Sausage

You've changed the price upwards, that's going the wrong way.

Looks like a home made cam locking tool or similar?

You need to make the roll bar go nearer the arm. If the other wheel is on the ground and forcing it up, then you will be fighting against it.

I could be interested if the price is right. You've sold some bits though me thinks? How long has it been standing? PM me for email addy and then send me high res pics please.

Does the free strip and quote include a free putting it back together again if you decide to not use their services because they are too expensive? Or do they leave it in bits and expect you to take it as is? If they have done these boxes before they should be able to quote over the phone for a simple rebuild assuming it's just bearings and seals without opening it. That should give you a figure to go from. The full bearing and seal kits seem about £100 mark, there's some rebuild ads on ebay that will give you a figure too.

Gearbox bearings then mate, sorry. Yeah, avoid driving that hard if you want to save the gearbox and rebuild it. You can stooge about in it now but you have to listen carefully to what it's telling you. You could always put some thick oil in there to shut it up a bit if it's just starting to whine, but that's just masking the problem and possibly had already been done. I should also learn to read LOL, i just reread your OP and saw this seemingly for the 1st time (sorry): "in neutral if I let the clutch out slow the noise is quiet, let the clutch out fast and the noise is loud!" Yeah, that's saying input shaft bearings right there.

At what point does the noise go when pressing the clutch pedal? experiment a bit and see. it doesnt increase with revs in neutral you say? or does it? The 3 likely suspects are release bearing (you did actually change it? LOL) pilot bearing (quite rare) and input shaft bearings on gearbox, which given it's an 085 box seems quite likely, though the weakest and most prone bearing is on the output shaft and wouldnt make any noise unless you are driving it.

Does it have a dual mass flywheel? Do any lupos have them i dont know? if the noise increases in line with engine revs in neutral then it's rotational. I'd confirm that 1st. It's probably worth a quick look at the old clutch for signs of mechanical contact damage. It could be a really shagged pilot bearing, but they usually are noisy with the pedal down. Is there a return spring on the clutch arm on top the gearbox?

Indeed it is and that's another reason why I want it gone.

Is there a diagram including that box? I cant find one. here's the box for reference: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-cleaner-box-VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-A2-8Z-Arosa-6Y-Polo-1-4-TDI-AMF-6N0129622A-/321872179575?fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item4af113b177 Yeah, i'd get the bits used so looking at £25 the lot (plus filter on top) the car isnt worthy of many new parts There's too much noise from the filter there, so if i cant find the bits to go original I'll route a hose down to the remaining air box half under the chassis and secure a large filter down there.

Awesome, this thread made me LOL. Good car, dirt cheap bargain there.

Most likely, one has the bearing carrier on the end, the other relies on the bearing in the bellhousing I think. If the wiring, bolt pattern is the same then bung it on. Stick a bit of grease on the end of the shaft if it is using the gearbox bearing though.

My tdi has a cone filter (in bad shape) and the top part of the vw air filter housing is still under the arch. I want to revert to standard air box and stick a KN filter in it. Pics.. (no laughing at the back) (No, that's wd40... ) Pics of it look like this that i found: http://www.partsbase.org/vw/lupo-lupo-3l-tdi-lu-eu-2001-12923-air-filter-with-connecting-parts-intake-connection/ But the lupo tdi pics i see seem to have an extra box in the engine bay like this: What bits do i need? From the diagram linked above it's just the air box and the pipe to the MAF, but what about this extra box thing that i keep seeing instead, is that a newer version of it? I guess i'm asking how is your air box plumbed in?

Stick an old towel on the screen clipped under the wiper, makes for a quick get away in the cold mornings....

No harm in mixing it. box takes about 2.7L from empty. Make sure you can undo the fill plug before draining otherwise, well you can work that out.... the plugs can be stupidly tight so make sure you have a good 17mm hex socket and a long breaker bar.

It has no cat at all already.

Reason for asking is I dont have one on my TDI and this is the 1st time i've had to think about it. I know they tightened up on it a couple of years back. The last MOT ran out september 2014 and it has straight thru pipe from flexi to back box. Found this on searching about it dated december 2014 on another vw forum "its simple as this a diesel will pass a mot with no cat as long as it passes the smoke test..we at work haven't heard any thing different of vosa and I rang them for clarification and was told the above comment.. Petrol cars do need a cat on to pass the mot..You can argue with it all yous like but that is the information I got of them" Is that information correct? I'd like more certainty before taking it for an MOT as i'll then be on a deadline to make up an exhaust for it if it fails on that. Cheers

Clear the codes and see what comes back as some could be old codes from your vacuum hoses. Depending on what codes come back....If your Lupo had a MAF it would likely be that, but it doesnt apparently, so next best thing is your MAP sensor as you have codes for it anyway and it does a similar job. I'd start there.

A small mirror is always handy, makes these sort of things a whole lot easier.

H'mmm, i'd be checking that car over for any other signs of accident damage too.

I was going to post yesterday, but i'd had a few beers and thought better of it LOL Not sure how low until the shaft hits the chassis, but it seems it might be worth reading up on how VOSA might be taking a dim view of it these days, before proceeding. http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=963730 i wouldnt have bought a car that had a chassis notch before that change, i defo wouldnt buy one now.

Looking at some of the archive threads they are useful but often missing pictures and incomplete. I was just reading a guide on cambelt change on lupo 1.0, http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/89324-lupo-cambelt-change-10/ he did a good job but lost interest and rushed the finish so forgot to say the important part of how to tension the belt. I was intending to post how to do that part but cant. So what now i have to repost a new version of the archived thread just to add that part in? I'm not sure why they ended up in archive maybe it was a forum reboot or move, but it's a bit of a mess like it is.

Soak, heat, shock, ....rinse and repeat. Soak it, leave it, soak it again, heat it until the fluid boils, soak it some more, heat it some more. Shock it with hammer taps (mind the threads LOL) and then whacking it round with a blunt chisel. Blunt chisel otherwise you cut lumps of metal off. An SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel would be next on the list. A pair of large stilsons are quite handy too. Oh yeah, mind the threads.... and dont go too mad with the heat on shock absorbers. yep petrol / old engine oil mix makes cheap fluid if you dont have any.

Measurement is probably diameter of the threaded part.

LOL, yes no offence intended by that, I'm 46, so an old fart by most standards on here. Just getting back into cars after a long break, bought my lupos as projects to tinker with and return to my roots.