stator

Oh dear, trying to reassemble the lock mechanism inside the door is a nightmare, most fiddly impossible thing I've ever had to do. Is the metal collar ring still in place? Do you know exactly how the lock mechanism works? What I found really useful was when I had a complete spare lock and handle that I could play about with outside the door and disassemble and reassemble just to understand exactly how it all worked and fitted together. I eventually managed to get everything back together inside the door but it took hours of fiddling and dropping things. My main problem was getting the collar ring back on, that's the bit that turns when you turn the screw. The biggest problem is that you can't see what you are doing and don't have enough hands. If you had someone to help you buy doing the screw bit whilst you hold the bits inside the door that might help. If you need any photos of the lock mechanism just say and I'll put some up.

Looks like it's an issue with IPBoard: http://peter.upfold.org.uk/blog/2013/01/15/cleaning-up-the-ip-board-url4short-mess/

That's the HTTP log, looks like it is definitely coming from clublupo

I've just started getting AVG warnings when it opens too.

Anyone else noticed this lately? If you're googling something Lupo related and one of the results is from Club Lupo, you click on the link (I use middle button to open in a new tab) but the window always opens a URL Shortening page instead! If you go back and click again you get the correct page. It only seems to affect Club Lupo, puzzling

If it's the front wheel arch, replace the wing panel and get the whole panel resprayed as close a match as you can. If it's the rear wheel arch Take the rust off and and paint over then place some kind of plastic arch protector over the top. Paint the sill protector the same colour as the car if you wish and it wouldn't look too bad. But if you try to just paint and blend into the rear panel I doubt it will work.

Get the USB cable from eBay and download the free version of the VCDS software. Use the guides on these forums to set it up and it should clear the codes for you Or post your location and see if there is anyone near you.

Have you tried taking the new tweeters apart? The ones I bought you could take out of their metal casing, then take off the plastic casing and what was left would fit in the OEM tweeter container nicely

Have you checked under the bonnet for an actual owl?

Make sure you consider where the crossover will go if you replace the tweeters.

Well I hooked it up and to my relief the speakers still work, despite my clumsiness. The annoying sSs sound is gone, but there's a slightly annoying T sound, not sure if it's the speakers, the cd player or my wiring There's also a wierd resonnance on one particular note, no idea what's causing it Haven't fitted everything properly though, once all the bits arrive hopefully I can reduce the number of connectors between the cd player and the speakers. Still I think it's better than the old one

Well I've never had those adapters myself but it looks like it should fit and it does say it's for the Lupo, so should work. There are no differences in the door speakers for the standard models. There might be for GTI or 3L.

You might find the halfords one is too deep to fit, see the threads below: http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/90834-lexy-my-red-14-s-lupo/ http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/8062-how-to-install-aftermarket-front-speakers/ http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/77547-new-speakers-foul-door-cards/ You can always try and bodge something yourself. Depending on the speakers you could just fix them straight to the metal door frame, using some sort of cushioning in between, like rubber draft excluder

Managed to pull the new tweeter cables without taking the lower dash off, so that was slightly less painful than expected. New tweeters are fitted but not connected to anything yet. Main speakers waiting to be dremeled so they can fit over the pins (holes slightly too small). Tomorrow hopefully some new connectors will arrive and I can replace the above ISO loom hack job with something a bit simpler, putting the ISO connector directly onto the bypass cables. I've found the bypass boxes will fit in the gaps between the outside of the DIN cage and the dash plastic, so that's one less thing to worry about. Hope this all works in the end :|

Stupid thing has come with a combi bypass so the door speaker and the tweeter connect to the same box, but on the Lupo the part where the tweeter and speaker join together is a loom behind the dash, so now I've got to run a new cable from the DIN area to each of the tweeters. Going to have to take the lower dash off today to thread the stupid cable. Meanwhile I managed to break the connectors on one of the tweeters whilst I was taking it apart to fit it in the OEM mount, so had to solder that back together, I've probably knackered it since I have the soldering skills of a blind elephant. Also broken two ISO looms so far Then I've got to fit this stupid thing in the back of the DIN area. This is turning out to be a huge pain the ass, wish I hadn't bothered.

Well this has been a complete disaster. I really need to stop trying to do things, I always make a mess of them.

Thanks, have you tried any aftermarket tweeters?

Hi All I am in the lucky possession of a gift card that I can use in Hellfords but no other shops that sell car audio equipment. I thought I might try to finally sort the annoying tweeter lisp that I get from the stock VW speakers. The main VW Speakers are fine for my use, it's just the tweeters that have an annoying hissy sound when someone sings an sssssssssssss So my options are to replace the main speakers and tweeters, replace just the tweeters or take both out and put in a single coaxial type speaker. I'd prefer to have tweeters to avoid the sound coming from the footwell, but I don't know if you can get any decent ones, or if they will all have a crap sound. My budget is ideally about £50, I know that won't get me much, but I just want to fix the annoying hiss. This is one option: http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/sound-systems/vibe-slick-6-component-speakers Do you think they would be better than the stock speakers? Does anyone have ideas? I know Hellfords isn't the best shop to be using but essentially it's a free present

I'm a rebel so I use thick coats instead, you just need a lot of practice. If you do thin coats you end up with a bumpy finish you have to keep smoothing down. However there is a brief period where you can stop spraying once the spots join up and you end up with a whole smooth coat and no run marks. If you keep going for a second too long you end up with run marks. Two coats of primer, two coats of paint and two coats of lacquer. The hardest part is getting a dust free environment. If you do it on a summer day you'll end up with all sorts of polllen, seed heads and dust sticking to the car. If you can take the parts off and paint them indoors it helps, but then you have to worry about no killing yourself with the fumes. I've never done a whole car though, just a rear bumper, mine had faded to pink so didn't have much to lose either.

I colour coded the grab handle, think it looks quite good

Unlikely if your car is already 15 years old My last Fiesta the brand new battery lasted 2 weeks because I had to scrap the car. Wish I'd kept the old battery to scrap it with

15W is a little thick. Most cars it's either 5W30 or 10W40 Use a semi-synthetic or synthetic depending on how much money you like wasting. Don't use mineral For old cars it's not such a big deal, rust will usually be the major problem rather than oil, either of the two above would usually do. But if it burns oil on 5W30 then switch to 10W40 and it might stop.

This may be a silly question, but did you fully charge the battery with an external charger before you put it in the car?

Sport and GTI bumpers have a center exhaust, I don't know about custom stuff.