JoeyEunos
-
Posts
428 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by JoeyEunos
-
-
35 minutes ago, Skezza said:
Yes, I fixed it. There's like a metal rod you can bend. It straightens over time reducing the response of the pedal.
Thanks chap
The rod you mention, is it directly under the pedal? Any tips RE how to access said rod or what tools might be needed?
-
-
I'm 34, also elderly FWIW. @mattarosa has no excuse
-
5 minutes ago, Rich said:
I'm on radio two these days . . . . . . . . .
I'm assuming you mean you listen to radio two rather than literally being on radio two (If I've got this wrong then by all means give me nudge and I'll tune in when you're next on)
Joking aside, radio two is slightly trendier than radio four, but that still amounts to a kind of 'tallest dwarf award', and for the most part you should still be at least moderately embarrassed
-
If I were you I'd take a Colin Chapman-esque approach, ie "Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere"
Rather than looking for things to add to the car to make it faster, ask yourself what could I remove? To quote Chapman again, "Simplify, then add lightness"
Edited to include a series of usefull/brilliant quotes from the man himself...http://www.azquotes.com/author/27371-Colin_Chapman
-
Ahhh, the radio 4 reference was a little too cryptic for me to pick up on after a long day
I'm a big radio 4 fan too, much to the amusement of my friends, much scorn and ridicule.
RE the arch liners, they're the 'foamy' type, very maleable. Don't get me wrong, it's not difficult to clean the lip with them installed, I just cant help but feel they could've been designed better as they don't do that good of a job keeping road muck/salt out of the inner arch at all. Very much a kind of 'niether nowt nor summat' piece of kit IMO.
-
25 minutes ago, mattarosa said:
"for curious minds"
the rear arches wont be as bad as the front, bear in mind arosas don't even come with rear arch liners! I installed mine from a lupo.
Hmm, interesting.... Were it not for the road noise issue I'd probably do away with mine, they don't really attach to anything at the top and whilst they perhaps protect things a bit they do allow muck in to get trapped an the inner lip of the rear arch
Cleaning this stuff out would probably be less of a faff with no liner at all I recon.
-
Just scanned through this thread, some real attention to detail going on here, good work fella! I didn't realise how many of these you've had/have, you must really like Arosa's/Lupo's
Congrats on the new addition.
-
All was well in the end, stopped being lazy, moved the lines and placed the stands under the wishbone in a @Skezza stylee.
-
A day off work meant a slow morning at cassa Eunos today, so I thought I'd have a crack at knocking a few more rough edges off the little Lupo
Having dealt with the front wings and arch liners pretty much straight away on this car it had been concerning me slightly that I'd as of yet not removed the rear arch liners for a look, I'd also spotted some corrosion developing on the rear beam
I'd considered having a beam from a breaker car blasted and powdercoated but in the end decided given the age of the little VW it probably wouldn't be economically viable to do so ... None the less, something needed to be done and today was the day to do it!
Rear arch liners removed to reveal plenty of muck but no rust....
The whole area was then given a thorough going over and degrease, then rear beam was then treated to a a vigorous wire brushing. Luckily the corrosion present turned out to be merely surface/cosmetic stuff, here's a pic taken midway through the process...
I decided to treat it with Bilthambers's Dynax UB followed by Dinitrol's 4941 underseal. Ideally I'd have liked to convert any rust left first but time was short and besides, the Dynax UB is formulated to halt/kill existing corrosion so I was confident it would do the job. I find the Dinitrol to be slightly tougher/harder wearing than the Bilthamber underseal hence topping off with that as the final coat.
NB I already had both of these hanging around from previous rust prevention sessions with the Mazda....
In full swing with the Dynax UB...
And a final shot showing the inner arches cleaned up and a top coat of Dinitrol 4941 applied to the beam (Note the rubber inspection 'bung' towards the front end of the inner arch area, perfect for the injection of cavity wax etc)....
Whilst being a but grubby the rear arches were no-where near as bad as the mud traps I found at the front end of the car, either way, they're clean now and that can only be a good thing! Also, having properly treated the beam I'm now confident it will be good for many years to come!
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Silver! said:
Just spoke to Rich; all beams will fit a non GTI and work, but there are differences.
Thanks chap
FWIW I ended up getting busy with my existing beam this morning...
More info on this in my 'member's cars' thread, but in short after a rub back there was little more than cosmetic/surface rust, I'm confident that now it's been treated the original beam will last for the rest of this cars life without any problems.
