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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Tracker, probably connected to the light switch as a power source.
  2. Interesting reading... Ok, so if you get the same, I'd say that the sensors are reading fine. The teeth count same, so that rules out crank sensor. The number of teeth will obviously change as the cam moves, which isn't happening. Hey, I wonder if the oil gallery is blocked, so no pressure is going into the control valves...?
  3. if it goes up and down the same speed as the drivers door, then follow @Rich 's advice. If it kinda slows down just before stopping, it could be nothing more than the glass felt tracks need some silicone oil spray lube. That often helps. If you've had it in pieces, you'll see that there's not much that can go wrong- if all the plastic bits are ok.
  4. Once you have a good cover, I'd personally use the old plastigauge method of checking the bearing endfloat. I suspect that a few of the boxes were simply assembled too tight, so they go with a bit of extra force. Then once you know the clearance (if any), you could shim out the entire cover by say 0.05 or 0.1mm. It's a wierd failure mode.
  5. There's a 1L in A1 breakers in Winnersh area. I think it's been pretty much stripped given how scarce Lupos are down here, but the wings were still on, so the clips might be still there. I don't have a single one that's not on a car. I think I've seen them on ebay for a few quid. Might be worth a bit of research time...?
  6. I don't have a GTI... but would post a screen shot of the numbers if i did. Am very curious to get to the bottom of this fault.
  7. The only thing that I do like about the vdub FSI direct gasoline injection engines is that you can play with the injection after first ignition. So ignite a lean mix, then as it's burning out, chuck another pulse of fuel in well after TDC to give loads of torque. But at high revs, you run out of injection time like on a diesel. And you have to have a special circuit to run the 60v injectors. And because there's no fuel wash on the back of the inlet valves, like you say they all coke up. All those sticky blow by gases congealing everywhere and never getting cleaned off... I dunno. Why did vdub do it. It didn't gain them any more power or efficiency. And emissions actually got worse.... And reduced reliability.
  8. Actually.... did you know that when running high compression (13:1), with water and methanol injection to slow down the burn rate/flame front, the emulsion you get in the induction mix actually cleans all the deposits off. So when you strip the engine it's all nice and shiny. Inlet valves that look brand new. Clean piston crowns. Thinking about it- what is that stuff @Rich that vdub recommend to decoke the inlets on the FSI engines? You spray it into the inlet while idling... what a crap design.
  9. Yeah, the end thrust force has popped it. I think it's magnesium, so specialist needed to TIG it. Then remachine it all. Time consuming for sure. Depending on the internals and how much oil is left, the inners may still be ok (but I doubt it). I'd look for a new cover. Cheaper. Either way you need to remove the cover/end section. Could do it in place but, I'd pull the box.
  10. Yeah, what @Rich said. I find the trick is to use a hot air gun (hair dryer) on the wing where the two clips are. Then when very warm (not paint blistering hot), spray some silicone oil into the seam, to try and get it to penetrate into the two clips. Then it simply pulls/pops apart. In the past I used to keep breaking the things, as I don't think that it's possible to separate the front panel from the wing without divine intervention... Not the best design.
  11. Drain the system. Flush it and then run with a couple of dishwasher tablets in. The whole of the inside of the cooling system comes up like new again. Good trick especially after a HG... Then rinse and rinse and rinse (easier with thermostat out), and refill with the good stuff and deionised water. Lovely again. If you have any crusty stuff inside the header tank, remove it and fill with concentrated concrete cleaner acid and leave it to soak overnight. Then rinse well. All nice, white and translucent again. Refit using some silicone lube on all the rubber seals and joins. No pink tide marks!
  12. If you clear the faults, rev the engine to say 3000, then switch off for a second and then switch on again (so no cranking, but engine will restart), does that action of cycling it trigger the fault like when cranking?
  13. Very nice! 👍🏻 You still have a genuine main dealer service sticker in the window. Neat. Welcome to CL
  14. I've just read the guide... as a refresher... why??? I 'must' be bored. Anyway, I think the culprit is the G40 sensor, or the plug or the cable/connection to it. I reckon the sensor is probably ok, but something happens when you crank it. Could be something shaking or loose? Could even be the crank sensor, but very unlikely.
  15. It's described in one of these self study programmes... can't remember which one though. This is page 1: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/index2_eng.php late edit: it's on ...index3... near the bottom.
  16. mk2


    Hello. Pics please welcome to club Lupo!
  17. Just an afterthought- is the adjustment system a closed control loop? What I mean is, for example; when the ECU dials in say 3 degrees of advance, does it measure how much the actuator has moved and then tweak it a bit to get it exactly right? Or is it open loop where it dials in the 3 degrees then expects it to be there without checking where it is? I may have just answered my own question judging by your error messages.... (it's closed loop).
  18. Ideally, you need to see what the ECU is seeing on a car without a problem, and then compare their results with your's. The tell tale to me is that once you've cleared any faults after it's been started, the ECU isn't trying to move the cam. Now, is that normal, or is it normal for it to move it? I don't know. So, if the ECU usually moves the cam (without clearing the faults after starting) perhaps it moves it too far (or not enough)? Why? But, if it doesn't usually move the cam, why is it moving it? Anyone reading this must think this is complete gibberish 🙄 I still have a hunch that somewhere the timing is out; the ECU is picking up the discrepancy and trying to correct it. Or a sensor is in the wrong fitting position, making it look like the timing is out. I don't think it's a wiring fault. I also don't think it's a mechanical fault.
  19. Ooh, that pic does it for me... i wish mine looked that good. Mmmm.
  20. Any tricks to clean the insides? Looks good BTW.
  21. I'm convinced that Lupos are going the way of Mk2 golfs... Ever more desirable as they become rarer and rarer. Even in breakers' yards Lupos are a rare sight now. Be nice to see one of the first Lupos in the UK go to a good home again. My fav colour too.
  22. No easy way... You may need to pull out the blower motor and get in there with a vacuum cleaner. You could have a look if you can see anything via the pollen filter holder (removed first). If the bits are downwind of the heater matrix and are already in the ducts, you might be able to blow them back down into the foot vents and then out with the blower motor. Careful use of the air direction control will help Try a cold hair dryer first. Then compressed air if no luck.
  23. Yeah, I'll second @Rich. I'd only do the pedalbox if the clutch is creaking or is visibly lower in the rest position than the brake pedal. I would do a gearbox oil flush. And any loose gear linkages. And perhaps the gearbox selector shaft seal.
  24. I don't think that it's a wiring fault. The fault doesn't show up till after the engine has been started. The ECU runs through a very thorough check of plausable sensor values, bus currents and open circuit type scenarios before moving on to normal running. If there were a wiring or sensor fault, it'd flag before the engine was started. I have a gut feeling that it is timing related. But what exactly is slightly out, is the question... I wonder if a timing sensor is picking up interference from somewhere (really, a stab in the dark now!). Tried disconnecting the alternator? Dodgy (electrically noisy) fuel pump?
  25. Yeah I tried to find the part number for you. Looks like they don't come separately. Might be an ebay jobbie or chance it down ECP or GSF? I think it's M12 but you'll need to check. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261863096082
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