Please hijack away - I have DBW bike throttle bodies waiting, if I can get them on with existing management it would be really good to know - how do you deal with the map sensor & calculate the volume of air? @Blue Loop Thanks Man

You need to consider what will fit under the wheels you are going to use.

If you are going to the bother of pistons you will also need rods. The only person who does off the shelf stuff for AVY engine is this guy in Norway Rosten Performance he does both - and knows his stuff. Shame the pound is so deflated against the Euro. Schrick do entire cam kits with springs, valves, retainers. Have you read the Lupo GTI Super 1600 ITB (264bhp) thread? Engine management is a big chunk of money, you need to look into what each system offers - my current favourite is EMU Black as you get a lot more features at a lower price point than similar management and it does fly by wire throttle -something you dont see on any cheaper management.

The previous owner did the cams, inlet and exhaust himself - then took it to be re-mapped. If you stick with normal aspirated you will need aftermarket engine management - you have to work backwards working out who you want to map your car and what ECU's they work with. My Cams are fast road, they are not lumpy, it revs like a normal engine till 6k and than goes nuts

5k for 1.8t sounds steep, donor Golf can be had for £500, but you are paying people to do the work. At least with 1.8t you can use the donor ECU and remap - if you go bodies you need aftermarket ECU - at the very least thats £400 for a basic set up + loom. Lots of VW specialists out there, TSR are in Bridgwater Somerset - not too far a stretch from Dorset they have a long history or breathing on VW's give them a call. If you really have your heart set on forced induction and want the best quality, suspect you need V deep pockets - Retropower in Licestershire. Currently building a Mk1 ford Escort for Gordon Murray - highly recommend the You tube films

Thanks fella - have you got all your bits for your beam rebuild? Good news, box is in and wooden block is gone, just need to fit the subframe and the exhaust can get re-fitted properly Its piddling with rain here, so kept myself busy with finishing the Radiator & oil cooler shroud / mount even test fitted the oil cooler pipes, all looking good. The bracket for the cooler is made by Setrab, it is holding the cooler hard against the shroud with no flex - considerably better than the strips that come with the Mocal kit Power steering delete - you have to drain the rack of fluid, I dropped the rack and turned the spline with a 14mm spanner, found the steering to get lighter and lighter as the oil was pumped out - hope I dont regret this!

Good advice - thanks guys

thanks Pete - will slacken them off and re-torque

Thanks guys Pete - They are New - along with the flywheel bolts Sausage - agree, its got to be low due to size - as it stands I've done them to 25lb/ft till it gets confirmed Think its a bad typo in the Haynes - 44lb/ft + 90 degree - must be flywheel, but says pressure plate.

I googled for inspiration - thought the water mark was a give away! It worked - the spanner onto pressure plate and bolt into block worked fine, turns out the most suitable piece of wood to go between block and firewall is supporting the engine... so I got the wife to stop the engine from trying rotate itself and the flywheel is properly attached - just dont know the pressure plate torque?? Spookily - I suspect the recent chat about copper grease in this thread prompted Amazon to send an email suggesting the stuff...what a world we live in today Decided the block was too crusty So removed the alternator bracket & oil cooler filter housing, applied some LGTB friendly masking and got busy with wire brush on drill Applied paint, cleaned chassis legs, replaced cooler filter housing & added oil cooler sandwich plate, this is how it is tonight Paint isnt perfect, but looks a lot better than it was Filled up the gearbox with special LSD oil, only thing stopping it going back on is the pressure plate torque and maybe a helping hand.

I have searched, without success - What is the torque for the 9mm hex head bolts? I'm using Haynes for Polo 2000 to Jan 2002 says its the same as the 17mm flywheel to crank! - They have not earned the title "book of lies" for a reason

Larger version of these were fitted to Mk4 Golf Anniversary's - do you know the PN for the cap? Apparently the Mk4 ones are 1J0 601 161 NZR according to this Youtube And googling the PN brings this thread up that breaks down the individual part numbers Seem to recall someone saying the hex head is the same size as an immersion heater wrench - less than £10 instead of god knows how much for a real key

Think to stop flopping backwards, I will put a block of wood between bulkhead and block & try the below, but the other way around for tightening:

That's a mad price even in Euro's Is that the going rate or the go away rate in Dublin?

No - its a lot smaller than original VR6 rad complete overkill - smaller but more efficient rad allows space for oil cooler too Been quite busy today Good news is I got the rear spring seat adjuster to move - seems the PO must have had shares in copper grease, great if it has not dried up, and too easy to remove if its still wet, really dont like the stuff, it was clogging the adjuster. I ended up cutting a slot in the section I was not going to use and then applied heat, the hilariously named super crack, brake cleaner, rinse repeat several times and it started to move: At least I wont have a week and a half wait for the replacement plus shell out probably £70 for new one. Been holding back on replacing the Gearbox as all my help have flu or away at with the beavers, so decided to just make a start, weirdly I didnt take a picture, but got as far as swapping the flywheel over, old and new, no prize for spotting the lightened one: Lightened fly wheel on, but engine is flapping about, I have to get an assistant to hold the engine/ flywheel still so I can do the 90 degree final tighten. Oh & I found a pot of black engine paint.

I'm still waiting on them turning up - plus I can not be sure the inner tierod is genuine Gti item ....could check for PN... The amazon guy turned up with metal files, got to work tidying my radiator mounting made out of 3mm alloy, need to get some M6 Nylock nuts and washers & the section under the Rad is separate - needs pop riveting to the main part: Its a Polo radiator thicker than original, sadly the extra thickness means it hits the side light and the passenger side mounts do not line up. Was thinking a bit of angle alloybut will have a go with builders tape first. Oil cooler will need part of the front panel cut away to get the pipes to the sandwich plate. Think I will de-grease the whole panel first.

Nice purchase - not that much curbing, I would be tempted to just chuck some rubber on them and roll!

looking good - Are they forged club sport Porsche wheels?