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Mobieus_uk

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Everything posted by Mobieus_uk

  1. fun project, personally you description seems like a release bearing, if so thats a gearbox off job and replace the clutch as the bearings as far as im aware come with clutch kits, lack of power i would look at getting it compression tested just to eliminate poor compression
  2. When i pulled out my float assembly its a very simple variable resistor that is used to measure fuel level, i had problems with the gauge no going over halfway, i used some very fine emery paper and polished up all the connections on the resistor and the connecting piece on the arm, you may find that the lower end of the scale needs a clean and dispite your fuel levels it wont read lower than 1/4 tank, its a easy job if you have already removed the assembly once before
  3. according to this website there is only 1 code that starts with A and ends with B and thats AUB http://www.idealengines.co.uk/engine-codes.asp?make_id=78&mo_id=31138&part_id=517&pname=vw-lupo-engine-codes
  4. just get one of those bikeracks that fit on the boot lid
  5. thats check was dated july 2015 so wouldnt hold your hopes up that the car is still about
  6. that was then this is now, maybe car is scrapped
  7. its trapped, the cable hangs from the little clip thats in the end of the beam, loosen the nut as its acting as a clamp, once loose you should be able to get the cable out just look at mine and the cable is in amost exactly the same place, you can see your cable is not in the clip properly so somehow its worked its way up i think using the jackstand on the rear beam is not helping, us another spot so the beam can drop it may free it up
  8. does it look anything like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-Arosa-998cc-01-03-Fuel-Pump-and-Sender-/360803583534?hash=item540191c62e:g:TnEAAOxygj5SmIVF
  9. they may have changed their policies then, you will find with insurance that the best deal this year will be the worst next year last year privilage gave the best deal at 1700, i know its high but factors like where you live and what you do for a living have a big impact, this year after 1 years no claims they came in at 1400, admiral did it for just over 1000 but the catch was i had to pay fully upfront, still saved 400 though this is with a 18yearold, 20year old and myself on a 1.7sdi
  10. you sure thats correct, no hits on the mot history database or eurocarparts
  11. if you still have a current MOT its still valid, they changed the rules a few years ago and said that a failure would cancel out any MOT left, they changed it back again https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/after-the-test
  12. Ingenie like to take the law into their own hands and fine you everytime you go over the speed limit, so when they say you premiums good down with good driving the opposite applies too, last year i insured my son with privilage for 1700, this year with 1 years no claims its cost just over £1000 with admiral, no black box on either insurance i always use moneysupermarket to ge the quotes, paying the premium in one go can save you money as well but understand that may not be possible
  13. maybe a good old thrash is whats needed, get engine nice and hot burn off all the crap
  14. you need a code reader to check for codes, from the codes given you will get a hint about whats wrong, the light is just advising you that theres something not quite right
  15. not all usb devices are supported http://www.kenwood.com/jp/usb/english.html
  16. I don't know what the connections are like but if possible have you tried swapping the sensors to see if the problem moves, if its possible and the problem moves its a safe bet its the sensor, if it doesn't then its more likely the wiring
  17. google your local area, there are plenty of independents who have the gear to cut a key and copy a transponder and will do it at a fraction of the cost
  18. compare with the other side, you are out by the thickness of a human hair, maybe checks a friends car and get some reference numbers are you fitting vw discs or another brand?
  19. are you sure your reading the gauge correctly, I think the increments are 0.01 making your readings 0.05 and 0.09, that not a lot in mm, Ive not used those types of gauges before so maybe someone can clarify I'm pretty sure the small needle is 1mm increments so if you had 0.9mm that would move to show nearly 1mm but it hardly moves so methinkk you have a decimal point in wrong place making you think your run out is greater that it actually is
  20. has this been fixed yet, if so what was the cure
  21. it would be cheaper to insure a car that has the engine you want as standard, stciking a 1.4 into a 1.0 could make it very hard to insure as only a few providers will insure for a engine swap, best way to look at it if you want a faster car then buy a faster car, trying to build one will give you many headaches unless its for the track
  22. got a picture handy to know what it looks like
  23. you said it first, good call
  24. any news on this one, curious to know what the problem is
  25. 1st thing i would do is find out what power I'm getting at the moment as if you have a tired engine with a output lower than stock i would ask myself the question is it worth the bother with this engine, unless of course you have fully stripped and rebuilt the engine and know its history,
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