-
Crankcase breather!
When you say it's burning oil, how much? IIRC VW consider up to 1l per 1000 miles as 'within tolerance' for some engines
-
No worries. TBF it's probably not worth the time/effort on mine, will likely just grind back and treat the existing beam.
-
[@media]
^ Couldn't help it
Seriously though, as @Sausage said, get a cheap code reader and have a look
[/media@]
-
FWIW I run a slight stretch on the Eunos (195/50 R15 on an 8j rim) and have done for years without issue with ftting new ones or trouble with plod for that matter, although TBH it's by such a small amount that it's barely perceptible.
Also worth mentioning is that I choose to do this as a matter of basic economics rather than because of any problems with rubbing or any desire to earn 'scene points'
225/50 R15 are hella expensive...
-
29 minutes ago, Silver! said:
Exactly what am in the process of doing. I have sourced a beam and will be picking it up in a couple of weeks.
Then to get it stripped, treated and powder coated and swapped over. Most likely next spring.
Good crack
Silly question... Are all Lupo rear beams the same irrespective of model?
-
^ I can understand that.
Love my little SDI! I bought it as a daily hack and have subsequently lavished more care and attention on it in the four months I've had it than my 'proper' car
These little cars seem to get under your skin IME...
Despite my mates/family taking the piss, irrespective of the fact that it's terrible to drive and has a really cheap feel to it when compared with my previous hack (Mk4 Golf) I've really bonded with mine for whatever reason...
Did this go to someone on the forum?
-
On 30 June 2016 at 11:01 AM, Silver! said:
New KW v1 Inox fitted. Need some tidying\remedial work under there soon.
Shite photos, but it needed to be done...
First things first, lovely car Sir
Having just scanned through this thread I'm really impressed with the amount of time and effort you've put into this!
One question I would ask is when looking at the shock mount/beam-end in the picture above (First pic), doesn't the level of corrosion there worry you? Mines much the same, and whilst I know it's good thick steel I can't help but hatch plans in my head to buy a spare and have it blasted/powder coated or at the very least rust treat my existing beam in situ...
-
^ Wise words, my experience (Ropey Mk4 Golf 1.4 16v) has been that when these pipes clog or get blocked oil consumption rises exponentially as oil is forced out here there and everywhere...
@juicyjay7 Get the pipes checked/cleaned and also check and clean the oil breather module connected to the block if needed
-
Thanks chaps
TBH I felt/feel fairly daft asking about this but having had a look underneath it looks fairly odd when compared with other cars I've worked on...
@cj1 I did have missgivings about leaving stands under the beam for extended periods, out of interest I suppose it's safe to jack on though? Also, the 'Round circular point' you mention... Are you refering to the large rubber/plastic inspection 'bung' that sits in front of the rear wheel and back from the sill by about 6"?
If so I''ve popped that out on a few occasions but purely to inspect inside and look for hidden corrosion, I had no idea that it was safe to jack/put stands there
@Skezza I had thought of using the rear wishbones, although the fact that there're (Fuel lines?) there that I'd have to shift/pull to one side put me off TBCH, pure laziness on my part really
As an aside to the suggestions already made, does anyone have any thoughts RE putting stands under the the chassis mounting points for the rear beam? They're huge and also round-ish so would fit into the stands well, pretty tough and designed to take the weight of the car so seem perfect... Any thoughts?
-
Blocked crankcase breather/pipework seems likely...Loads of older VW engines do this I'm afraid, the good news is it's not usually indicative of any serious problems
Take the pipework off and clean it out, monitor for further build up of 'mayo' and clean again as required IME.
-
As per the title really...
I plan to get the car in the air over the next couple of days for a deap clean and it struck me that I'm not sure as to where the best place to put stands at the back end would be... Lot's of folk seem to put them under the sill, I'd 100% like to avoid that if possible for obvious reasons
FWIW I usually jack at the rear using the shock mount at the bottom, would it be advisable to put the stands under the horizontal rear beam? Any better ideas?
Thanks in advance chaps
-
^ My thoughts exactly
-
Yikes, genuinely had no idea you were one of the £20 winder handle peddlers Rich
I'm pretty thrifty (Read tight), but as you say if people are willing to pay that then why not...
throttle pedal too low
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
^ No sweat, I'll have a look tomorrow and see what's going on