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James_VW

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Everything posted by James_VW

  1. James_VW
    Really simple. Jack up. Axle stands. 2 bolts at back 3 bolts at ball joint (Best to replace with new bolts and lock washer as get really rusty and crap) 1 nut for drop link Ensure when refitting the bolts at back they are threaded properly as they are captive nuts and are a huge hassle if stripped etc. I would just replace the whole wishbone much simpler and takes less time
  2. James_VW
    Back of wishbone (Vertical bolt M12) = 70NM and further 180 - Renew after removing Front of wishbone (Horizontal M10) = 50NM and further 180 - Renew after removing 3x Ball joint bolts = 20NM and further 90 - Renew after removing I got these from Elsawin for a sport model but all use same wishbones Lots of people say FT but I prefer torque settings for parts like these, especially if they have captive nuts like they do. Hope that helps
  3. James_VW
    Also available here for GTI https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/audi/s1/copy-of-powerflex-lower-engine-mount-bush-pff85-620/
  4. James_VW
    The plastic bleeder is knackered and is being a pain to bleed. I would rather replace it as doing clutch and gearbox as well so would rather do it all in one go then 'maybe' failing few thousands miles later... This is the standard one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-for-VW-LUPO-1-6-00-05-GTI-AVY-Sachs-Genuine-Hatchback-/401261124649?fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item5d6d06dc29:g:FDAAAOSw5cNYesT7 I've found a similar looking one made from aluminium from a polo... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-POLO-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-2001-on-VOLKSWAGEN-3237-LPR-Quality-Replacement-/331976562870?fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item4d4b5858b6:g:-hAAAOSwhQhY6eq6 or something like this one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-MK2-MK3-G60-Passat-Polo-T4-Transporter-Gearbox-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-/161760918611?hash=item25a9b3bc53:g:CM0AAOSwHnFVpOHl The input line is a different location so maybe make a braided line for it?
  5. James_VW
    I can only find plastic clutch Slave cylinders for the GTI? Is there any other options from other vehicles to use? Reason I would like to change is I don't like the plastic bleeder valve and i feel plastic is cheaper and not as durable as metal?
  6. James_VW
    Electrical - replacing the door loom is really quite simple. I used a lupo sport loom (with electric mirrors) which seems fine. I would probably also get the multimeter out and check the other features which aren't working
  7. James_VW
    So... I actually had to adjust B even tough i never adjusted it in the first place! Read a few things online saying you need a specific tool. But there was also a guide saying undo both nuts and put gear stick between 1 and 2 and tighten bolts. It actually worked first time all back together and working once again
  8. James_VW
    This shows it better, B wasn't adjusted. A had to removed, I'm assuming i just need to adjust this some to get 1st back?
  9. James_VW
    Hi thanks for the replies! Had the car up early, turned out the gearbox linkage that attaches to the box had snapped next to one of the bolts. Only problem now is I don't have first gear. I hadn't touched the bolt in the picture that was just swapped over. I had to remove the other one with like a square bolt. Is it a case of just adjusting that? Cheers
  10. James_VW
    Linkages are at the bottom at the back of box on standard lupo compared to the gti which are on top. I'm hoping just something's got lose
  11. James_VW
    So i was just nipping out... Then selecting gears went all wired.. First gear is in reverse and first, reverse apparently doesn't exist, 3rd and 4th seem to be correct... The gearstick is really lose and doesn't follow the standard pattern? I can almost get a 6th gear... I haven't jacked up and had a look yet, just seeing if anybody's got any ideas... I don't believe it's the box, no whining, no grinding, no crunching...
  12. James_VW
    great thread Never thought of heating up the eye bolts,will bare that in mind!
  13. James_VW
    Thanks Yes was trapped, cut through the cable and managed to release it. (Can't see it working its way up there, someone must have removed the beam and it got snagged then ?) 2 new handbrake cables and it's all good again ?
  14. James_VW
    Struggling with the driver's side handbrake cable, can't seem to get it out between the chassis and rear beam. Has the chassis bent? Has someone trapped it if changing the rear beam? Is it normal?
  15. James_VW
    As we all know the GTI spoiler is a bad design and allows water in which then causes paint blistering... What is the best way to seal it all back up? Light - The OEM gaskets obviously fail and I dont believe they can be bought individually as no part number is on ETKA... I purchased a BMW E36 gasket to see if that would work but isn't the best of fits... What could I replace it with? Clear silicone? Foam Tape? The light does need to be able to come apart down the road again... Spoiler - As standard there is foam tape, Should this just be replaced or is there a better substitute? again silicone of some sort?
  16. James_VW
    I've seen one on German eBay not sure if correct side mind you... You'd have to check because of left/right hand side drive etc... http://www.ebay.de/itm/172294392412
  17. James_VW
    Hmm will have to try to find a cheap headlight, see if they look about reyt then give a go if so... Nah already got a good pair, I feel like those headlights are yours, you seem to be trying to sell them
  18. James_VW
    Ok so I know you cant bake the GTI headlights to split them due to the sealant unlike the normal ones... So my question is can normal headlight lenses fit the GTi headlights? (just the front clear plastic) If i could manually remove the lense from the GTI by dremel etc would a normal lenses fit? PS... The GTI headlight casing is dead anyways (crash damage, cracked lense, no tabs,)
  19. James_VW
    I will have a check... Forgot to mention it idles normally when up to temperature, could an air leak still cause this?
  20. James_VW
    When i first bought the car it would idle at around 500rpm and would fluctuate up and down... I replaced the temperature sensor, spark plugs, throttle body(used/part worn) and cleaned the throttle body... But this didn't change anything it still hunted at idle... Then around 4 months ago it just mysteriously idled properly (the car had somehow fixed its self!? But now the exact same problem has returned Any ideas? (The car being lupo AFK cable throttle)
  21. James_VW
    I'm thinking from your description a CV joint... It will probably quit on breaking as there will be tension on the ball bearings so no rumbling Does it seem worse on cornering? It may have happened due to the hub nut being lose so allowing more movement in the joint. Might be best to check a YouTube video on how to test a CV joint. But thats just my guess
  22. James_VW
    How did you clean off the rubber gunge? I got some off but gave up in the end...
  23. James_VW
    Probs around £40
  24. James_VW
    Rear - I pop them under the beam Front - under the subframe, were the wishbones connect (but not the actual wishbone)
  25. James_VW
    I'm after some new h4 headlight bulbs... Just wondering if anybody has any reviews/experience with them. Found some led type ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252508998726 And these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301875491080 Not bothered about xenon's type styles as would be illegal
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