jpsh120

Hi folks, My wife's new car is due to arrive before the end of this month which means the Arosa will be up for sale. Thought I would put it on here before going to the bay of E! It is a 2001 Y Reg with just under 80k on the clock. In good condition generally but like all 14 year olds has a few marks! She has owned it for 2.5 years and used it to get to work and do shopping etc. There is a pack of receipts and invoices up to Nov 2012 when we bought it, I have serviced it since then. MOT is due Nov 2015. Bodywork is pretty good, a few blemishes but nothing serious and no sign of rust anywhere. Interior is good, seats have no bolster wear and are nice and supportive. Wheels are original and have matching firestone tyres. Known faults; Drivers side window does not work. Needs a new regulator, I just haven't had time to do it. Rear screen washer does not work - the wiper works as it should but no squirter! Problem somewhere with the temp gauge. It works but is very slow. Heater is good and gets to temp quickly but the gauge is slow to read. I'm guessing it is the sender but again, I've not had chance to investigate. The engine also burns a little oil. I wouldn't class this as a fault, it is fairly common with VW 16v engines in my experience. Happy to answer any questions. Will try to get some more photo's up too.

Strangely the remote has started working again without me doing anything. Perhaps there is something internal on the lock that is sticking?

Did the new lock cure the problem?

I'm assuming this is related to the door lock switch but wanted to check before taking anything apart. Remote no longer locks the car but will unlock OK and the interior light stays on with doors shut. I believe the issue is with the drivers door. Any advice welcome. Thanks.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but does replacement of just the worn cog fix the window problems? Looking to fix the O/S window in the wife's Arosa. Window used to work with an occasional fault whereby the window would wind down half way up after pressing the one touch button to close. Now it doesn't do anything, switch is fine and I can hear clicking inside the door. I've been looking at replacement regulators and the repair kits on ebay, but curious to know if this is a possbile fix too?

I think you better invest in a car trailer!

In theory it is a fairly simple job, do a bit of a search and see what you can find, YouTube probably has some good guides. Worth getting an expert opinion first too before you go too far!

Bearings can be replaced on the layshaft, you hear the noise when the shaft is running "free". Engage a gear and that is no longer the case.

More likely to be gearbox related then, not thrust bearing - layshaft prime suspect.

You don't normally go in for the "visible underwear" look then??!! Car looks superb, big testament to your efforts and patience! And I'm afraid sh*t weather is something all of us have to learn to live with when driving our spotlessly clean cars! You will probably notice that as soon as you even think about taking it out the sky will darken, I know it does for me!

Does the noise stop when you put the clutch down?

Do a search for powder coating firms. There is one near me that don't advertise as wheel specialists but do the exact same process for £50 per wheel and the results are superb. Sadly not much use to you as I live in Somerset!

Where do you live?

That high temp is almost certain to flake and burn off, unless you've managed to find some that is any good. After all your hard work, it would be worth you getting it ceramic coated, looks better and it lasts!

Took some time today to fit this device to see if it made any difference and alas no. Assuming the power antenna feed from the head unit is suitable this thing made no difference at all. I think the aerial could be the culprit, not only does it look likeit h as seen better days, when I put my finger on the aerial socket on the head unit and turned myself into an aerial the reception was much better! Any other thoughts or advice welcome.

Does anyone know where the switch for the interior light is on a 2001 arosa? Passenger side works but not drivers and the headlight warning buzzer no longer works either.

I think 195/45 is the lowest profile you will find. What size tyreare you replacing?

Just to be sure, are we talking about one of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoleads-PC5-52-Amplified-Car-Aerial-Antenna-ISO-Adaptor-/400616116992?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item5d4694d300 It's listed as an amplifier but it looks identical to the picture I found when I googled 'signal separation filter'. Thanks again.

The car was purchased with the radio fitted so I need to check. I don't drive it very often but when I do, I usually want to be listening to Radio 5!

Thanks for the info, I've only just remembered to check back on here! So with the engine off, MW is just about audible, albeit with the constant humming in the background. If you operate a window then you get the sound of that electric motor through the speakers. And as per my last post, opening the tailgate eliminates all reception. FM reception is fine. I'll get a replacement aerial for starters and investigate this signal separation filter, I'm not sure what it looks like but I'll figure it out! Thanks again for the info and if I don't make any progress I'll see about posting a video.

It is humming/crackling that then buzzes when electrics are working. When you lift the tailgate any reception you had goes altogether. This is using an aftermarket radio with the OE bee sting aerial, its petrol engined. I'm considering a new aerial as it has seen better days and then maybe some supression if that doesn't work.

The radio reception when using MW is terrible and picks up interference from all electrical switches (windows etc) and it gets even worse when the tailgate is up. Is this a common problem that a new aerial will fix or something else??

The wife’s Arosa was in for MOT last week and a potentially dangerous issue was found. The rear brake pipes which are part flexi-part rigid can corrode on the ally section under the paint, they’re not easy to access and could be overlooked by less thorough MOT stations so one to be aware of. This is on a sport with rear discs, not sure if models with drum brakes are the same. The place I use had recently had a Passat in that had suffered brake failure on the motorway due to this – fortunately there was a happy ending.

Don't know if this is a common modification, but you might be better off using DCOE 40's. I have a classic car which is 1725cc and that runs twin 40's which are a bit OTT in terms of fuelling for the size of engine. Twin 45's on a 1600 would perhaps be even worse?!

Car looks superb, just a nice bit of modding without being OTT. The tints look good, those front tints are right on the legal limit I think??