mk2

Ok, everything is working... All i can say is that now I've seen it all. My life is complete. The 15A fuse that came with the system blew when i first switched everything on. So naturally i had assumed (incorrectly) that i'd cocked up the wiring. After dinner i thought, ok, i'm out there with a torch. I checked everything again (easier when it's dark as you can easily tell when the indicators flash). Buzzed everything out with my meter- all checked out. Hmmm. So what the hell, I thought, i'd stick a smaller 10A fuse in, as i don't like to stress the wiring. Plugged it in and hey presto, with no changes at all, it works just the way i expected. Perfect. Cheap nasty chinese fuses. 'Nuff said. Who would ever expect the chinese to even make fake fuses....? I mean come on, a fuse?!?!!

I dunno...? Since i don't have the cars wiring diagram, i have to guess. My thinking is that i coukd connect up the two positive indicator feeds from the remote base unit directly to each sides (left and right) lamp feed. But i'm not sure it'll work. I know there's a direct link between the central hazard switch and the indicator lamps, but i don't think the lamp power wiring goes near the indicator stalks. From my understanding (without ever having seen a lupo wiring diagram), the indicator switches simply 'call' a signal feed that is relayed via the hazard switch (which doubles as the indicator flasher unit). At least i know that the two 'brown' positive feeds do actually give a decent +12V pulse, which could be used to directly power the indicator bulbs. If there are power lamp feeds to left and right groups of indicator bulbs, any idea of the wire colours? I could splice into them very easily if they are on the steering column......! Cheers skezza

and the original instructions in Chinglish... I got it working ok, but I'm struggling with the indicator repeators. I tapped into the two wires on the steering column. Where have I messed up?

Ok, so here we go again... I had a look at Skezza's write up, but without a diagram, it gets tricky. Wiring a system into an 'S' spec car is easy, as you just tap into the existing central locking wiring. Installing a brand new system into an 'E' or poverty spec car seems to be defeating me! Here goes: Wired like this-

Checked throttle response- as in does the ecu see it go from 0-100 - no problems there. Also swapped out injector no1 for another known good one, to see if i can get the injection quantity balance evened out. If you look at the measurements above, no1 injection is being added to. By my calculations, if the ecu is being forced to add extra fuel for each injection pulse, it must mean that one of the holes is clogged. So i remeasured after swapping and going to work and back, and now it's even worse! Huh? What the carp is going on? I now have a hunch that the plunger/distribution thing is leaking on cylinder one outlet. Basically pump is probably buggered. Anyone got a spare SDI pump that i could try?

So here's the history to explain all my madness... over the last year. Engine sounded ok but occasionally when hot there was a distinct ticking or pinking sound, as if it was injecting too early. So after messing with pump timing (no effect), running a purge and changing all filters, came to the conclusion there must be a blockage in the tank. Engine was now down on power by a lot and ticking noise all the time (I have two SDIs so can compare easily!). So checked the strainer in the tank. No air leak in fuel lines either. All fine. Hmm. Must be the injectors. So whipped them out and after giving them a good clean, took them to a local place that has an injector tester. All five ports on each injector just fine. All good there too. Chatted with the diesel specialist who thinks its dead cert that the pump has had it. After 92k miles?!? So after much research things started to point to the quantity adjuster servo system being out of whack which can happen apparently (according to interweb). Ok, so out with VCDS last week and sure enough the injected quantity reading per stroke was way too high at idle- like 10mg. Did the bump (hammer) mod thing (as it's called!?!)- or servo position adjustment as I call it, and nudged it down to 4mg. Drove cr and definitely an improvement, but still very much down on power. So as an experiment, nudged it right over to make it idle at 2000RPM when hot, and my god my SDi turned into a rocket ship. Way more power than stock. Ok, so IMHO the pump must be ok. So, I conclude that there is a problem with the QA servo or something related to that. I'm guessing that the servo pickup is telling the ECU that the amount of fuel delivered is too high, so when I demand full power, it thinks I'm getting a full load of fuel, but in fact the pump is delivering probably less than half. So this evening I whipped off the top of the servo head to see what s going on in there. All looks ok. Clean and no jams or anything. I watched how the ECU calibrates itself on powerup, to get the max, then min voltage limits, so it knows where the arm is sitting, in relation to the fuel dump ring on the pump shaft. So I thought if I can change those measurements, I should be able to shift the idle point and subsequently the max power point. There is a calibration reluctor ring on the left side of the horseshoe pickup which you can move to change the limits- see pic. Tried changing them to max then min, while doing the QA injection calibration to get idle back to 2.8mg, but still no change. I'm just about out of ideas! So presently the idle setup is like below. I did notice that the injector variation is quite high which I'm a little concerned about- it might indeed mean my pump's knackered. other pic.

