durb

The way my mind works unfortunately, can tell you that it was a sunny tuesday in october 1995, driving OMP527K an orange mini with an austin 1100 lump on a mk2 mini box, and a 12g940 cylinder head. It was at the junction of the A37 and A371, and no I didn't stack it.... I remember pointless stuff like that easy as, but remembering what I went to the shops for I'm stuffed! Back on topic, I too am surprised by the variety of music on this thread, great tunes, keep them coming!

However I have to say that the following two have such awesome times associated with them for me (and in my opinion are top tunes) that I need to post them:- I start with this by the beatmasters However I have to say that listen to an awful lot of ska, so my top tune has to be:- Thanks for puttng up with me!! Cheers, Durb

Such a tough question, Really feeling Blockbuster and green onions! I would be betrayling my roots if I didnt suggest the song which was playing for my first ever overtake:- Cheers, Durb

fair enough bud, was just a thought - a split CV boot will splatter the inner arch and inside of the rim with black graphited grease. Left unattended it will eventually kill the joint - much more expensive than a simple boot replace. (dont wish to teach anyone to suck eggs, but could help someone in the future).

Just an observation, is that off the front of your car? and would that be grease on the rim? if so would have a look at your CV boot....

Undeclared mods - EPIC FAIL.

If you dont have access to a charger, it would be worth connecting the jumpleads with the GFs car running, and leaving it that way for say 15mins to charge your battery a bit before you start it to do your checks. It sounds as if the alternator is not charging the battery, and the battery has not got the charge in it to run the car. You could probably get enough charge in the battery to drive it to the garage like this. If you do get it running on its own, and there isnt a respectable voltage showing across the meter, then it would be worth checking the earth cables from the battery through to the alternator. Changing the battery is fairly simple, remove the terminals from the battery, undo the clamp and it should lift out. just remember to disconnect the negative first, and reconnect it last. this reduces the risk of shorting the battery with the spanner. also check you have the radio codes for any of the cars being disconnected... HTH Durb

you can just give the bearings a spray - where the shaft meets the casing. at each end. should be ok if you dont go too mad!

Fair enough, although it wouldn't be the first time for a brand new component to go bad. could try a little lube on the alternator bearings, a small squirt of something like plus gas or WD40 would change the noise and give you the diagnosis. Personally I would want to be sure of the source of the noise before doing many miles....

Does sound like bearing to me too, Need to identify the source - if is timing belt tensioner, then driving with it like it (or running the engine) wouldn't be a good idea... If the noise is from the offside area, I would suggest removing the alternator belt to see if it stops.

Somewhere between ft and vft it is then! Cheers gents!

As per title really, had a fruitless search on here and the web, so was wondering if anyone out there knew the correct tightening procedure for the driveshaft nut on a TDi? Cheers, Lloyd.

That would be good - its more a tool to see if you have a problem with 1 cylinder - if one of them is different to the rest then it would give you a good pointer. I should also mention that you should do this after the car has had a decent run, and then allowed to cool - if you start the car from cold then the extra fuel for the cold start can mask things...

as it is no longer smoking, is it just oil that was sat in the exhaust? Not being familiar with how much oil these engines use, how excessive is 250ml/100 miles? You say that the bottom end was checked by means of a compression test, and came back as ok. There are a few things I would check as a starter for 10, firstly is the breather clear - if it is blocked this can force oil past the rings due to crankcase presurisation. secondly, whip the plugs out - are they of a uniform colour, if the business end of one or more is covered with oil, then there is your sign... Reason for edit - re-read the oil consumption level quoted

Replied by text!

Does it have to be black - got a gunmetal silver Mk2 which I am thinking about selling...

Has it got to be a lupo? me and my mk2 ArosaTDi will probably be going our separate ways soon.... (due to me wanting a bit more room more than anything else)

Mine is a bit slow off the line-first almost seems too high to start with, but once above walking pace it never really struggles to keep up with anything within reason just got to remember to drive it like a diesel, and use all that lovely torque.... It is quite easy to find yourself doing naughty speeds....

Read you previous thread, was the engine smoking all the time or just on overun? Smoking all the time would point more to rings/bores rather than top end. Have you taken it for a run to get the exhaust hot to burn the oil out of it - sitting at idle may not be getting it hot enough? When you say that a compression test showed "what it should be" could you elaborate - was it done with the throttle wide open? were all the pressures even and up to spec? was the test repeated "wet" to verify the bores? Old school way of checking the bores is to add a little oil to the bore via the plug hole and repeat the test - if it leaps up then its a pointer towards bottom end wear. Did the bores "look" ok with the head off? Were all the pistons a uniform colour before decoking? Were the pistons decoked to the edge? if so this may take a few miles to "carbon in" and you may see an improvement with time. From the above I'm guessing that you didnt do the head rebuild, but do you know if the valves were replaced as well as the guides? were they checked for play before it was all put back together? Sorry to hit you with all these questions, but A bit more info may help people point you in the right direction. Lloyd

As a guess I would assume that the car is low, and lifting the engine and box would restore some sump/bellhousing to ground clearance. If it is that low, then lifting the box would probably put the shafts at a bit better angle too... If it is just sump to ground clearance, then it may be possible to cut the deep portion out, and fabricate a shorter wider one to maintain volume (got to do the pick up pipe too). that way the C of G of the engine stays lower.

Would have thought that disconnecting the wastegate would result in overboost, and hence fault codes etc. From membership of another forum (non-VAG) sometimes if the MAF is utterly buggered, then it can have the same effect as unplugging it. hence no change by unplugging. could it be faulty wiring to the MAF?

I know we are not VNT, however the following thread on another forum suggests it could be MAF. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=215165 Durb.

Thats the one! I was in the tatty green bug a little further down the entry track. Did you spot the porsche rimmed black type 34 in the show and shine - proper straight!!

Did go down, was in the bug though - may have been camping next door... is the lupo fitted with gti alloys and arosa rear lights by any chance?

Are they not bi-hex (i.e. 12 point), which will undo with a "normal" socket? - the correct size may need to be tapped on to clear off the paint? Gents can you confirm this? Someone out there must have taken off their tailgate!!!