Motormouth

I have recently fitted one of these and it was very easy, the only bit that doesn't work as it should is it won't switch on without the keys in the ignition and the unit is always dimmed. That doesn't bother us, I was going to try and make it work with canbus or buy an emulator but had a go first and were happy as it is. It looks ok and is very easy to use plus you don't have to carry your ipod around (unless you have an iphone of course) or a removable faceplate or worry about someone breaking in for your headunit. My gf just has a few cds with loads of mp3's on clipped behing the sunvisor. Its never going to be a top end head unit and only worth fitting if you get an mp3 one, depends what you want. Cost me about £20 for aerial adapter and iso quadlock adapter.

I don't know all the facts of this as in how long Mark was in Yorkshire for, maybe he's been there for a day or so but if he hasn't why would you arrange to meet someone in the afternoon and that same day travel all the way to Yorkshire from Elstree - must be 300 miles? and expect to get there and back in time, as someone has already said who knows what the traffic will be like. I wouldn't do it personally but maybe Mark had no choice? if I had to though I would make sure my phone was charged so I could contact people, it's not funny being messed about as anyone who has will know.

I needed one of these for mine, I tried loads of scrap yards and even if they did have one they didn't want to split it from the engine. I ended up buying a new one from the dealers which was about £30 which I didn't think was too bad as it included the heater. Also when I removed the old one (only needed another as mine had been cut back with a small breather filter fitted) what was remaining of mine was like elastic and it was starting to collapse so I would think most of them in scrap yards would be the same.

I just want to get to the connectors on the back of the clocks as I would think this is the easiest place to access the can bus wiring unless its easier to get to the ecu for it?

Had a good search on here but can't seem to find anything for how to remove the hoop or whatever its called that goes over the clocks on a GTi. Can it be removed without removing any other part of the dash? I have read there are just 2 screws, if thats correct how are these accessed?

Thanks john will have a look. James trying to fit the rcd200, nothing flash at the minute but the one I have runs on can bus think earlier ones didn't, if I can get this to work without buying an adapter might try and fit something better in the future. Suits the Lupo dash, plays mp3's and can't be arsed with having to detach a faceplate all the time. Figured the wiring now as long as I can find the can bus wires, obviously want to find them closest to the stereo and on a connecting block so I can join the wires there without cutting the loom. Has anyone got all the wiring diagrams for the Lupo GTi? Or if not just the pin identification for the ecu and convenience unit?

Does anyone know where other than to the dash panel insert the can bus wires run? I take it they go to the ecu but do they go to anything else, has the lupo got a central convenience unit like the golf? Where is the ecu on a lupo and does anyone have a wiring diagram for it? Just wondered where the can bus wires can be found easiest as it sounds a big job getting to the dash panel plug - is it?

Mark check your pm's please or if you can't reply/check pm's from your phone reply on here to let me know what is happening again?

Not totally sure but I would say yes, I don't think they have that bit on standard shocks actually attached to the shocker rod do they? isn't there a little spacer/collar in the bump stop or top mount? The little clip is there which is definitely needed.

Does anyone know the difference between can high can low and can high external can low external?

Thanks for the reassurance but Mark doesn't seem bothered otherwise he would have been in contact but he still hasn't. I don't think this is anything to do with slow dispatch as he said 2 weeks ago they were ready for collection by courier. I wouldn't call it slow I would call it taking the p**s.

Come on Mark still no pm, did you mean you would pm me next Friday night? When will I be getting what I am owed?

Lauryn sorry if it came across like I was having a go at you because I wasn't, I appreciate your comments as I didn't know the stuff about being logged on from your phone. nfbr I agree with you, whilst doing the deal pm's were replied to straight away since then there has been little or no contact unless I have chased Mark or wrote on this thread which is the last thing I wanted to do. I am a genuine person, I pay straight away and expect my parts as soon as possible within a week to two weeks max if there is a problem, is that too much to ask? At the moment I still have no idea when I will get the bits even though apparently they were ready to be sent 2 weeks ago.

I see what your saying Lauryn but the last time I had a pm was Monday and yes I have sent a lot of pm's to Mark but only because I want my parts, I have bought loads of things off people on this forum lately and not had to send other members loads of emails, Mark said he would pm me last night and still no pm up to now, just out of interest how long do people think is an acceptable time for parts when a deal has been done or what would you be happy with - 6 weeks seem fair to you?

Fair point Lauryn I didn't know that, but if you knew someone was waiting for something off you wouldn't you keep them informed and make the effort to reply to pm's regularly?

Thanks for that, I will have ago.

Ok John cheers, I suppose if I just knew where the can-bus wires ran if there are some then I could try and splice into them and try it out. I think there are normally 2 orange wires and are twisted together?

If I can arrange a courier for Monday thats fine, can't see why I shouldn't be able to as you said they were ready for collection almost 2 weeks ago.

No, i'm trying to get a later spec headunit to work that runs on can-bus. Won't the can-bus of the lupo work to switch the radio on/off which is what I need with the ignition or is it too basic? I have found some emulator/simulators/adapters whatever there called but the ones I have seen are about £100 which is too much.

I take it you haven't been on your laptop since Monday then? I hope you will be saying I can arrange a courier for Monday and no later.

Does anyone know if GTi's have can-bus or not, if they do is it from a certain year or all of them. If not does anyone know where I could get a can-bus emulator/simulator from, has anyone on here had any experience with one?

Mark I check my pm's every day and I have heard nothing from you since Monday, I have sent you 3 pm's since then, what is happening?

Thought I would resurrect this topic and ask everyone else on here if there waiting for anything off Mark, this seems to be the only way to comunicate with Mark after a deal has been done as he doesn't reply to pm's even though he is on here most of the time. I'm sure Mark is a sound bloke but I am getting a bit fed up now of still not having what I am owed or at least been told when I will have them.

Not 100% sure but think it is just supposed to warm the inlet air slightly as the blank tube under the engine cover is right over the exhaust manifold. Like I say not totally sure.

I've had 3 GTi's 2 with low miles not very old - was a few years ago!, and 1 with high miles which we own now so is a few years older than the others were and all 3 have been the same when cold - lumpy and what I would describe as jurky/kangarooing - very hard to drive smooth when cold. There was about 3 years between ownership of the first 2 and the one we have now and I noticed this car being the same the first time I drove it from cold. If VW has brought out some kind of 'fix' for this I would be like to know about it.