Uh, ok. Any suggestions on how to get my power back to normal...? I'm sure its something to do with adaption, but i've never played wuth that on an SDI.

Just had a closer look at that map table... if you look at the max servo voltage, upper reading it measures 4.380 volts. On the map chart that equates to about 27 milligrams per stroke of fuel. The max fuel per stroke at top RPMs is about 51, which clearly explains why the car is gutless, running only about half power! To get maximum fuelling, that upper measurement 'has' to be at least 4.50 volts... I'm not sure, but i think the only option is to adjust the servo pickup arm position, by moving it clockwise. Undo locknut, move then tighten up again and re-measure eveything.

That's a really useful plot. Awesome info! Yeah the pump is the same across the entire range- i think the VE diesel pump is used for lots of makes and models. The only thing different physically are the addition of a turbo or different injectors. Our SDIs use 5 hole 0.170 size nozzles. The settings should be about the same as a 1.9 SDI or TDI, as at idle the engine drag is about the same. They all need about the same amount of fuel feed to keep the RPMs at about 920. So maybe my measurements of 0.620V to 4.380V are ok after all. Before i shifted the servo mechanism to the left the readings were different, like 0.60 to 4.7. I had a lot more power, but the IQ was about 11 or 12, which is obviously wrong. The hammer mod is great, but it only tricks the position pickup sensor. I don't think the IQ quantities are measured at the no. 3 injector (even though though technically it would be possible)- the numbers shown in Vcds are calculated form the map. But i just don't know for sure. When i get time, i'm going to plug into my other SDI and get some readings (that car runs like brand new). Do you know how adaption works, or where to change it?

year? edit- duh, yeah its a V reg....

Ok, so I've tried to figure out if these settings are right (without any reference sources). See screen shot. There's an adaption setting somewhere, which I believe can be changed to alter the sensitivity of the throttle servo- something like change 32768 to 32700? But where is it??? Right now the car is completely gutless, but the QA adjustment is right. I think the upper servo pickup reading is low however. Before I unscrew the top of the pump and adjust the sensor arm position, I'd like to try the adaption routine. Think it may do anything?

Glad it helped someone out!

What system do you use? Is it the unlocked version of vagcom (vcds)?

I can't think how the other fuelling maps could be accessed on a SDI. I mean the only inputs are rpm, temps, pedal and injection begin/end. Looking at how the pump works, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realise that the amount of fuel to inject per stroke is primarily determined by how far to the right the 'dump ring' (as i call it) is shifted. More right, more fuel. Left, less fuel. The rev limiter is 100% electronic. If i had a spare pump, i'd be tempted to rig up a cycle brake cable or somthing a make a manual throttle as an experiment. The ecu would throw a wobbly, as the engine would be doing exactly what was demanded by the driver..... i'm amazed at how simple it is.

Well I've nudged the servo assembly over to the right and now we're idling at about 2000 rpm. Huge increase in power/torque. So I need to drop the revs using Skezza's adjusting thing... Will keep you posted.

Have just changed the injectors over and have cleaned everything inside the pump. New seals and everything is god to go. I was about to start messing with the QA settings (everything is still factory- but a bit out), but thought I'd see if anyone on here has ever been brave enough to get stuck in. I know you can change the injection start point, but the servo mech in the pump can be 'tweaked'.... Can't believe how much metal material was stuck to the magnet (for the servo motor arm). On the same subject, does anyone know how the adaption routine works?

I'll possibly need some bits... still doing the ongoing restoration...

It all because everyone knows that 3 cyls are just plain wrong... Here's a pic i found on t'inter'web:

I have two sdis with very dodgy boxes. One is whiney. The other chatters. They'll go pop soon. Just no time for me to pull them and do the bearings. I think its the same for everyone... There are a few old but salvagable sdis on gumtree like this one (could pull the box out of that and sell the remaining parts): https://www.gumtree.com/p/volkswagen/volkswagen-lupo/1239635362

Not a stretched limosine... nice photoshop work!

Lots of before and after pics please

Scrub that... Ignore the throttle thing... Misread your Q. Yeah, check timing. Nothing to do with the throttle!

Yeah sounds like throttle position sensor is giving the system unusual numbers. The throttle servo works by supplying a varying voltage (pwm actually) to the throttle motor- which should respond exactly with what is being supplied. So ecu demands say 15% throttle then measures the tps voltage, which should tell it that it is 15% open. It should tally. If it doesn't, it usually means the tps is knackered, the throttle valve is stiff (gunged) or the whole assembly is on the way out. Or it even might be a loose connector to the throttle body. the other is like mobieus says...

So not a stretch then...

Try Boyriven. When I do retrims, they usually have the genuine stuff, or at least know where to find it.